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My first 2DOF full frame project, arduino, MM, Aluminium

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by JonBakhol, Apr 11, 2018.

  1. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, JRK
    Hi you all,

    First I like to introduce myself for a quick, " nice to meet you".

    I'm a 39 old Dutch guy who likes stuff about computers (of course), DIY projects, Race games, Beer, Fishing (real life) and a lot more. My girlfriend calls me a nerd/geek. I just call here a girl....they just don't understand (girls around here, sorry....I think you know more than me :))

    After racing with the DIRT series, GRID versions and Project cars'. I wanted something more. So I you-tubed a lot and made a analog (Arduino Pro Micro) Handbrake. And an (also Arduino driven) throttle/brake shaker with 12 volt DC motors (XBOX type).

    Of course this was all fun, especially the build off it. But again...it can be more than just a vibration under your feet.
    Bought myself a Oculus Rift (once had an DK2 version, so knew what to expect) and..yeh, this is what I expected....btw, nice driving, I never go back.

    Internet is BIG so it took me a wail to get to Xsimulators.....but then it started off. WTF?...DIY?....Arduino?....Racing Sim?
    I was hooked already, even I don't have the smallest motion in my seat.

    My first contact was with the shoulder mounted 2DOF of RACINGMAT and that's what I want start with. After hours of negotiating with a colleague/friend, (Pino pistolidas if you read this, you are a friendly colleague :cheers) we started to begin our journey.

    Attached Files:

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    Last edited: May 10, 2018
  2. Ads Master

    Ads Master

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  3. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, JRK
    First I made a small drawing for the thingy:

    Full Rig.jpg
    The base isn't done at this point but I want to keep myself to the angles saw in this thread.
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2018
  4. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, JRK
    My gettings until now for my first 2DOF:

    Motion:
    Wiper Motors (Peugeot Expert), ground isolated them with this thread.
    PSU: 12 V, 37A
    Feedback: Potentiometers x 2: 10K lineair
    PSU and Wipers.jpg

    Pivot:
    Got a front driven axle from a Peugeot 406 and cut off the part I need. (too long I know, but now it's easier to handle)
    Cleaned it with a lot of WD40 to get rid of the tick grease in/on it, and think that a nice layer of Teflon spray will do the job. (tape is there so I don't get my hands dirty :))
    U Joint.jpg

    Construction:
    Calculated a little and think that 30x30x2 mm Aluminium will do the job. So my total rig will be of Alu.
    Because I don't have a TIG welding machine, and I want to keep it dismountable, I make the bracing of 80x4 Alu also.
    Aluminium.jpg

    And then the obvious stuff:
    I have got an G27, so that will do fine.
    And the seat I take from my existing setup (disassembled at this point).
    Without the cat of course. (or she wants to take a ride with me :grin)

    Seat.jpg

    Electronics:
    Arduino Uno, still waiting for it (already got 1 for my vib in paddles, but will get a second)
    Moto Monster Board (China made, I know...but it's my first 2DOF, can upgrade always.)

    Weight:
    All The Alu showed in the picture is 5,9 Kg
    The Seat is 13,8 Kg
    Nuts and bolts maybe 1,5 Kg?
    (Cat = 3Kg)
    Total =21,2 Kg
    Myself = 73 Kg

    Now the question(s):
    Will it work?

    If you out there have any comments/questions which will help me to draw out the beginner faults, you are very welcome.
    Well at this point I don't have anything to add. You (but mostly me) have to wait for the update.
    Have a nice ride.
    Greets
    Jon
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    Last edited: Apr 14, 2018
  5. FargusFaustmeister

    FargusFaustmeister Member

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    Wow, lots of preliminary work done here; well done! I wish I could say something inspiring in dutch but all I know is "lecher" which isn't really that applicable to mosim ;)


    I think you're probably going to be just fine with the alu you've specified. Honestly it comes down to rigidity and as you've stated already you can always upgrade. Only problem that I can see would be pivot that you got. Because it is a nice looking ball-joint jobby you won't have anything to keep your seat from rotating; this is a problem because the chair will rotate off the axes you design for and a) get out of sync with the game output and b) probably wreck all your s**t ;) I'd recommend finding a universal joint because they only permit movement in two axes, X and Y as it were.


    As for your question "will it work" I feel safe saying yes it will work!! Good luck my friend.
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  6. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Hi FargusFaustmeister,

    The pivot chosen is an drive shaft. It looks like a ball-joint, it can go every direction front/back, left/right . But the 2 parts can't rotate in respect to each other. I think this is what I need?
    Please let me know your thoughts.

    Bye for now
  7. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    You will have problems with the CV joint allowing tortional twist and you would need a panhard bar run diagonally between the top and bottom frame to control it.

    A universal joint will prevent tortional twist so it's an easier, more compact and hence more common fix.
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  8. FargusFaustmeister

    FargusFaustmeister Member

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    I'm not sure I see where the twisting will come from if the two sides of the joint are unable to rotate relative to each other. Wouldn't that be the main concern (other than compactness)?
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  9. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    If the joint allows lateral rotation, as opposed to a uni joint that will only allow movement in 2 axis then you will need to use a panhad style rod to control lateral twist.
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    Last edited: Apr 14, 2018
  10. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    @FargusFaustmeister and @noorbeast.....thanks a lot....:confused:

    I saw your reply like 03:00....after that I couldn't sleep.
    U-Joint vs CV-Joint.
    Torsional Twist in respect to lateral rotation.
    hmm 04:00....My COG changed with like 3 Kg. (cat on head)

    The first thing I did this morning was getting the bottom part of the CV-Joint in a vice (Like it will be welded to the base).
    And toke a miniature u-joint (for servo model) next to it.
    I tried to do all the motions simultaneous, I created all the movements the axes' could do.
    They seem to be the same.....I checked CV-joint vs U-Joint.
    Checked the dutch translation for " lateral rotation" and "tortional twist".....just to be sure.

    I got my big fat magic marker, a viltpin.
    And made a vertical line on the CV-Joint. :confused:;). ...We looked again...It's Friday.... It ended up in getting a U-joint from a BMW.
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    Last edited: Apr 15, 2018
  11. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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  12. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, JRK
    The height...40 cm, 30 maybe 20?

    Because I couldn't do any build this weekend , I tried to determinate the height of the top part of the 2DOF.
    So I draw myself the bottom-part of the rig. A lucky guess for the COG. And the MIN/ MAX angle for the total rig.

    A kind of surprise was that the height to the U-joint isn't that big.
    In this draw the height between bottom and main bar is just 15 cm, the bottom part is of 40 mm squire steel .

    The length of the main bar is a little shorter than my first drawing, 1400 mm instead of 1500 mm.

    3 photo's and a very annoying .gif

    Tomorrow starts the build.
    First getting the main bars under the seat, and the bars to the steering wheel.

    Hope to post some nice pics.

    Ride on,
    Bakhol

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 15, 2018
  13. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    Hi Noorbeast,

    At this point I do have an U-joint. But still can't understand the problem with an CV-Joint.
    Because of the fact that there is movement in 2 directions (the joint can't rotate)

    Like RACINGMAT uses. (pic attached)

    Can you explain in layman's terms?
    Many thanks

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 23, 2018
  14. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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  15. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Here I am again,

    Instead of only draw a bit in 3D Builder, I did some real work this week.
    First putting the 150 cm main bars under my seat.
    And I have to say that drilling the first hole into the Aluminium is quite....measuring....checking...measure again...
    But okay...off we go.....Here are the 2 main bars.
    [​IMG]

    After the 2 main bars, I check what height and distance the steering-wheel has to have. So I fixed it all together with a frame clamp. Just to get an indication.
    After that I checked the angle...hmm to my surprise it is like 45°....maybe 44° maybe 46°. So I keep it 45°.....just for the easy of it.
    [​IMG]

    Some plates to keep these pieces together. Luckily I decided the 45°...makes the cutting a lot easier.
    But then the drilling again.....:) 1 Wrong hole and the 2 pieces will have some space in between them. I drilled the 4 pieces in a stack It all went well.
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Hmm, again the 'checking and measuring' mode..I'm getting pretty good at this one. :)
    But okay, nu guts no glory....it seems to fit quite perfect.
    [​IMG]

    Just had enough time to check the bars for the steering-wheel and put a small reinforcement to it. (it's almost 22:00, so I'm quieting the day)
    [​IMG]

    Well....so far so good. Saturday I have some more time...So I try to get the mounting plate for the steering-wheel and the back side. Also with the same kind of plates I used on the fronts. But they have to be in an angle of like 10°. Will be quit interesting again.

    Hope that you have some inspiring comments to this.

    See you on Saturday/Sunday.

    Ride on,
    Bakhol

    Attached Files:

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    Last edited: Apr 20, 2018
  16. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Hi, with regards to U-joint vs CV joint.
    I guess that @RacingMat uses a "normal"CV joint which in general can rotate (where the wheel is connected).
    But he was welding the joint into his diagonal construction, so it cannot rotate but only move into 2 directions (pitch and roll).
    Are my assumptions right ?
    • Agree Agree x 1
  17. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    Good day you all,

    Like I mentioned, today I have a little more time to spent on the project.
    It was a harsh start because of a small hangover. But after a few cups of coffee I was alive ( well, I acted like so :))
    I brought my pedal set to integrate with the rig for the looks of it, but of course to get my COG correctly.
    The steering wheel and shifter will also be there in a while. (have to do it all by train, so I'm getting the set in pieces to my work)

    First I mounted the pedal-set to the rig, this wasn't figured out in my head exactly, so I had to do it in the progress of the work. I think it worked out quite okay.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Because of the fiddling out, it took more time than expected. (think it was still the hang-over.....but to be a little PC....it was the intriguing thinking process)

    Then the backside had my point of attention. Wanted to make a connecting bar between the ends, and put a nice plate onto it. Didn't thought a plate on the bottom was necessary , because there is no stress in this section from a pushing/ pulling rod or so. After a few minutes I hated myself because of all the sawing. This is been done all by hand, and the 80mm aluminium changed suddenly into a saw length of 113,13708mm (A2 + B2 = C2), luckily due to the 45° I only had to saw 3 times.
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Also there is a start on the vertical (almost) beams where the pushing/ pulling rod will be connected. They have a degree of 15° to the back, and a.....something about......also 15° degrees inwards. This was again an interesting saw job because of the 2 degrees. with a file i made them the same, but mirrored. (pictures will follow, but like in this drawing).
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Due to the fact that I'm not a religious person....tomorrow is another "building my own SIM day".
    I'm again a little pissed off at myself at this point, because I want to make the 6 (or 8) reinforcement plates for the back....saw....saw....saw....:mad:.

    I'm ending right now with a overview pic of my rig I have untill now, hope you like it.
    And with any comments or tips/tricks you may have, please feel welcome to inspire me with your knowledge.
    [​IMG]

    Ride on,
    Bakhol

    Attached Files:

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    Last edited: Aug 23, 2018
  18. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    Good day to you all,

    Small update this time, just had 3,5 hours to do some stuff.
    So I managed to get the back-plates sawed, and also put them on the rig. The angles used are 45° and 15°.....most likely.
    [​IMG]

    Drilled the holes into the plates and after that gave them a slap with a big hammer to get an accurate angle into them.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Before getting the COG, I first will try to slide my seat a few mm back to get the seat touching the bars, or forward to get an good position regarding to the steering wheel (there is a slide function in the seat...just have to remember/measure/mark it when I determinate the COG)

    Question:
    Do you think it is possible when the CV/U joint is welded to the seat and bottom frame.
    I can use the slide function for people who are heavier/ lighter than me? just to correct the COG. So that the wiper motors don't have too much load to move?
    Maybe I can put some marks on the slider with 70Kg-80Kg-90Kg? Not sure how that will work out. (I just get some people of the street with different weights to mark the COG at different loads :))

    Tomorrow I'll get the back-end finished. Put a bar on top just for the looks of it, and a bar at the height where the pushing/pulling rod will be.

    Please let me know your thoughts about the COG shifting

    Ride on,
    Bakhol

    Attached Files:

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  19. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    Hi you all,

    There is some light at the end of the tunnel...the backside is like finished. I put myself the top bar with the supporting plates onto the rig.
    I didn't thought it was necessary to double it up, so I only topped the back. Think it will do the job like this. And if not...I can always double them.
    [​IMG]

    As you can see, the 2 vertical bars are a little to long (also the bolts, but that's an other story). Not sure what to do with them, just push a plastic "stopper" into them, or cut them straight off....but then the stopper won't fit nicely?....problems...problems...problems...hmmm....it's okay like this....until now :).

    I'll expect to get 3 nice threaded ends, 8mm by 1 meter long.
    One is going to be at 2/3 on the back end, to connect both left and right rod end's.
    The other 2 I'm going to use to connect both the wiper joint's and rod end's.
    [​IMG]

    To get the stiffness into the rod's, I'm going to triple/quarter up the diameter with an Alu/Metal-tube, and fix them with 4 nuts and 2 big washers.
    Hope that this will score some "less weight points". But most important it put's the ' hard to bend' factor into it?.
    When they snap? While racing? With your VR and 4 point safety belt on?. You get into the hospital with an driving incident?

    But okay..that will be tomorrow.... So I got an half an hour left.
    I got a square piece of steel tube (100mm x 100mm x 2. and 68mm wide), I cut it on both ends, to get 2 times a 90° bracket, and drilled the holes into them.
    Four exact points to measure, and drill them like spot on, was an interesting half an hour.
    [​IMG]

    Result:
    [​IMG]
    The 2mm thick is a little to less for the stiffness, so I'am going to weld a small plate in the corner.
    But for now, I'm quit satisfied with the outcome.

    If you guys have any smart suggestions.....

    Ride on,
    Jon.

    Attached Files:

  20. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    He guys,

    Did a few different things at the time which are worth a small update.

    Got myself a nice piece of wood and threw my MM and Arduino on it, (attached the 2 pot meters, 10K linear) . And also the wiper motors got screwed down.
    After uploading the code from @RacingMat to the Arduino Uno, I got some movement. Nice...
    It's Alive!, Alive!
    Did a little search and I ended up with a great tutorial for a 2DOF. If you follow this one, nothing can go wrong
    SMC3 Arduino 3DOF Motor Driver and Windows Utilities
    I had to re-solder the pot's direction ;) And replacing MM #1. (nothing can go wrong...hmm....At least I got chicken)
    I got this.......
    First movement of the Wipers

    Okay....the electronics are into play. Let's give them a nice place to do it's thingy.
    An old computer power-supply with fan will do the job.

    At this point the MM is supported with 2 rubber grommets and is pressed down with 2 small screws.
    The heatsink is placed without cutting it, so diagonal was the best position.
    Some new heatsinks with build-in fans are on their way, let see if I can cut them into size to cover both chips.
    [​IMG]


    The topside:
    I ended the back end, I put some (4pcs) supporting plate of 30mm x 4mm aluminium next to the main bars.
    I was afraid that the thickness of only 2mm will wear out.

    As you can see the threaded end is a little under stress, maybe calibrate it or change it with 2 times a 8mm bolt. (let me hear your thoughts)
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Friday there was " Koningsdag/ Kingsday" in the Netherlands.
    That means everybody get there old shit outside and tries to sell it. Most of the time they throw it on a blanket, and ask crap for it.

    My footrest:
    It was an old laptop-stand (1 euro)
    [​IMG]


    The bottom frame:
    Pfff that's more like it, a little with the angle grinder, a little with the welding machine. Came to this. (Now going home to watch F1, nice going Red bull)
    [​IMG]

    Tomorrow I'll also end the bottom-frame...
    Fiddle out the motorshafts connection to the POT'S...
    Getting my COG...
    And I'm going to weld the...... CV joint ( the non rotating one :))
    @noorbeast @FargusFaustmeister @Arazok

    Almost there...

    Ride on,
    Bakhol

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    Last edited: Apr 30, 2018
  21. FargusFaustmeister

    FargusFaustmeister Member

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    Wow, that's a lot of updates! I think your idea of putting "weight markers" for adjusting COG is a great idea. My rig will have an adjusting seat too so thanks for the idea. I think most peoples' weight is set in the same place pretty much though so it may not make that much of a difference (ie. men's COG tends to be just below the navel, women's COG a bit lower than that) so the "forward/back" adjustment might not make a huge difference. Experiment might yield positive results though, who knows? Fun fact, you can find COG by hanging the whole rig and tracing a line from the hanging point straight to the ground. Google "find COG by hanging objects" and something'll come up I'm sure.

    Great idea to bolt your rig together; lightweight and plenty strong, easy to assembly. Also, GREAT idea cutting the square tube in half to make two 90 degree brackets. I'll be "borrowing" that idea for my own rig :)

    Keep it up, it looks great!
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