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Traction loss - a different idea I have in my head.

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by shannonb1, Jan 24, 2017.

  1. crammy

    crammy Active Member Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I was also worried about wheels creating flat spots. i had mine machined from hard nylon as this does not flatten and is extremely smooth. I had 6 made for £60 total including bearings
  2. crammy

    crammy Active Member Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    nylon wheel.jpg

    There is a fair bit if weight on them and they have not flattened, even sat for in exactly the same position for weeks at a time.

    Edit. They are also 60mmØx 40 wide for reference
    • Like Like x 1
  3. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    I like the idea complex but compact :)

    You could always use some plastic linear bearings and it would be even quieter
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  4. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    2 of these came today
    [​IMG]
  5. Pit

    Pit - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Gold Contributor

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    Holy crap, these are big. Hard to imagine what you have in mind building next lol.
  6. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    lol well I was going to mount these as the front center pivot.1 on top and the other on the bottom that the 1" rod wil go through...I also ordered wheels that will be here tomorrow for moving laterally. I have a completely new easier approach to try. If I dont like it I will expand my search for a solution.
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  7. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    yes, like skateboard wheels, I have some 4" wide stock steel that Im going to use
  8. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    So my rig sits on a base, I will mount the motor to the wooden base.....i will put a metal piece of 4" wide stock across the base..im only looking to sway arond 3" to left and 3" to right as my pivot will be right below my knees..this is what is best for my current setup...I think i will still get the sensation as I play 95% in VR.

    I want the wheels to the inside and I think I want to put a padded bar across the center point to help with balance
    upload_2017-1-25_14-0-37.png
  9. crammy

    crammy Active Member Gold Contributor

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    That is what id did with the steel plate for smoothness. i screwed it down where the wheels are to an mdf sheet. it is very smooth and absolutely silent.
    they are like skateboard wheels but a lot harder. I was going to use skateboard wheels originally but remembered a few years ago when i went round my parents to clean the garage out and my skateboard was in a corner and the wheels had flattened so it put me off.
    I will try and find out a spec for the nylon for you tomorrow at work if you want to get some made.

    This is how my new project is being made at the moment also with the wheels inside.

    seat jay-Model 1.jpg
    • Like Like x 2
  10. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    So I ordered these today, cheap to test out another idea. Ill be able to clamp these of the back under the back 1" squared tubing at an angle. I can 3dprtin a piece to lap over the bar and line up to the holes. Im going to tighten the trucks down so they dont have as much flex but this will essentially make this more of a bolt on solution. Where the back have goes is sunk down about 1.5 inches so while this might not make sense when you hear it here, once I attach and share pics it should help.

    [​IMG]
    • Like Like x 3
  11. gigi

    gigi Active Member

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    Curved guide are very,very and very expensive. Last year I asked for them to me friend that have relations with rollon and he told me that 100cm of linear guide may cost more than 700/800 euro!
    • Informative Informative x 1
  12. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    Yeh, not completely giving up on the thought for now. I believe if I can sketch out the length and ark that I could bend some stock steel to achieve what I needed or perhaps print tracks in sections. Creating the slide out of aluminum and ball bearings wouldn't be that large of an issue.

    Im going to experiment with my trucks and wheels idea first and see where that gets me. That will let me know my next step.
  13. gigi

    gigi Active Member

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  14. gigi

    gigi Active Member

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    solution to which I had thought for Tl and calendering of a tube on which to slide the concave rubber wheels. I did calandrare a tube but as has been made clear calendering the tube still undergoes a small deformation in its diameter
    • Like Like x 1
  15. gigi

    gigi Active Member

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    Another solutiont for Tl is calendering of a tube on which to slide the concave rubber wheels. I did calandrare a tube but as has been made clear calendering the tube still undergoes a small deformation in his diameter
  16. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    oooo I like that! I have access to a tubing bender as well, I certainly could bed a bit of round bar stock much easier. I printed a CNC machine and I think I could use those type of roller guides
  17. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    These rolled in today...gonna take the top part off, single bolt,,,then they will set pretty low profile. Seem to roll pretty smooth. With any luck I get this done this weekend.
    [​IMG]
    • Like Like x 2
  18. crammy

    crammy Active Member Gold Contributor

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    I would be worried about flat spots on those wheels though mate. At least you can change them if you get issues.
  19. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    Traction loss motor arrived today...

    [​IMG]
    • Like Like x 3
  20. PiaMan

    PiaMan Active Member

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    I used steel roller bearings. They are cheap and roll great on cutting boards although I think I'll change to steel plates but I've had the cutting boards on for a year. I can move my rig with my pinkie finger without me in it. On the front I used an 1100lb castor swivel and removed the wheel. I welded a cradle about 2ft long that my two inch front cross beam sits in and is held with bolts. Total cost was $20 for the bearing and $15 for the castor so your way seems like a lot of expense and engineering to get the curved radius with the pivot points. Can't imagine it being much smoother with more moving points and your motor has to provide power to move laterally and bend the flange joints which seems like lost energy to me. I'm certainly no engineer though so maybe you're onto something im missing the advantage of

    I'll be watching your progress. Best wishes
    • Like Like x 1