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Question Blocking diode Information

Discussion in 'Electronic and hardware generally' started by Rav3n87, Oct 7, 2020.

  1. Rav3n87

    Rav3n87 Member

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    Hey everyone hopefully someone can help please,

    Have been reading up on putting a blocking diode between my battery and power supply, Problem is i have no idea what i need to buy lol

    I am using one Power supply @ 160A with a Battery that i cant seem to get an answer on what AH it should be roughly lol that is then connected to all 3 cytron md30c's that can draw 30A continously

    Would this work?

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-x-MOT...947266?hash=item2ae1bdee02:g:zLkAAOSw~bVeS-dW


    Thank you
  2. Ads Master

    Ads Master

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  3. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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  4. physke

    physke New Member Gold Contributor

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    The first one, a schottky diode would be better than the second (silicon diode) because it has a lower forward voltage (0.75v compared to 1.2v). Other options are VS-175BGQ030HF4 or DSS2X121-0045B (depending on the supply and battery voltage) from a reliable source like Mouser, Digikey, etc. If there are large amounts of current going thru the diode, you may need a heatsink on it.
  5. Rav3n87

    Rav3n87 Member

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    Awesome thanks for the replys, I will order the VS-175BGQ030HF4 from Mouser as that seems like the best option,

    Have you guys got any input on what would be a suitable Size/Type of battery that would be ok to put in between the power supply and the drivers? I cant seem to find any solid info, Even tried asking at jaycar and battery world but no one seems to be able to answer the question. definately would like to steer away from a simple lead acid one though as it will be inside.

    Thanks again
  6. physke

    physke New Member Gold Contributor

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    Do you know the voltage and current rating of the motor's you're using?
  7. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    Which is better is subjective. Honestly I don't know how much difference .27v makes in forward voltage. But the rectifier diodes, due to the package they are in, have heat sinking already. And out of the four diodes in it you only need to use two of them. So if one set burns out you still have another set you can use without replacing it. And you can put several in parallel with a battery in order to handle more current.
  8. physke

    physke New Member Gold Contributor

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    The difference is how much energy is wasted (as heat) and how much voltage is remaining after the diode. A 1.2V diode at 50A current draw would have to dissipate 60W of heat whereas the VS-175BGQ030HF4 (.52Vf) would be 26W. The voltage available after the 1.2Vf diode would be 10.8v (assuming the battery was 12v) compared to 11.48v with the 0.52Vf diode.
  9. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info but still subjective imo when everything is considered.
  10. Rav3n87

    Rav3n87 Member

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    @physke I'm currently trying to decide between 200w or 300w 12v units, Below is my current list of parts (i already have some of the bits)

    Parts:
    Power supply: Server unit, 12V 162A
    Diode:VS-175BGQ030HF4
    Battery:
    Motor Drivers: Md30c 30A (c) 80A (1sec)
    Motors: Either 90ZY-12-200w or 90ZY-12-300w
    Worm Gear unit: 50:1 reduction with 60rpm, 23nm @ 200w or 33.7nm @ 300W

    Cheers

    Edit:
    What i keep coming back too is the battery is only there to catch the regeneration, I have no plans to run the rig from the battery alone, the power supply is only going to keep the battery at 12v and amp draw should come from the power supply unless its a rather large spike
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2020
  11. Rav3n87

    Rav3n87 Member

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    hmm interesting read over here: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...r-supply-dps-2000bb-a.6709/page-4#post-128774

    I might not use a battery at all, i might just build a capacitor bank instead

    EDIT:

    more reading....

    @SeatTime posted an image back in 2016 of the motomonsters application information about them having a capacitor onboard to deal with this exact issue, in the note on that image is states

    "500uf per 10A load current is recommended"

    LINK:https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/kermit-kongs-6dof-project.8685/page-2#post-110134


    going by that statement wouldnt a single 10,000uf capacitor be capable of dealing with 200A?

    If thats the case then would this work?

    https://www.jaycar.com.au/10000uf-100vdc-electrolytic-rg-capacitor/p/RU6712
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2020
  12. physke

    physke New Member Gold Contributor

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    I was wondering about the need for the battery and was going to ask what plans or site you're working off for more info/context. Have since found the user manual for the MD30C where that recommendation is stated.

    Looks like that application note you mentioned is for a motor controller using a different driver chip (VNH2SP30-E). Noticed there are a couple of capacitors on the MD30C board already - what size are they? Have you tried contacting Cytron for more information about the "battery required with switching power supply" statement?
  13. Rav3n87

    Rav3n87 Member

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    very interesting! i didn't even give the capacitors on the board a thought! They are 1000uf 50v, It appears to have one on the input side and one on the output, No i haven't contacted them but that's a great idea!

    Thank you
  14. Rav3n87

    Rav3n87 Member

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  15. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    You could try with just diodes first and see what happens. I've never killed a power supply or driver but I use Sabertooth drivers.
  16. Rav3n87

    Rav3n87 Member

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    ok thanks,Would be great to get away from having a battery!

    i might pick one up just incase as they are quite cheap, can't hurt to be extra safe