Showroom Blame73's 2DOF Seat Mover

Hi, I want to say this thread has been very useful as I'm also making a sim using cytron controllers, so thank you

I have a question on the code, I'm new to coding arduinos and just want to check / confirm something.
I am using MD20 controllers, which use the same 3 pins (PWM, DIR & GND) as your MD30. This means I only have connections to pins 2, 4, 6, 9, 10 & 11 on the arduino (for PWM & DIR). I want to configure pin 5, 7 and 8 as inputs / outputs to control an electronic brake on my motors, and status LED's.

I'm a bit confused looking at the code, see below. But it appears you might have pins 3, 5 and 7 wired? Or is this not the case?

Like I say, I'm new to coding arduinos and any help / clarification will be much apppreciated.
TIA

Hey,
I haven't wrote the original code, I only adapted it to work with my Cytron MD30C (and somebody's also using it with his MDDS30), anyway PIN 3, 5, 7 are used as second output pins for Motor H-Bridge 1, 2 and 3 (ie PortD bit position); you could of course adapt the code gettig rid of those and using those pins for your needs

(I'm not using those pins too)

Ahh perfect thanks for clearing that up!

Ok, here it is: v3 of my rig

• Rewired and resoldered from scratch (I had too much signal noise)
• Added pulleys (adding pulleys was one of the best upgrades ever for me, it stopped PSUs occasional tripping, being the position of the pots and the their range much more accurate)
• Diodes (KBPC5010 1000 V 50 A)
• Moved the two individual emergency stop buttons to one single button
• Moved the rig to the center of the room because I have a projector that I use when I'm tired of using VR, for arcade games or when someone wants to try the rig and can't use VR
• Because of the previous point I had to build a protection from the levers because I didn't want my daughter or anybody else got hurt by them
• Since I was building the box I moved the Arduino UNO from one of the Cytron's boxes (that I had built out of PC PSUs) to the back of the new box where is easily accessible in case of need. It was a pain in the a$$ doing it previously
• Moved butt shakers to the back of the seat and to the front of the pedals and added a dedicated switch
• Updated the code of the SMC3 Mode2 for my Cytron MD30C (grab it here)
• Last but not least... Thrustmaster T818. I wanted a direct drive steering wheel and since I already owns two Thrustmaters wheels for the T300 I opted for the T818; it delivers a constant 10 N⋅m of torque that's more than enough for me (I'm using it at 70% ingame gain)

Next steps: already ordered some WS2812B led strips for RPM Dash

A few more pics:

I modified the SMC3 code once again because the original pot scaler wasn't working in MODE2 with my Cytrons.
Now it does. Added... the linear scaler

Yes, the knob is a Fender Stratocaster knob (I had around)


Waiting for the WS2812B led strips to arrive I modified the code to have another couple of effects for showing RPMs; I'll show you as soon as I get the strips

Edit: temporally removed the attachment because I'm making some changes and adding the chance to use a TM1638 module to monitor ranges

This is the latest version of the SMC3 code I modified to work with my Cytron MD30C (I'm not the SMC3 author, I just modded it so that I could use it with my motor controller)

You can find more details of the previous changes and how to set up the MD30C here

In this version:

A note: I preferred slowering the motors down when inside the clipping zone instead of reversing motors direction, because reversing them was causing problems for me, like motors tripping or weird rebounds (i.e. if the target remains inside the clip zone, reverse force will take them out but being insede the clip zone motors go back in and so on...)

I'm linking this post in the previous ones

tip: if you're using a previous version that's (somehow) working fine for you... back it up!