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Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Gadget999, Sep 23, 2017.

  1. Frederiksen

    Frederiksen New Member

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    Can someone explain the pull up resistor for the encoder pls? I don't know if I need one or not with an omron 1000p/r and if I do how do I know what specifications of the resistor to get?
  2. Czary

    Czary New Member

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    Hi, AFAIK you'll need 2 kΩ 0,5-0,6W metal film resistor THT type.

    Btw.my first attepmt to solder PCB connector board was unsuccesful. Soon I've found the design flaw- one of the wires was runnig too close to SN7407 pads so there was a short :
    PCB DD Wheel.jpg
    I've redesigned the PCB wires distance and also added pin connections for 2xMCP23S17 serial iterface.
    As soon as I confirm that PCB works fine I'll upload pdf and gerber files ;)
  3. Frederiksen

    Frederiksen New Member

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    Thanks for your response. What does THT type mean? What percent should the resistor be? All of the resistors have percents with them.
  4. BlueTiger

    BlueTiger New Member

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    Good Afternoon,
    I made the wheel with an Arduino Leonardo and a 350W motor. I'm using this program and it all works fine. My only problem is i've broke almost 6 IBT-2, Every time Dirt Rally 2.0 chrashes the wheel starts to rotate fast in one direction and so I plug the power supply of. After that when i reopened the game and plugged in the power supply it immediatlely shuts down( a short circuit).
  5. Czary

    Czary New Member

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    Ok, there is a SMT and THT technology in electronics. THT is through hole technology, which simply requires drilling holes in the middle of soldering pad on a PCB (as is in my design of connector board), and those THT parts have leads attached to mount them.

    The SMT (surface mount technology) is most common today, as the PCB design only use pads for soldering the part with no holes required.
    For hommade PCB we can use both technologies, but with THT you can use part lead as via to transfer signal from one side of PCB to another.

    Percents says how much the value can deviate from the reference value (so buying 100kΩ 5% resistors means that the real value varies from 95 to 105 kΩ). So it's best to buy 1% version of the component for this application.
  6. Frederiksen

    Frederiksen New Member

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    Thanks for the clear and informative explanation.

    How should I mount the steering wheel to my my1020? I saw somewhere on here people said not to put it directly on the shaft. How should I do it then?
  7. Frederiksen

    Frederiksen New Member

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    Everything I need for the wheel finally arrived. Now I just need to know how to attach encoder to my1020 and how to mount wheel on motor.

    Also how can I test the ibt_2s I recieved?
  8. Czary

    Czary New Member

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    Hi, as far as I know it's best to use bredboard, PSU, and smaller motor to test IBT separately.

    As my build is more like research and getting things before I start, I've found some gear for this project :
    MY1223F 500W 36V (specs says 4,78 Nm @ 10,7 Amps)- already ordering this one in one of the local suppliers.

    and h-bridge capable of 60A peak current :
    https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...cts-as-a-single-motor-driver-more-power.5482/
    These are dirt cheap, like 7 $ each, so definately worth a try against IBT-2.
  9. Qlittles

    Qlittles Member

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    hello everyone, i've been following this thread, and am set to build a DD wheel. I had a question about which motor to choose. I will be using a small wheel (like a logitech momo wheel), and so don't think i'll be needing much power. This is what I have gathered from the thread about the following motors:

    my1016:
    - requires only 1 IBT2 board
    - less wattage power supply required
    - no perceivable steps between magnets when powered
    - lower torque
    - low cost

    my1020
    - should use 2 IBT2 boards (or more)
    - requires a power supply around 1000w ?
    - must align the center between the magnets so that the car goes straight without correction
    - sufficient torque
    - costs about $50 more ($40 more for the motor and $10 more for the extra IBT2)

    Since I've never had or tried a DD wheel, it's hard to tell how much torque I need (especially using a small wheel). I have 4 questions:
    1) Is my1020 overkill? or will I eventually grow into needing more torque for better control of the cars?
    2) Is the detail same for both motors? Or does my1016 have less detail (if using the same encoder)?
    3) my understanding is that the STM32F4 will provide more detail and is better than the Leonardo because of either the updated software or because it is more hardware capable. Am I correct in this understanding? I ask because I already own a Leonardo.
    4) will the 1016 have overheating issues even if I drill holes for ventilation?
    Much appreciation for any help!
  10. Gadget999

    Gadget999 Active Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    that is a pretty good summary :)

    i suggest you go for the my1020 to give yourself more headroom (I have one but not found the time to build a new wheel)

    it appears there is no performance difference between the leonardo and the STM32F4

    i am rebuilding my wheel to work with a SMT32F4 - but have not found the time

    something I did find with the Leonardo is that the wheel would occasionally go into a spin when powered up, I don't know why this happened maybe powering the board first and then the motor may be a solution
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  11. Qlittles

    Qlittles Member

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    Thank you Gadget999 for the recommendation! Looks like i'll go the my1020 route. I'll read the thread several more times and start ordering the parts. I hope I can pull it off :)
  12. ste94

    ste94 New Member

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    Hello guys, i completed this project almost a year ago, using a LY1020 (48V 800W), arduino Leonardo and then an stm32f4 (the black one) along with 3 bts7960.
    After 1 year of using it i'm extremily happy about it but i've always had a problem... The FFB always seemed a bit weak, i did some measuration and got like 4Nm. I used a 12V 600W server PSU but couldn't test it so i had no idea of its real output. Recently i bought an used PSU rated at 106A at 12V and it produced the same torque (a bit more but not much).
    So i got a current clamp and measured that both PSUs output something around 30A instead of 50/106A. To test it just setted a spring effect to 100% and then pulled the wheel away from the center.

    Anyway i was wondering if the problem is in the psus or in something after them, the bts7960s are all working though. Do you know what could be the problem on the 1300W's PSU? Or, since i've got 2 identical 600W PSUs, how can i connect them in parallel directly or do i need some diodes?
  13. Alexey

    Alexey Well-Known Member

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    It's because you are running a 48V motor at 12V. The torque that you are getting seems about right. If you want more torque you will need to run the motor at 24V, but with that you will need very powerful DC supplies. The bts7960 can run at 24V so all you need to do is to get 100A 24V power supplies.
  14. ste94

    ste94 New Member

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    Thanks for the fast reply Alexey.
    From what i've gathered in the previous pages a motor with an higher nominal voltage will produce higher torque because of more windings when powered with a low voltage supply, because higher voltage is needed only for higher rotational speed. Is this correct? Most of the guys who completed this project on another forum are using 12V power supply with really high current.

    So do you think it's the motor that's limiting the current? Should i try to connect 2 PSUs in series to obtain 24V and see the results?
    I though of doubling the current to double the torque, as said by danove_b (i believe it was him in the first pages, i'm not sure though) but maybe i should give the 24V a try!
  15. Alexey

    Alexey Well-Known Member

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    Whilst higher voltages do give you a higher rotational speed, the higher voltages also equate to higher current draw and thus higher torque.
    The motor is in fact limiting the current as I = V/R. As you decrease voltage, the current also drops. Whilst a motor isn't quite as simple as that the generality holds true.
    You cannot force any current down a wire, it will draw current directly related to it's resistance and the voltage supplied.

    You can only put 2 power supplies in series if there is no ground pin connection on the AC side! Be careful here.
  16. ste94

    ste94 New Member

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    Thanks Alexey, i'll try something and then report back, maybe it could help someone else!
  17. Qlittles

    Qlittles Member

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    Hello all, I'm wondering if anyone went the Motomonster route rather than the IBT2. Would going with Motomonster instead of the IBT2 make everything slower? I mention this because I have a few Motomonsters (not tested), and am thinking if there is no speed difference, it may handle the amps better than the IBT?

    On the side-note I have another question (which might be obvious for many of you):
    Does the type of pull-up resistor change (2k Ohm) depending on if I'm using a Leonardo or a STM32?
    I'm guessing the answer is "no"?
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2019
  18. ste94

    ste94 New Member

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    Reporting back after raising my PSU's tension to 13.5V (from 12.5). Now I've got a bit more torque and the motor absorbs more power, so i guess alexey was right by saying that the motor was the weak link of the chain...
    So i think i'll search for some industrial motor (36 or 24V) to avoid high temperatures and to obtain a lot of torque with under 100A (a guy from the Drivingitalia forum has got a motor off an industrial floor washing machine and he's getting something around 15Nm with only 66A). Otherwise I'll probably settle for a MY1020 36v since it's kinda easy to get and cheap.
    Thanks for all the help, I'll let you know if i find some good motor!
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