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2dof for existing diy playseat

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Arazok, Mar 27, 2018.

  1. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    ok, thanks Ljanen. As it is not that expensive, I think I will buy it.
  2. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    Yesterday we could test our new approach: I removed the wooden structure and we build a compact frame out of steel (my friend helped me as he is experienced in welding). I bought a new lightweight seat (~ 7 kg) as well.
    It is much more stable and ~ 13 kg lighter as before.
    See pictures and videos here (with LFS running on a laptop). Later I want to use it with my PS4 and PC2 :)
    DSC_0008.JPG DSC_0009.JPG DSC_0011.JPG




    I have to smoothen the movement, as especially when shifting the movement is to heavy and to sharp.
    So next days I have to investigate in Tuningcenter and "Trial and Error".
    I also ordered some rubber feet for mounting below the construction for a stable position.
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  3. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    So here is the result after hard work :) But it was fun !



    Some fine tuning needs to be done, but it's working good with the PS4.
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  4. 427Cobra

    427Cobra There is no substitute for cubic inches

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Looks very good!
    What is the dimension of the steel tubes in your frame? 30x30x2mm?
  5. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    35x35x2 mm
  6. 427Cobra

    427Cobra There is no substitute for cubic inches

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    Thanks :)
    I'm in the design phase of my frame and haven't decided yet what dimensions to use.
  7. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    New problem arose: When playing PC2 and there is heavy action, mostly one motors goes off. First I checked, if it was out of it limits and goes off by intention (SMC3 code). But that wasn`t the case. I made a few tests and find out, that the MonsterMoto gets too hot (both pgsaw motors connected to one MM) and shuts down the motor for a few seconds.
    I ordered the sabertooth 2x32 motordriver and have to adapt the setup when it arrives :)
  8. yellofella

    yellofella Member

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    have you factored in the fact that switching from the MM to the sabertooth you will have to deal with the regenerative voltage spikes that the sabertooh produces either by a battery in parallel with the power supply or the resistors or inline power cap that some users have used. your power supply will trip out when the motors change direction if you don't deal with them. just a heads up if u have already ordered the sabretooth if not try better cooling for the MM.
    hope this helps
  9. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    Thanks for your hint.
    Yes, I read about the Power voltage clamp resistors but haven't ordered them yet. First I want to make a test without. Hopefully today when Sabertooth will arrive....
  10. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    What is new to me: A solution with inline power caps. Do you have a link ?
  11. yellofella

    yellofella Member

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    I haven't got a link but if you got a sabretooth on the way it might be worth a look through this site on how others are using it. I fried my sabretooth years ago and changed to the motomonster driver so no recent experience with it, I used a battery in parallel to deal with the voltage spikes at the time not liking the resister idea as they do get quite hot and why burn all that regenerative voltage as heat when it was designed to be used, that's why it was designed into the driver in the first place. what I was referring to was a post id seen on here somewhere that the guy was using a power cap (or maybe 2 together) designed for car audio as an accumulator for the voltage spikes. not sure how much success he had with it and there not cheap to buy but worth a look
  12. yellofella

    yellofella Member

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    ok done a bit of research for you and seems that some other sabertooth users are using a 100amp reverse blocking diode in series on the power supply live cable. Get one that has a voltage capacity at least twice as much as your power supply voltage and use a heat sink on it as it may get hot otherwise. Then use a 47000uf electrolytic capacitor or maybe 2 together in parallel depending on your needs across the power supply live and ground again at least twice the voltage of your power supply. Be very aware if using this method that you get the polarity correct on the capacitor as it will explode violently if installed backwards. I had a 470uf explode while I was testing years ago on a breadboard due to not paying attention that burned into the carpet and went with one hell of a bang. The capacitors you will be using if you choose this method are 100 times bigger than the one I blew so please be carefull and remember that capacitors hold electric even when turned of or disconnected. Read some of the posts on here before you proceed with this idea as ive no way to test any of this for you. Just trying to help a fellow sim racer
  13. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    thanks yellowfella !
    I searched as well and found this thread:
    https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/power-supply-tripping.13110/#post-177569

    But it seems that the tripping problem can be solved with the KBPC5010 only and no need of a capacitor.
    My ST arrived today, but it was the wrong one, 2x12 not 2x32 !
    Shit happens. So I have to wait another week, I guess.
    cheers, Dirk
  14. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    Just a short feedback:
    I have no tripping of the powersupply when using the KBPC5010 together with Sabertooth 2x32 !
    Works great !
  15. Arazok

    Arazok Member

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    Yesterday a 130kg-weighing friend of mine has tested my rig. It was working fine, he was impressed :)
    Wahooo !:)
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