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6DOF sim / linear actuator diy / sabertooth-arduino

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by baykah, Dec 12, 2016.

  1. SixDegreesOfFlight

    SixDegreesOfFlight Well-Known Member

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    @baykah
    It is great to see your project progressing. I like how you have used angled steel at the three contact points on the upper frame for the rose joints. This will make the frame easier to weld rather than doing butt joints :grin
  2. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    great job with your linear actuators! :thumbs

    can you share more details, please? sensor directly on the master cylinder? at what price?
  3. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/2dof-compact-seat-mover.6654/page-3

    You need to read page 3 + 4
    and carefull when buying it, the master cylinder I bought had M10x125 and it was not indicated ... the 1/8ntp adaptor I gouht first had M10x100 ...


    I tested the DDWheel + brake mod + wheel buton radio mod on dirt rally yesterday for 1hours (without motion) !, I'm quite happy with the basic settings !
    Even my radio arduino mod for the shift gear works !

    I lowered the force on MMOS to 15% as even with a granity max output at 15A it was too strong on the G25 small wheel ....
    For the brake mod, I use leobodnar adaptor and I just replaced the potentiometer by the pressure sensor.

    Avec holidays, I will buy AS and try real racing !

    Next :
    => Buy a new screen ...., i'm looking at 34" 21/9 2560x1080 - LG 34" LED 34UM58
    => Make an adaptor for the 300mm wheel..
    => Wiring management .....
    • Like Like x 1
  4. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    Hello everyone !

    I did some work the past few weeks ...

    Sorry for the picture with my phone, they are not so great ..

    Anyway =>

    - I ordered from aliexpress a dirt bike complete rear brake, I mounted the pressure sensor on the purge side and voilà !
    It is heavy, ugly, but far better than a spring (but not as good as a real car)

    - I switched to a 21/9 - 2560*1080 - 34" screen, it's great

    - I switched from my G25 wheel to a 300mm wheel, I had to redo the part to mount the wheel on the Hirden servo motor. I still used my moteino (arduino + RF433) to transmit the gear shift to an arduino leonardo that is seen as a joystick.

    - I added on both side of the wheel old MFD cougar, that way, on elite dangerous I remove the wheel and have all the button available.

    - I have started tweaking simtools to provide acceleration and side acceleration to pitech and roll movement.
    I reduced a lot the impact of the orientation of the car (the real pitch and roll).
    I want to feel strong acceleration ...
    Also, switched from yaw to traction loss, and tweaked to have only the rear of the sim going from 1 side to another, and this is great !


    Next steps :
    - Small :
    Shaker transduser under the seat ?
    Air fan to simulate speed ?
    - Medium :
    Harness ? with Tensionner ?
    - Big :
    G seat ?
    Kangaroo with rotary encoder ?

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
  5. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    Little video to show that it's becoming great :D
    • Like Like x 10
  6. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    It survived my friends !!

    Dirt rally and asseto corsa

    They thought I was crazy doing that, now they know I am crazy.
    • Like Like x 2
    • Funny Funny x 2
  7. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    Santa has come ....

    Just received 8 10kg RC servo and a 4 points harness ...

    I let you gess what I'm doing :D

    @All who worked on Gseat, thanks, very inspiring !
    • Like Like x 1
    • Winner Winner x 1
  8. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    V1 of my simple harness tensioner working great !

    V2 will mainly change the connection between spring and servo arm (currently limiting range), later I will switch to aluminum arms and to something better..

    I decided to only apply tension when there is deceleration, it's not doing anything during accel.
    Easy to change, but I like it that way, I will probably do something else when I will have a gseat.

    I also fixed 2 bass shaker below the seat and it's working with sime vibe on a 75W amp and another sound card.
    I'm just waiting plugins to be compatible to test it !

    Next :
    - G seat .... (only side and back)
    - Speed fan
    - I'd like a rumble motor on the brake pedal link with abs/wheel stop
    - Change the pressure sensor in my brake circuit, I borke the 300psi I had on a very strong braking event ingame ... I ordered a 500psi 2 weeks ago in china ... waiting now..

    Attached Files:

  9. llluis

    llluis Active Member Gold Contributor

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    What game are you using to test?
  10. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    None, only lfs plugin is working currently and I don't use lfs, but in the setting of simevibe you can set things up and test output, that s why I know my setup produce something
  11. llluis

    llluis Active Member Gold Contributor

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    Yes, I know. I was wondering what games you are testing with SimVibe. Are you using the standard profiles of it?
  12. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    None, I'm waiting for the plugin update
  13. JohnCor

    JohnCor New Member Gold Contributor

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    Hey @baykah, great project! I have a question for you. Do you have a diagram of how you connected the PSU+diode + capacitor?
    I have the same issue as the one you stated above, and I would like to avoid using batteries, but I will use it if I have to. I'm using one PSU 12v, 600watts 50A, for both motors (25:1, 12v, 180watts)
    Please check out my project and if you have time, I will appreciate any help. Thanks

    https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/2dof-seat-mover-project-diy.11813/#post-154278
  14. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    Hello,

    No diagram but it's basic electronics
    - the diode is on the RED + wire of the power supply (serial mounting)
    - the capacitor is between the RED + and the BLACK - wires on the output supply (parallel mounting)
  15. JohnCor

    JohnCor New Member Gold Contributor

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    Thanks so much for your reply!
    I noticed that you are using two PSU in parallel with your system, I only have one LED PSU 12v, 600w, 50A for one Saberthooth 2x32 and the 2 motors 12v, 180w. Do you recommend getting another PSU to set it up in parallel? Also if You think that one PSU is enough for my setup, should I buy the same values diode (100A) and capacitor (47000uf) as you? or the values need to be smaller for one PSU?
    Maybe I'm asking basic questions but I'm not much of an electronic guy :(

    Thanks again for your kindness
  16. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    I think you need to try, if one psu is not enought and another one later.

    My psu were 8€ each, so having 2 to get 47A per actuator (2 PSU = 1 Sabertooth = 2 actuators) was ok.
    The sabertooth 2x32 can output 64A per channel burst If I remember correclty, so I just wanted to have some margin with the power.

    the diode, I don't remember the price, but only 3 was OK, 100A because I could afford it.
    The capacitor, because I saw some use it on another thread, remember to take one with at least 25V, but keep 47 000µF

    So far, still working great on my setup.
    • Informative Informative x 2
  17. JohnCor

    JohnCor New Member Gold Contributor

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    Thanks so much for the info @baykah!
    I'll try that on my setup
  18. Stouuf

    Stouuf Member

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    Very good project !
  19. Flymen

    Flymen Flymen Gold Contributor

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    Hi , it realy a must to do this : plastic part at the end to reduce play ?
    because a have the same set up than you ( carbon tube with top end bearing ) and i did some load test with them and i have some little scratch line .

    Salut ,
    est ce vraiment utile de faire la pieces de plastique en haut pour réduire le jeu entre la tige de carbon ?
    parce que j'ai le meme set up que toi et je ne suis qu'au commencement du projet et j'ai déjà quelques ligne d'égratignures causé par les petit bearing ( support du haut ) .
    Merci
  20. baykah

    baykah Active Member

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    Tu parles du jeu entre la ballscrew et l'intérieur de la tige de carbon ?, pour être honnete, j'ai certrains actuateurs qui vibrent beaucoup lors de gros délacement. Pour moi c'est clairement le fait que le bout de la tige ballscrew est pas fixé.
    https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/flypt-6dof-brushless-diy-actuators.10799/page-6
    Je vais faire cela au prochain démontage.
    Je pense aussi que mes ballscrew chinoise mal embalé on prix des coups au shipping et ne sont peut être pas totalement droite.


    Do you speak about the play between the ballscrew and the carbon tube ?, to be honest, some of my actuators vibrate a lot during big displacement. For me it is clearly the fact that the other end of the ballscrew is not fixed.
    https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/flypt-6dof-brushless-diy-actuators.10799/page-6
    I'm gonna do this next time I dismount the sim.
    Moreover, I think that the ballscrew chinease I have may have been damaged during shipping, or maybe they are not totaly straight.