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Adding traction loss to my static setup, hope I go faster.

Discussion in 'New users start here - FAQ' started by Randy Zimmer, Jul 12, 2021.

  1. Randy Zimmer

    Randy Zimmer New Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2021
    Messages:
    14
    Occupation:
    retired
    Location:
    buffalo, ny usa
    Balance:
    98Coins
    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    I have a hard time responding to the steering wheel feedback. It seems uneven and usually too late or too abrupt for me to react. I've raced and rallied for years and my brain is more in my butt than my head so that's my theory. I'm not too worried about making the simulation realistic, I just want feedback I'm used to for side grip and sliding. This frame is what I'm starting with. The difference is that I want to start out by using a whole electric steering rack, not just the motor. If it is too slow, I can remove the motor and use a bellcrank on the shaft like I've seen so many use. I also hope to decode the pinout on the built-in position sensors.

    Attached Files:

  2. Ads Master

    Ads Master

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  3. Randy Zimmer

    Randy Zimmer New Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2021
    Messages:
    14
    Occupation:
    retired
    Location:
    buffalo, ny usa
    Balance:
    98Coins
    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    I tried and tried to get SMC3 to recognize the existing sensors on both the smart rack and a Saturn motor. No luck at all with any combination of wires. A standard old 10K pot worked so I am using that. I welded an arm onto the smart motor and removed it from the rack. It packaged well using the input shaft as the driver and trimmed back the worm drive gear. I hope that wasn't a bad decision. A couple of 1" square tubes made a motor mount. I drilled into the floor and put four anchors in. Two for the front and two for the motor.

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
  4. Randy Zimmer

    Randy Zimmer New Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2021
    Messages:
    14
    Occupation:
    retired
    Location:
    buffalo, ny usa
    Balance:
    98Coins
    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    I have experience with using server power supplies so I ebay'd one for ~$40. 80A, 5, 9 and 12VDC output. It just takes a small jumper to get it to start up. I had a UNO and an H-bridge so I found an old 3d printer cover that was a perfect mount for the parts.

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
  5. Randy Zimmer

    Randy Zimmer New Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2021
    Messages:
    14
    Occupation:
    retired
    Location:
    buffalo, ny usa
    Balance:
    98Coins
    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    I drilled a hole in the shaft, took the soft plastic p\art out of a control knob and stuffed it into the hole. The pot fit nicely. I bent up some welding rod, attached it to the motor and soldered it to the pot.

    Attached Files:

  6. Randy Zimmer

    Randy Zimmer New Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2021
    Messages:
    14
    Occupation:
    retired
    Location:
    buffalo, ny usa
    Balance:
    98Coins
    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    I had an old "lazy Susan" bearing I'd bought 30 years ago, so I tried using it for the front pivot. It was just too weak to trust on it's own so I added some nylon sliders and a metal pivot to the front, bringing the chassis level to the skateboard wheels in the back. ($16 skateboard on Amazon supplied the trucks and wheels).

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
  7. Randy Zimmer

    Randy Zimmer New Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2021
    Messages:
    14
    Occupation:
    retired
    Location:
    buffalo, ny usa
    Balance:
    98Coins
    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    The motor chose a center I didn't plan on and I see no way to change it so I modified the arm. The tie rod ends came with the smart rack. The smart had an accident and the only way to replace an inner tie rod is with a complete replacement of the rack. It was given to me. I couldn't find a good way to use the complete rack so I took the motor off it. The tin for under the wheels was $21 in the "drop bin" at Metal Supermarket.

    Attached Files:

  8. Randy Zimmer

    Randy Zimmer New Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2021
    Messages:
    14
    Occupation:
    retired
    Location:
    buffalo, ny usa
    Balance:
    98Coins
    Ratings:
    +5 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    Looks like I'm ready to try to load SimTools and see what happens!

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
  9. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2014
    Messages:
    16,888
    Occupation:
    Innovative tech specialist for NGOs
    Location:
    St Helens, Tasmania, Australia
    Balance:
    122,662Coins
    Ratings:
    +9,683 / 47 / -2
    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK