Some ebay motors

There are 2 sized possible @Ryuuken29 , either 1/2" OR 12mm, Cant be both. And i do NOT suggest using a 12mm axle in a 1/2" hole, You cant do it the reverse, So just make sure to get the proper diameter.

Hello Pari
Sorry for the late. The power write on the motor (50W) It's a mistake. I try the motors, for 12V I use 26A for the max torque that I mesured 18Nm. P=UI = 320W real.
the motors use 50W about 4A without load (I mesured it). I put a controller between the battery and the motors.
I just finish to control them. I Put potentiometer on the back with an arduino controler and it look like good. Very reactive.
I mesured real 40kg with a lever arm 4.5cm. It's more than a lot of motor I tried. For the moment I don't try it on a simulator.

Sorry, I cannot believe this. The specs, diameter, gear, all these facts show an other reality.
PS: I have seen on ebay equal motors, they draw max. 10A, so we are at 120,0 Watt max. BTW this is the max. power, not the continuous power we need for simulation.

Strange, I mesured it.
The spec of the constructor is 28Nm, and the same current that I used. Perhaps the motors can't works a long time... but I try them during 10mn and they don"t warm.

For me the most important are the reality, no only the spec...

Hello,
I just finish my simulator with this motors.
they works good.

I mesured the curent: it's 45A max for the 2 motors.
One motor warm a little after 20mn game



I have 6.5cm "lever arm" "moment arm" I don't know the name in english. This afternoon I try with second option 8.5 cm. Like you can see on the photo I have a second option.

Nice rig, But not likely the Wiper's will be able to deal with much more "lever length" 6.5cm is the same as I run with 2X as powerful motor's on a Seat mover setup. Your seriously over working the wipers with those levers.

... and I expect no aggressive movements due to the fact that the motors are overloaded. Dear @nikitojm I respect your great work but there is a long experience which says there is a divergence between the specs and your measurements. I would like to see a video soon which is much appreciated.

This is interesting the "65mm CTC" lever. I recall @eaorobbie has it on his 200 watt motor , JRK seat mover. So he has precise movement with speed. And as its a seat mover, its light enough overall.
And I believe @noorbeast is preaching the 65mm CTC as well. Not sure why though.......theres experience builders here that would differ.
What Ive noticed and read , with a bit of calculation, that 65mm CTC is not good more all situations.
For instance, Im runing 40 mm CTC levers on seat mover with planned JRKS, and I should hit 300mm Per second linear.
I believe the "base" is 200mm per second linear.
Also saying that, I am aware that wipers do not have the power of some of the larger motors people use, so and expected trade off of speed and torque would happen.

Hey, I may have got my info wrong, just what I have read in other threads, no I dont have links. Anyway, carry on, Id better not hijack this thread for the wrong reason.
@nikitojm , nice sim you have built, good luck with it.

Here the vidéo test with crash, exit road,..On race07
CTC 6.5 cm

Pic power 600W, pic Amp 49A
The motors warm at 40°C after 20mn playing.

Hi @nikitojm, your rig is almost very promising, good work so far. There are some minor points which honestly I would like to point out:
1. The joint shows some slackness, too weak or not stiff enough.
2. The seat is sticked/mounted too high over the joint which results in a wider radius of the movement to the left/right side which are not real.
3. The speed and reaction time is not bad (I dunno your SimTools/SMC settings), but the 600W seeing on the display is way too high for the standard movements, probably this is the max. output but I have my doubts, perhaps the multimeter shows wrong values.. If you want to test and confirm these values you can use a car fuse between the PSU and the MMs - lets say 15A - and ride your rig until the fuses blows...
NTL you have a nice working rig, now you can spend a lot of time on the optimization

It moves, Thats the important part.......little tip, DO NOT use a Stiff F1 car for base profile testing, It wont do you any good. A street car or Mild race car (GT'ish) will be a much easier to tun your profile and Tuning center #'s around.

Also the older games dont have As Nice of motion as the newer stuff does.

congrats! it's alive!!

I'm doubtful about the motor mount with only 2 holes... it will wear and fatigue the motor body.

Si le moteur n'est tenu que par 2 vis, je pense que le bâti va souffrir et l'alliage moulé va finir par craquer sous la fatigue.

Thank you for your help.
RacingMat, I know for the 2 holes, it just to try the ebay motor.

Merci RacingMat pour tout vos super tuto!!!
Je n'ai mis que 2 vis mais le support moteur appuis sur ma cornière de fixation qui est du 5mm. Mais c'est juste pour essayer.
J'ai fabriqué le simulateur en seulement 3 jours (j'avais déja préparé les moteurs). Il y a encore beaucoup de modifications à faire.
@Pit I put the seat more back and it's better.
I control the curent again. Like I said 49 A it's the maximum current (600w) during a big movement. During a normal race I use just 1A for 6mn playing, around 10A, 120W.
I try with other game and other car, it's better on durt.