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Simulated Wind using MonsterMoto and ArduinoUno

Discussion in 'SimTools compatible interfaces' started by SilentChill, May 15, 2015.

  1. 1/2 Acre

    1/2 Acre New Member

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    Great news! Thank you for letting me know!
  2. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    Can anyone who has this working with Dirt Rally please give me some feedback how to do it.:sos

    Every sim works except Dirt Rally. No idea what i'm doing wrong :(
  3. stevemontuno

    stevemontuno Active Member

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  4. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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  5. stevemontuno

    stevemontuno Active Member

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    @HoiHman Does the Game Dash work off a different UDP Port number to the Simtools port number ?Are you getting motion but no gamedash? ,,,,
  6. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    up

    Thx
    I"m pretty sure it"s set to the same Portnumber as simtools. Currently i"m using simtools for sim wind only. Will try again this weekend and report back
  7. stevemontuno

    stevemontuno Active Member

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    Yeah codemasters will only let you use 1 telemetry based device other than your wheel ,,,so if your using simvibe , dashmeterpro or a wheel rim that is connected by USB using fanaleds , etc,,,,, and then try to fire Simtools up it will use the UDP port of the other device ,,,

    If you want to do a quick test you can disconnect any other device (simvibe etc) and go into the Dirt Rally hardwaresettings ini and change the UDP port number to 4123 (its down near the bottom were it says motion and dbox) and then fire up the game and simtools should be working.
  8. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    Thanks for trying to help out.

    I did what you said and changed the ini to simtools only. Reinstalled the latest (1.3 plug-in) and repatched the game

    [​IMG]

    Checked the setting in game manager.

    [​IMG]Télécharger des photos

    Simdash starts but every digit in the dashes stay a zero.

    I can get my head around this. Could this be a plug-in related issue. All the other games work fine, i just can't get dirt rally to work with simdash.

    What am i missing here????
  9. stevemontuno

    stevemontuno Active Member

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    You could try a dirt rally integrity check on steam and then boot up and close the game and reinstall the DR plugin to simtools ,,
  10. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    Tried it but no luck.

    Could there be some specific setting in game engine that needs to be configured only for the Dirt Rally plugin in order to get simdash working?
    For all other sims i haven't adjusted anything in game engine. I just installed the plugin, patched the game and set the correct settings in simdash. Does Dirt Rally require a different approuch?
  11. stevemontuno

    stevemontuno Active Member

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    The only thing i can think of is maybe gamedash runs off a different UDP port number ,, @yobuddy will know ,, other than that i dunno.
  12. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    This trouble shooting should be in its own thread, hopefully the admins @Pit and @RaceRay can help with that.
  13. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    I will start a new thread @noorbeast and hope @Pit or @RaceRay can help me out. I've been trying to get this working for months now.

    I was looking around in the forum but i'm not sure in which section i have to start the topic. Could you point me in the right direction?


    Just to get a bit back on topic here's a picture of my "pimped seaflows" :)

    [​IMG]

    The seaflows are great, but at full power they are too uncomfortable to have them on all the time, especially in the winter. I'm very happy with the "math" option. At 0.3 they give a nice but comfortable breeze at acceptable sound levels.

    Now i can use them during nightly races. Setting the math back to 1.0 will be great for those hot summer days.
  14. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    Hi mate sorry meant to reply sooner. I will have a look at my settings and post them here for you when i get hime from work as gamedash works perfectly for me in Dirt.
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  15. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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  16. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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  17. T.m

    T.m New Member

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    I've done some work and think I had a breakthrough yesterday night.

    - MM not overheating anymore due to shottky diode + capacitors on back of the blowers. Think I don't even need heatsinks with two seaflo and 16kHz PWM, operating at 5% speed. Had it running like that for half an hour last night. No noticeable rise in temperature.
    - I attached a pwm library to the existing arduino code, so it is possible to dial in any frequency you want

    I hope some guys get to test and confirm.

    Until that you can follow in iracing forum -> hardware -> "iRacingFanboi (yet more DIY wind code)" to which I can't link directly because I lack the minimum number of posts.
  18. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    Sounds good I have mine running at 10khz on my RC motors to get rid of the whine and it works well. My temps do get hot at full power but heat sink and fan keep it under control I need lower AWG wire as that heats up way too much lol.

    Would be nice to carry on the conversation here to share what you have found especially if you are using my code ;)
  19. T.m

    T.m New Member

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    Well actually I took the iracingfanboicode arduino sketch as blueprint. But none of the control sketches differ much and aren't complicated to adapt to different environments. I'd just be more happy to engineer in one place and verify first, before spreading stuff out into public. But as wind sim guys who want to develop seem a bit rare...

    Heres the short story:

    I have two seaflo blowers which did stutter at 980 Hz PWM.



    First thought of faulty MM, faulty Arduino, then faulty blowers. Raising PWM frequency however eliminated the stutter. I thought of electrical noise/sparks and soldered capacitors to the back of the blowers, without much success. The MM drives have body diodes which should deal with the backfeed from the inductive fan load. So the shottky diode was the last thing I considered. But it also couldn't harm, since we run the blowers only in one direction anyway.

    And this was the outcome at 980 Hz PWM with capacitors and diode. You can clearly see it still sparking and tripping protection.



    However I noticed a huge difference in temperature of the MM and also the power supply (btw, ! watch power supply when MM is running hot !). Seems all blowers are backfeeding, causing trouble in the motor driver. Diode prevents that. It may not always be as vigorous like my blowers tripping MM protection. But it causes heat in the MM and additional switching losses.

    Beforehand, I thought I had to live with heat, so I planned a 140 mm x 140 mm case with a fan of that size on top. Just big enough to run two MM in single bridge mode. Since 31 kHz seemed a bit too high I aimed more for like 16 kHz to 20 kHz to eliminate coil whine. And that is possible if you include the pwm library from runnerup.

    It comes with a downside however. To mess with PWM on pin 5 and 6, timer 0 has to be messed with. This sacrifices pin 6 PWM. If you want your MM stacked ontop the arduino, you have to bridge pin 5->6 on the MM. Else only one fan gets PWM. What I noticed: The PWM on pin 5 is a bit off (10 Hz @ 1234 Hz output), but I don't worry about that. Think it's caused by disabling timer0 and therefore relying on the physical timekeeping properties of the arduino.

    I have code to run MM single bridge mode, using pins 9/10 as PWM output. No problems and PWM frequency spot on. So in case we sometime get to stereo blowers by telemetry, we can deliver different PWM, but dropping the ability to just stack the MM ontop of the arduino.

    ##This is only for testing purpose and if you are not in anyway experienced or don't want to experiment, I recommend to stick with the already tested arduino code for now.##

    To use it:
    1) Go to https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=117425.0 and get the latest library (Arduino PWM Frequency Library v_05.zip at this time)

    2) Unzip the Library, open Arduino editor, Sketch -> Include Library -> Add .ZIP Library and navigate to ./PWM/PWM.h of the unzipped library.

    3) Compile and upload iRacingBoiFanControl_TG.ino like usual.


    ##This is only for testing purpose and if you are not in anyway experienced or don't want to experiment, I recommend to stick with the already tested arduino code for now.##

    Attached Files:

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  20. T.m

    T.m New Member

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    Now for the wiring:

    Didn't do any calculations. I used non-polarised (!) ceramic capacitors (50V, 100 nF) and a shottky diode (SB1240, 40V, 12A).

    The purpose of the caps is just to smooth and filter the voltage. The shottky diode acts as a freewheeling diode. When the fan is switched off, it keeps running cause of it's rotating inertia and acts as a generator. The power, since it has to go somewhere, is fed back to the motor driver, which has builtin diodes for that matter. But they seem not suited for our intended purpose. So the shottky diode protects the motor driver, creating an easy pass for that generated power.

    2461789.jpg


    IMG_20170207_195404.jpg
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