The easy way to build a 2 DOF motion simulator for ~$550 USD

So I started and am working on a motion simulator that will cost me about $550 USD!
Specifications:
2x 12 linear actuators capable of lifting 200lbs at 9mm /sec
.125 1 square tubing
17 DOF front and back 17+DOF left to right
Logitech G25 steering wheel and pedal set
AMC 1.5 Board by thanos
Dual H-bridge By thanos
2x 2x6 wood planks for the base
Playseat Classic Gaming seat

So I started out on here... with NO idea how to do any of this.... and now I know exactly from step 1-done! It was a lot of time doing research for parts, since there are very few off the shelf parts for this. I thought about using wiper motors, but I wanted more umph. I've used window motors for robotics before and they seemed lacking for this project. I've actually had about 3-4 years experience with similar motors to what everyone here is using. I looked into other motors, but decided that linear actuators are the best bet. They are designed for moving things, nor will I have any issues since they are designed to handle massive weights! I also don't have to buy additional universals and weld onto the window motor, which I believe would be one of the first things to fail and also hard to do for an inexperienced welder.
I started with no plans, just a tape measure and my mind. The result is this chassis....
The square section is to support and bolt to the seat while the extended portion is to hold up the pedals and wheel.


Weld Close-up!

part of the Idea....


Driveshaft plus terrible mock base

I then asked myself what is a cheap and reliable source to move this unit. I thought drive shaft. Any driveshaft works since they all are heavy duty. Mine was from a 1980's volvo and the wall diameter was about .083 inches... which is more than enough for what I want. So I welded that on and here is what it looks like atm.... You can get one for about $20(mine was free), which is what I unnecessarily spent on the cutting of my tubing ($24 for materials and $24 for cuts that I coulda done myself!

I finished pricing and ordering all of the electronics today for the two boards. For anyone curious stateside the cost is about $160 inc shipping. Here's the parts list along with the part numbers from digikey.com That'll save you about 6 hours worth of searching for part #'s and etc... Granted, that some modification to the molex adapters may be necessary (very minor though), but it was the cheapest and easiest method by far. It's in excel 2007 and in .txt

I also got the actuators from autopartshaus on ebay. Just PM him and work out something... I bypassed ebay, paid him $103 and got 2 actuators shipped that'll be more than what I need!
Note: The best way to but this metal is with reciprocating saw, bi-metal blade @ the highest TPI possible!

Go to a local weld shop for the steel and ask for 1 tubing from .083 to .125. You'll need about 20' of it. They'll also weld it up for you, but welding it yourself is MUCH cheaper and more of a learning experience! Be sure to get the correct rods!

The electronics and the actuators are in the mail as of tomorrow... so I guess early next week I'll have an update....

Feel free to ask me questions!

:hi: Just my 2 cents worth again but, you may be disapointed with the speed of your linear actuators , the optimum minimum speed would appear to be in excess of 150mm/sec as used by the guys here, i may be wrong though , as for the rest your on solid ground and looks good. 8)

Cool... Not sure about the actuator speed.

Also seems like the G25 and Playseat Classic uses up most of you $550 budget. Are those included in your cost?

Quick tip , you might wannabe swap the Univerasl joint around as your pivot point will be higher and more responsive .. Just a Thought -)

the G25 is not included in the cost, but the seat is. I know that the linear actuators move really slow, I plan on decreasing the distance from the universal. The output of the motor in Newtons is the similar to that of an SCN5, but it's geared down. Decrease the radius, decrease the torque, but increase the speed.


What do you mean swap the universal joint around? Like have the bolted portion on the frame? not a bad thought, but I think it'd be more than what is necessary. I get more than 17 degrees each way, but I think any more and I'd be too high off the ground, and that'd be a bit too intense.... considering the Blue tiger only goes 20 degrees, I think 17 is plenty, and if not I have some more play. I understnad what your saying though.

yeah defintley speed issue. get some scn5's

Can you find them for sub $200 even?

ermm second hand maybe. there is alot of frex users out there and i know there were some discount offer ones available at this site but they all went. i buyed new ones and i've had them for about 4 months and ive not even put them on my simulator. i just have them on the desk and i watch em like a geek. im waiting for some brackets for my seat to i can hook them on.

Just save up while your finishing your project then take it from there.

Ya. Good idea. Today's the PCB board production and population =)

I know that the linear actuators move really slow, I plan on decreasing the distance from the universal. The output of the motor in Newtons is the similar to that of an SCN5, but it's geared down. Decrease the radius, decrease the torque, but increase the speed.

I think thats a great idea. Let us know how it turns out... I am in the market to buy actuators in november and want more options before I buy the same one everyone else uses on here...

I solveld the problem of the wiper motor by a selfmade actuator (about 22cm linear with same torque). Have a look into my picture galery.

Does any know a turnkey service for building a project to spec?
which commercial turnkey system would you buy? budget is 10-15 thousand U.S.