Question 4 DOF Pivot point sim first build.

Hey Brains Trust.

Let me introduce myself, I am 36 work full time have 3 kids. Live between Sydney and Newcastle NSW Australia. Added location in case anyone live in area. Been looking at car building a Racing sim for a few years, reading threads and forums from the Shadows. Never starting my own project to now. I have seen the wealth of knowledge available here, read days of threads and forums. Never starting my own project to now. It will be a DIY budget build so please keep that in mind, In saying that when an upgraded components are recommend I will Upgrade. I dont have the Time to spend days trouble shooting MM's etc.
now even with reading all the information I can be confusing so below are the material I thought would work, happy to be told otherwise and directed down a different path. I have also Drawn a Cad drawing of the concept but unable to share until I have posted 3 times I believe so will upload when able. (not the best drawing but I am not a Pro CAD drafter.
After using the SimCalc, I believe the below would work for my build.

Motors: Worm gear ration around 25:1 to limit regen current issues. self holding as well
Power 200W
RPM 100
Torque 10Nm
Voltage 24V
Level arm 100-150mm
Positioned 800mm from the pivot point
I found NMRV040.80ZYT02M

Power supplies: Meanwell has I have had zero issues in the past.
Meanwell 350W 24V - (24 volt to limit current in circuit and interference)

Smarts:
Arduino R3

Motor drivers:
IBT-2 (BTS7960)
(have seen the Sabertooth but not sure if the added cost is worth it)

Potentiometer:
Haven't decided yet model - I did see a magnetic Pot setup but couldn't find the thread again to revisit that idea.

Anyway that is it for now.

Attachments - Purple high light area if for the front motors. - Like am not great at autocad. still learning.
the base layer I plan on bending 50x50mm 2mmwall square tube, still working out how and without spending thousands. I will be calling local Fabricators before build a DIY bender.

for the Yaw I plan on using tranfer bearing on the first layer nylon 45mm rated to 180KG each. 4 on the large arch and 2 on the smaller one. this will keep the rig as low as possible.

for the surge on top of layer 2 will be using linear rails with 6 HGH20CA bearing block

the U joint I have already purchased a tail shaft for Toyota town ace. $156au and has 2 U joint assemblies. Guess I will need to build a second. (Brother of the year Pending)

Right. Yes Traction loss, Thank you for the correction. With Surge. I thought that made it 4 dof?

I called Motion Dynamics last Friday about these exact motors. the issue is stock looks like next march, and I am not a fan of the shaft aswell (is it best just to weld the rod to these?). I read wiper motors are great but are slower in reverse and thought that would take away from the experience.

Thank you for the link to motor controller alternatives. (I will Start reading.)

thank you for providing direction around the pot. did you read about the magnetic pot in one of these threads? do you think that is more hassle then it is worth?

I was thinking of using 1 PSU per motor as well. Great to know one of the greats does the same.

Ibt-2 have a deserved bad reputation but they are so cheap. I have a rig that has been running the same 2 rbt-2 for 2 years without a snag. I think that the issue is half (or more) of them don’t work or work for briefly and quit. At $5 you can buy ten of them and still be under the cost of a better driver. I bought a well recommended 100 amp driver for like $50 and it died in five minutes with a dead short as it filled the role of a space heater.

So far I have sourced & bought:

motor controllers to try (2 for $55aud delivered). DC Motor Driver Module, Dual PWM DC Motor Driver Module, Replacement 9V‑30V 60A High Power H Bridge Motor Driver Module with Heat Sink : Amazon.com.au: Computers

Motors: 200w 24vdc RPM90-110 torque 14.6Nm ($630aud Delivered)
12v/24v 200w Dc Worm Gear Motor With Rv30/rv40 Gearbox For High Torque And Reversible Rotation - Buy 24v Dc Worm Gear Motor 12v Dc Worm Gear Motor worm Drive Gear Motor Dc high Torque Dc Motor 200w Speed Regulating Motor With Turbine Gearbox high Torque 12v Dc Motor high Torque Motor 24v Dc Electric Motor dc Worm Motor brushed Dc Worm Gear Motor dc Worm Gear Motor Product on Alibaba.com

Elegoo uno R3: ($20aud delivered)
ELEGOO UNO R3 Board ATmega328P ATMEGA16U2 with USB Cable Compatible with Arduino IDE : Amazon.com.au: Electronics

Power supply: meanwell 350w 24vdc ($45 delivered)
Mean Well LRS-350-24 AC/DC Switching Power Supply 350.4W 24V 14.6Amp Single Output Provided by KAINSC Products: Power Supplies: Amazon.com.au

Racing seat frame: ( bought this instead of welding upper frame) ($404aud delivered)
Cheap And Good 8040 4080 Black Anodized Extrusion Aluminium T Slot Profile Home Use Sim Racing Rig Cockpit Driving Simulation - Buy Sim Racing Simulator sim Racing Rig Flight Simulator Cockpits aluminium Frames 4080 8040 Kit Racing Game Simulator Sim Racing Cockpit Custom Aluminum Cockpit Sim Racing driving School Simulator airplane Cockpit car Driving Simulator ps4 Driving Simulator cheap And Good 8040 4080 Black Anodized Extrusion Aluminium T Slot Profile Home Use Sim Racing Rig Cockpit Driving Simulation Product on Alibaba.com

Hall effect Pot (2 pots $76aud delivered)
6127V1A180L.5FS BI Technologies / TT Electronics | Mouser Australia

rear tail shaft (for uni-joint $157aud delivered) only need one end
Rear Drive Prop Shaft Driveshaft Tailshaft for Toyota TownAce KR42 RWD 1997-2007 | eBay Australia

Someone I know is giving me a WRX carseat.

I choose to go to a racing frame because the 4080 ali extrude allows the platform to be adjustable easily for the driver. 3 kids means 3 different positions. and this kit was still cheaper then buying the ali in australia and designing, cutting the frame myself.

I am having trouble finding a lever arm for the keyed rv30 shaft. anyone know what it is called or where to find? attached is a photo form the2jakes build DIY 4DoF motion simulator with Traction Loss , I am after something like that doesnt need to be exactly that. I was hoping for a lever length of 100-150mm.

If I did it again I would weld the lever arms etc to the shaft. Aka 14mm hole in my 1/8 Steele and a jig to hold it perfectly square and weld it. If there is any slack it will be noticeable.

I ended up machining flats (big pain very hard steel), drilling holes and using angle brackets. Works now but welding would have been less work