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2DOF compact seat mover

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by pipis2015, Mar 14, 2015.

  1. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    ty @pipis2015 this looks like a fun project. so for about 50us i can build an hydraulic brake input. Never enough time to build everything i want to.
  2. pipis2015

    pipis2015 over-boost

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    I completed the mod without removing the internal dual springs of the t500 brake pedal.

    First impressions.
    I don't know how much trapped air is inside the cylinder(this can be changed to one's taste)... But the for the first 60-70% of the brake force the pedal has a small amount of travel and the next 30-40% (from 60-70% up to 100%) the braking force is applied by pressure on the pedal without pedal travel at all.
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  3. pipis2015

    pipis2015 over-boost

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    --------------------Problem was solved---------------
    Unfortunately my joy did not last long.
    After leaving the rig for a while to get some rest ...when I got back the press sensor seemed to give no output signal.

    I can't believe I damaged the sensor.
    Did I get that far over 500psi to destroy it?
    Well ... I ll have to wait for a new one to come from the "east"... preferably a 1000psi sensor and see what went wrong...

    --------------------Problem was solved---------------
    Last edited: May 30, 2016
  4. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. pipis2015

    pipis2015 over-boost

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    Yeah, I had read some info ...but I didn't expect I could manage to go that high with gaming pedals.

    I even thought 500psi sensor was an overkill.

    Guess that's the way to learn by trial and error.

    I thought of having a gauge on the cylinder.
    You re right.


    Thing is I also wanted to keep things simple and low cost.

    (Some times cheap is more expensive...).
    • Like Like x 1
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  6. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    Keep going! :cheers
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  7. pipis2015

    pipis2015 over-boost

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    So following @bruce stephen 's advice, I bought a gauge to measure and be sure of what sensor to use next.

    I will update once I get the gauge.
    For the time being its back to stock.
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  8. pipis2015

    pipis2015 over-boost

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    Another update on the sensor.

    I have been searching all weekend about how these press sensors work, their tolerance etc.

    Well, I found out that they have a mechanical tolerance that is in excess of 200% of their rating. In fact some sheets state 2x-4x the rated max value (1000 to 2000psi for a 500 psi sensor).

    Given the fact that the way my master cylinder is mounted, there is almost no leverage ( my foot presses straight on the pump...there is no leverage to multiply the force) I couldn't convince myself that I damaged the sensor.

    So I re-soldered the sensor cables and mounted the cylinder once more.

    And the damned thing worked flawlessly...

    I will be posting some pics tomorrow.
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  9. pipis2015

    pipis2015 over-boost

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    as promised... hyd brake 1.jpg
    hyd brake 2.jpg
    hyd brake 3.jpg
    hyd brake 4.jpg
    hyd brake 5.jpg


    Next thing i will try to measure the force needed for full braking.

    For the moment i estimate it somewhere between 25 to 40 kilos (roughly 250 to 400 newton) but i could be wrong.

    Once i have a confirmed reading from a reliable instrument i ll post the results.

    As a first impression the pedal feels harder to fully push than an everyday cars pedal (with servo assistance when engine is running) but also a lot softer than the feeling of the brake pedal when the engine is turned off (no servo assistance).
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    Last edited: Apr 5, 2016
  10. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    Nice. How is it interfaced? Did you wire it directly to the existing controller? Or do you have something different. I use g25 pedals with bodnar cable, do you think it will be compatible?
  11. pipis2015

    pipis2015 over-boost

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    I unsoldered the brake potentiometer (3 cables) and soldered directly the sensor terminals (3 cables: power/gnd/signal) on the pedal board (just a simple conection board with only traces on it...no electronics at all).
    30' job (25 mins for disassembly and assembly and 5 mins for the soldering part).
    • Informative Informative x 1
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2016
  12. pipis2015

    pipis2015 over-boost

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    Some extra info:

    The pedals are "fed" with 3.3volts (as are the buttons on the steering wheel).

    But the sensor works fine.
    • Informative Informative x 2
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2016
  13. pipis2015

    pipis2015 over-boost

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    Last update on the hydraulic brake pedal mod.

    Today i removed both the factory springs from under the brake pedal to "lighten" it.

    So its just the master cylinder now (the cylinder has an internal spring that brings the pump/pedal back to "zero" position when no foot pressure is applied).

    I am very happy with the result.

    The force needed to fully press the pedal is also more in proportion to the (motor) force of the steering wheel.

    Without the springs the brake pedal doesnt become fatiguing even after many laps.

    It still is a lot firmer compared to the stock pedal even with the use of the third spring the so called realistic mod.

    The pedal travel is also enough to be able to modulate the braking force (close to 70% of full stock travel).

    Of course the stock springs can be used to tune the feel to each ones taste.

    Would i recomend the mod?

    Absolutely yes.

    How would i rate it?

    A 10/10 would be a conservative rating especially considering the cost.


    DID I MENTION THAT THIS MOD IS ALSO CONSOLE FRIENDLY ???
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    Last edited: Apr 6, 2016
  14. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    Too cool. You should post this Brake mod in its own thread in diy peripherals. I ordered the parts today. This is very creative.
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  15. pipis2015

    pipis2015 over-boost

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    Thanks for the kind words Bruce.

    I plan on making a dedicated thread with all the info gathered when I have some spare time.
    • Like Like x 1
  16. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    20160414_130921.jpg
    just waiting on the sensor from china...ty @pipis2015
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  17. asdfgg

    asdfgg New Member

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    nice work dude! :D i'm very interested to the project! I follow it!
  18. Knauba

    Knauba New Member

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    Hi @pipis2015, first off: very nice work. Your simulator really catched me. I'm currently building a very similar thing, at least I'm trying to :)

    I've got a question according your instructions on the PSU. You write: "A “Y” cable to short pins 6-9-10". In another instruction, I read 6-8-10 and as I'm not really into electronics and need to believe everything I read, I'm a bit confused now. As far as I know pin 8 is ground so this made more sense to me in the first place and I followed the latter (http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174225). But unfortunately, when I power up the PSU neither the fan stops spinning, nor there is any power coming out. (4 and 8 are also shorted)

    Before I start the deconstruction, are you really using pins 6-9-10?


    IMG_1490.JPG IMG_1491.JPG
  19. Blame73

    Blame73 Well-Known Member

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    Is it a DPS 600PB?
    if yes: pin 4-8 and 6-10

    take a look here:
    https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/how-to-modify-a-server-power-supply-for-12v.5774/
    [​IMG]
    • Agree Agree x 2
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    Last edited: Jan 21, 2017
  20. Knauba

    Knauba New Member

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    Thanks @Blame73, yes indeed it is a DPS 600PB. That makes it two for 6-8-10 :).
    So most probably my PSU is just broken :(