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What kind of printer do you use?

Discussion in '3D Printing' started by bruce stephen, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. Jymä

    Jymä Member

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    Tevo Tarantula with some modifications:
    Genuine E3D V6 hotend, old server psu from my sim, glass on top of heatbed, Octoprint with camera (Raspberry Pi can be seen behind psu) and some printed supports here and there.

    IMG_20180202_122005.jpg

    Pretty good value for the money, but I'm mostly printing quite large parts and have issues with warping using PETG filament. I've tried different bed adhesions and haven't found the optimal solution yet. If I secure the print with 100% PVA glue it will stick but is a pita to remove. Especially because I can't remove the glass easily... Should have made it removable if I knew. I thought warping was ABS issue only.

    Maybe I should try ABS with some kind of casing for the printer or still different brands of PETG. Sucks when you see the prints starting to warp only after 5 hours or so. For adhesion I have tried hair spray and glue stick, and currently use diluted PVA glue. Small designs and some kind of large designs don't warp at all. :rolleyes:

    I also bought 0.6mm nozzle for the hotend to speed up big prints, but the stock extruder can't really keep up so better use 0.4mm nozzle for everything.
  2. paulg100

    paulg100 Member

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    Never had an issue with petg warping. No way would i bother with ABS for large parts, espcially without an enclosure. ABS is one of the worst out there for warping.

    is there an easy way to convert your bed to PEI.

    Before i get me prusa mk3 i was using a glass bed on wanhao i3. Tried all the hacks that were supposed to work great, glue, hairspray etc etc etc.

    With the PEI bed on the prusa you have to use glue to stop petg sticking to well!!
    Some of it is also due to the levelling as well. The wanhao didn't have auto bed level so it was never anything like as level and consistent as the prusa is.
  3. Jymä

    Jymä Member

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    Thanks for the advice! Maybe I'll order a PEI sheet and try PETG filament from Prusa.
    Printer has manual bed leveling, but I have found pretty stable method for it. Guess its even more important with PEI sheet to not damage it. Although I could try installing some cheap induction sensor I have.
  4. paulg100

    paulg100 Member

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    The PEI is not particularly delicate, it stands up to a scraper fine.

    The brand of petg filament ive used the most is REAL, but used a few other budget brands also. PETG is known for having one of the lowest shrinkage of all the filaments, on par or less than pla so you should not be getting warping problems really. Like i say, ive never had an issue with warp. and ive printed some pretty big stuff.

    the one thing i found worked the best for glass was sandblasting it. Everything stuck great.. so great that after a while the prints started tearing the surface off the glass!

    Just a thought but is it possible your roll has been sitting out for a long time soaking up moisture?
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2018
  5. Jymä

    Jymä Member

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    No, after I opened the roll I printed around 200 gram part and it warped. The petg filament brand is esun. Here's an example. First layer starts fine and all but then it starts to warp after 30 layers or so. The Z isn't perfect either...
    warp.jpg
  6. paulg100

    paulg100 Member

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    Used a few rolls of that on the wanhao glass bed. No issues to report TBH. The only time i have lifting like that is if 1. beds not level 2. extruder/bed temp not hot enough.
    On glass i was priting esun at 250 with 85-90 bed and purple glue stick.
  7. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    Make a thread on the DIY setup paul, Please i would love to learn.
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  8. MarcoMade

    MarcoMade Member

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  9. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    You could try a darker filament. Natural petg lifts easier than the black. I use fructis extreme hair spray on glass for everything. The only problems so far is with pure nylon. My hotend tops out at 280c which is a little cool for nylon.
  10. younique2097

    younique2097 New Member

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    here we are, i build my own printer 3d :)))) based on prusa i3

    Attached Files:

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  11. FoxONe42

    FoxONe42 6DOF newbie

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    I am personnaly still using my Printrbot Simple 2014 edition with some modification. Well I don't have any picture of mine now, but here how it looks like:[​IMG]
    Mine is modified with some self printed Y X axis extension to go from 10 cm span to 15 cm. And all strings have been replaced by belts. And I added a heated bed as well. Other than that, it is pretty much the same as it was 4 years ago :)
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  12. mariano68

    mariano68 Active Member

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    Hey I got my first 3d printer! Creality Ender 3!
    20180904_091308.jpg
    :cheers
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  13. UAlberta Formula SAE

    UAlberta Formula SAE New Member

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    I use a MonoPrice Select Mini V2 but am hoping to get access to something better soon.

    For small prints it does not bad.

    PLA usually works great and I've had decent luck with PETG (but haven't done any big prints in PETG yet). I had a lot of issues with ABS - the standard cat model turned out great and I printed a couple owls that turned out okay but most of my prints delaminated :(

    The build size is good for small parts but for enclosures it's easy to quickly hit the limit (Can manage an Arduino UNO enclosure until you add large mounting tabs etc.).

    [​IMG]
  14. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    Print bed Adhesion is Very important for accurate, Visually perfect prints. What is the build plate on that Mini V2 ? i Can highly suggest the "Elmers Xtreme Glue Stick" for any PEI type surface or a Glass Plate, Obviously certain Filaments will react differently, But overall this is my Go To for when i NEEEEED stuff to stick no questions asked.
    • Informative Informative x 2
  15. UAlberta Formula SAE

    UAlberta Formula SAE New Member

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    Thanks for the tip! I've had decent adhesion for PLA and PETG but had someissues with ABS - may have also had to do with print settings as it seemed like the print head just knocked the model off the print bed lol. Maybe I should check that it's level...
  16. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    Yes, a Level Print bed is also Very Critical, You can run some "Z hop" to help counteract Smashing into the print for large Tall model with lots of print head movement
    • Informative Informative x 1
  17. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz New Member

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    I'm using a MagicD Anet A8 that I picked up from Amazon and have been extremely happy with it.

    Had it for just over a year, and for the $250 CAD which it cost on sale it has more than paid for itself in printing parts for my sim rig.

    One drawback is that it had to be completely assembled from scratch, but the bonus for that hassle is that I gained the knowledge of how the machine works.
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  18. SEHATanguy

    SEHATanguy Member

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    Hey guys,

    Is there a 3D printer that is better for us? I mean to help to create item for our motion rigs? I want to buy one but I guess that if I take a too little one, I'll be stuck once i'll need a bigger thing to create for the rig
  19. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    I guess anything that ranges in a 10 to 15 cm square of work area should be enought for most motion rig. You can still stick parts togetter if you want to go bigger. Or get a bigger printer.

    I chose mine on review, and not on scale. No matter how big it is, if it does not work well, you'll be swearing.
    • Disagree Disagree x 1
  20. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz New Member

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    Most of the ones mentioned in this thread should have a large enough print area for anything sim related.

    One of the popular ones you'll hear mentioned is the Monoprice Mini, which I would NOT recommend as it would be far too small for most prints.

    I'm happy with my Anet A8, which has a print area of 220 x 220 x 240mm , is easy to work on if need be, and can be found for under $300, or even $200 when on sale.
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