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Full Frame 2 DOF + Traction Loss new build

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Halloween2go, May 20, 2020.

  1. Halloween2go

    Halloween2go New Member Gold Contributor

    Dec 12, 2019
    +4 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, Arduino, Motion platform
    Hi all! Here is my new Rig so far. I am still in the process of building but wanted to post some of this and get some help with JRK 12v12’s I bought but here is a little background -So when the OCULUS CV1 came out, I bought one and that was all she wrote for my triple monitor setup. And things were great until I came across this forum. I finally decided I had to build one of these. I had several windshield wiper motors, Arduino UNO’s and some 10k pots from a guitar amp laying around from other projects and so I ordered some IBT-2’s and downloaded the software to see if I could get it to work. I decided to simply use an old 12V battery to power the motors for now.
    Yes, it seemed to work fine, so I read several posts and finally decided to design a RIG like AVENGA76 except make it a full frame. I figured the windshield wiper motors probably were going to be too weak so I ended up ordering the crab pot motors from ebay and hall effect POT’s from DIGI-key and a pack of 3/8” four link tie rod ends from amazon. IMG_1730.JPG So here's some photos start to now..
    Also, I bought one of those Harbor Freight 120amp flux core welders because I did not want to make it out of wood. One other handy item was an angle grinder with cut off and flap discs. The 1 ½ tubing came from Home depot, which was a lot more expensive at retail, than if I purchased the steel on line, but I was pretty excited to be doing something, rather than waiting for a shipment.
    It took a few weekends to weld up the seat frame and mid frame. It also took some time to mount the motors. After I got the seat mounted and temporarily positioned the Logitech driving force steering wheel and pedals (yeah I know.. they are pretty old), My wife started referring to this ever growing project as ‘my car’.
    Mid frame (which will have the motors mounted to it) and the seat frame welded up and used U joint I cut down with the angle grinder. IMG_0032.JPG
    In the beginning I found the relative center of gravity by sitting in the chair and temporarily positioning the wheel, pedal set and extra steel for the seat back while balancing everything on a wooden dowel. I'm pretty close to COG, and the seat is slightly adjustable rearward so I should be ok.
    I figured the seat might need some strengthening so I used 1 inch square to mock up the rear part of the seat frame. IMG_0229.JPG
    I added some thin gussets to handle flex and some tabs at the top of the seat frame to connect the Tie Rod ends. Although you think you can build something like this quickly, you probably can't or at least I could not. I only seem to have time to work on the Rig on Saturday's . This is about three weekends in.. IMG_0240.JPG
    The project started to take up some room in the garage.. I got some 'looks' from my wife after a while so i figured i should probably re-organize the garage to make it 'appear' we had more room than we actually do.
    But First things First, I needed to build a stable platform for the steering wheel. Note that I live in the USA so we get in and out of our cards on the left side, so I constructed one of the 1" square tube supports at an angle so that I can get IN and OUT of the Rig with no obstructions.
    Ok, The BIG motors (crab pot pullers from Canada) have not arrived yet, so I Mocked up the windshield wiper motors.. God, they look so small!! Anyway, it's Mid March now and the Pandemic has hit.. so I started ordering all my other parts to get this running.. Even though I have the IBT-2H bridges - I ordered three of them and somehow, China sent me SIX... Thanks for that anyway.. I did order two POLULU JRK 12V12 controllers to see how much better they would be than these IBT-2's
    When the 50:1 crab pot motors arrived, I tapped the hole with a 1/2 inch tap and a lot of oil. IMG_1327.JPG
    I used a 5 inch by 1/2 inch bolt to weld my 4 inch levers on and drilled out a hole in the end so that I could connect the 10k hall effect Pot to. IMG_1148.JPG The lever was welded to the end of the bolt, and then screwed into the tapped motor hole. IMG_1289.JPG
    Mocked up both motors.. Attempting to take some forum advice with a 5 degree outward angle.. IMG_1330.JPG
    I had to weld in an 'X' out of 1/2 inch square tubing to brace the motors as the mounts flexed a lot without it. Now it's rock solid. I also tilted the motors a bit inward so that that I could eliminate a lot of the Tie Rod end clearance issues. I have not really seen this done on the forum yet (but i have not read all posts !) It's just a way that i came up with to deal with clearance issues. IMG_1329.JPG
    A closer view of my work. The 'X' support and my 10 k hall effect pots. IMG_1342.JPG
    I inserted a large nail into the hole in the bolt, a section of tubing between the nail and the head of the 10k hall effect pot. The tubing, which i previously used in Halloween Animatronic pneumatic props seemed to work fine and should take up any issues between my 'drill press' hole and the mounting for the Pot. IMG_1344.JPG
    I made some small tabs to hold the Pot's.. They seem to work just fine!! So I decided to tear everything down and build a small holder to make it easier to fiddle with everything and the software. IMG_1345.JPG
    This is my 'test' platform for the motors so I could mess around with the Pots and everything along with the software so that I could have it all right at eye level.. instead of kneeling down on the concrete floor. Plus it allowed me to use my newly designed workbench.. +++ IMG_1519.JPG
    I gotta figure out how to post a video on this forum. I have videos of my motors moving along with the SMC3 software etc... Hope someone can let me know.
    Anyway, Here are the two IBT2 motor controllers, Arduino and my battery 'cut off' switch.. IMG_1521.JPG
    Side view of the motors and stuff. They are pretty strong when they are powered on even at 3/4 Pulse wavelength 180 and seem to capable of throwing me out of the Rig if when I put them over 220.
    I am running the motors off a used (mostly dead) truck battery.. it'can put out 12 volts for a couple laps and then it drops to about 10 volts.. I need to buy a new battery, and probably going to use a 'battery tender' 1 amp charger to keep it topped up. If anyone has used this type of arrangement, let me know. IMG_1520.JPG
    Here is a 'side view' before I started building the Traction Loss platform. IMG_1692.JPG
    Snapping a chalk line on the garage floor and using the carpenter square helped me get things about right. FYI, this is my first attempt at building, welding, drilling etc anything this wild, which will have to support me and not kill me.. so if I did something 'wrong' or weird, you can let me know but either way, it seems to work. ;) IMG_1700.JPG
    Here is the Traction loss frame.. without wheels. So now I had to mount the wheels etc.
    At some point in my life, I purchased eight skateboard wheels which I used to make a trac dolly for my Canon XL1s. Since I have not used that trac dolly in years, I unbolted the skateboard wheels (which have sealed precision bearings) and decided to mount them to the mid-frame. IMG_1712.JPG
    Here are the back four wheels. They look dirty because I was rolling them back and forth along the bare metal and freshly ground down tack welds.. Also the green thing is a bungy cord. I was watching a you tube video on sim racing and this guy recommended that if you connect these bungy cords to the back of your seat belts, when you slam on the brakes and the Rig tilts forward, you get a bonus sensation of the belts tightening up on you like it would in a real car. IMG_1732.JPG
    All eight wheels mounted.. And (aside from uploading any videos and my Oculus Rift headset not being recognized for some reason) At least the DOG is happy! So I have yet to build and mount my third motor - it's sitting in a box at the front of the Rig. BUT I just want to say that things are looking good so far. I am not sure what to do with the JRK 12V12's I have. They are sitting in a package waiting for me to do something with them.. Any help ?? Thanks for looking guys!!
    • Like Like x 1
  2. Ads Master

    Ads Master

    +0 / 0 / -0
  3. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

    Jul 13, 2014
    Innovative tech specialist for NGOs
    St Helens, Tasmania, Australia
    +8,879 / 43 / -2
    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    Nice work, thanks for sharing your project and completed rig :thumbs

    This is how you insert a video into a post: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/insert-a-video-into-a-post.257/

    You could sell the JRKs, as they are pretty expensive, but I would be tempted to either use the funds from their sale, or use them directly for telemetry driving your harness, or adding wind simulation.
  4. Halloween2go

    Halloween2go New Member Gold Contributor

    Dec 12, 2019
    +4 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, Arduino, Motion platform
    Well I bought the JRK's kind of because of you and Avenga.. They were about $70 each.. not a big deal especially cause they are just sitting on my bench .. I thought that they would be better than the IBT2's. I dont mind hooking them up if they will help these motors reach their potential.. I did not buy they Australian motion dynamics motors as this is my first project and shipping seemed higher than normal. So i would rather move over to those controllers if the gain, reliability or tune-ability is better than what I have now.
    Thanks for all your posts.. etc and your new project looks to be pretty dang nice!