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Showroom DIY mmos force feeedback Steering Wheel

Discussion in 'DIY peripherals' started by Lebois, Apr 6, 2019.

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  1. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...) Gold Contributor

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    Hi !

    My build is interely DIY. It's based on the project from Alexey. I will try to show you each step and explain all my choices. So the goal is to build a good wheel :)

    1) Encoder
    Most direct drive wheels have a 10000 ppr encoders. To reach that I use a 2000ppr encoder with 1:8 pulleys kit, so it will makes 16000 ppr (I also have a 1000 ppr system, but it works well anyway). The downside is that the bigger pulley is very heavy and will add inertia to the wheel, so I will have to drill it...

    Encoder costed 40€ (a 600 ppr encoder is enough and very inexpensive) and then 33€ for the pulleys.

    2) Motor and motor driver

    Based on a 350W 24V DC motor. If you want stronger motors, you will need a more expensive power supply, and it will be more interesting to build a direct drive.

    Ideally, you want around 10 N.m... but you also want a quick motor so it will produce all the details. DD wheel motors are around 1500 rpm. Mine is 2700 rpm for 1,2 N.m. So I decided to use a 1:2 ratio to have 2,4 N.m / 1350 rpm. I will maybe use 1:2.5 or 1:3 later, but as I am doing endurance races, I don't want something too strong.

    The motor costed 40€ then 11€ for the pulleys, 14€ for the BTS7960B driver and 23€ for the 24v/15A power supply.

    3) Frame

    The goal here is to have a strong and rigid frame with bearings to avoid to loose power here. So I choosed to use two UCF201 blocks (12€) to maintain a 12mm axle.

    4) Electronics
    The system is based on a STM32F4 board.
    From the previous projects, and I learned that : don't use messy connectors ! So everything will be soldered or connected with aviators connectors. I will update the schematic later.


    5) Wheel
    For the wheel, I will use a 3D printer to print everything.
    For the buttons, I use the bluehid board that is a bluetooth baord, so there won't be any cable from the wheel to the base.


    If you like this project, please support me by giving me a like on my Pimax 5k+ review !
    • Like Like x 1
  2. asteroulis

    asteroulis New Member

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    Any updates? Looking forward to seeing your build :)
  3. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...) Gold Contributor

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    Yeah there is some news.. quite bad news..
    First :
    1) Impossible to find a pwm driver (with two directions) that handles enough power. The BTS7960B driver melt directly.

    2) The DC motor has too much cogging... I don't think it will be suitable for a steering wheel. In fact, I mainly started this project to have something with less cogging than my G27..

    3) The DC motor has a lot of power, and it isn't easy to manage to have the pulley fixed on the two axles... Maybe it would be possible if I drill a little hole in the axles for the screws to fit, but it's a real problem.

    4) My build was specific to my rig, I don't think it would be easy to build an universal mounting system from what I have build
  4. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...) Gold Contributor

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    Otherwise the monster was quite cool to look at XD

    I will use the motor to drive a seat belt.

    And the 3D printed pedals are almost done, I will update it. They are great !

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 2
  5. OZHEAT

    OZHEAT Member

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    @Lebois I think you will find most of your "cogging" feeling comes from the HTD timing belt, if you change to a PJ type ribbed belt you will find it will feel a lot better.

    edit. I believe some compound drop saws use pj belts & pulleys and may be a source of cheapish drive system, I know my hitachi one does.
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019
  6. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...) Gold Contributor

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    In fact, I should have seen this before... Even by turning the motor by hand you can feel that there is too much cogging...
    The belts could be more efficient but it's not the main problem. I have the same belt on my G27 to connect the axles to an rotary encoder, and it didn't add so much cogging effect...

    But for the moment, the main problem comes from the lack of a good pwm driver...
  7. Sieben

    Sieben Active Member

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    Whats the name of the motor? Strange that it has steps, while rotating a shaft itself. And that's a bit weird belt gearing config too imho.
  8. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...) Gold Contributor

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  9. Sieben

    Sieben Active Member

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    As for an example, the MY1025, rotates without clearly defined tendency for steps in shaft rotations. But of course that might depends differently from MY1016, couse, it has a bit different coils.
    The belt gear is like 1:1 or near by to it, with very tight tension of a belt there, to the wheel shaft itself, and then a "level up" gearing for the encoder. Why did you do it like this?
    Bay the way. There reports that the more ppr the encoder is, the more bts get heated up. Even on much lesser values. Not even taking in account 10000ppr or more. I gues you messed up with this config.
    U.d better build a conventional one with 1:4, 1:6 gear, or a Dd with 12 volts, and more amps. Or try even with this psu u,ve got. Or put the encoder for the wheel shaft back only. In order not to drill the motor and connect encoder there, as usually done in DD builds.
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019
  10. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...) Gold Contributor

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    The ratio is 1:3 if I remember well...
    I don't think that the bts heated up because of the encoder. The pwm frequency only relies on the STM32 parameters...

    It was almost harder to put the encoder on the wheel shaft than parallel to it... And thanks to the 1:8 pulleys, it produces 8 times more ppr... I thought it was a good idea, but I couldn't verify...

    Meanwhile, I got a bonus that I used to buy a simucube and Mige 80ST, it also allowed me to focus my efforts on the rig, the pedals etc... I need it to be ready for this summer so...

    I learned a lot by trying to build such a wheel, and I hope to have the time to try again later, even if my DD is fully satisfying.
  11. Sieben

    Sieben Active Member

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    The pwm is not the case, it is heated up. But the frequency of sampling rate to it, does. I bet the higher rates for wheel requirements ppr, is an odd thing, especially with this hardware and set up )
  12. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...) Gold Contributor

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    15606148013601863716974.jpg
    I will investigate that.

    I made good progress on the pedals, i think that i will share 3d printed files soon.
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Sieben

    Sieben Active Member

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    Sampling rate and bts heats'up dependancy, is already proved by another diy project guy.

    Nice pressure transducer brake system.