Sebj - 8020 - Seat Mover with Traction Loss

Quick Thank you to @Nick Moxley for spending some time with me today on skype to explain a few things and answer questions!

@noorbeast is there a guideline concerning height of CV relative to the motor shaft? On a seat mover like mine.

if you are asking about this

i have it at the same hight. may not look like in the photo but they are.

i did it like that on my own but i would like to know too what would be better for our use to be same, higher or lower? @bsft could you help here as you have gone through some builds?

@insanegr exactly what I was asking, thank you for recognizing that and posting a picture.

Hi there, I was having a think, this is more or less how ive built my stuff.
Motors stay as low as possible to the base, mostly because of bracket flex and also to keep them neat.
Pivot is as high as possible under the seat as its the best place for getting the seat to balance in motion. Dunno why,I was told to do that, so I did, and it works fine

although a low cut pivot is just fine depending on the build planned
yes I am up to something.
Although saying about motor placement, with my brickie actuators, obviously I could not mount them lower down, the small unis are above the pivot height

Get the uni right under as much as possible.
Dave.

Brikie sim pivot.

I use a 40A 12V relay and it is big enough for both of my motors

hey @Avenga76

It does seem like the motors dont draw 15Amps then 90%+ of the time. Based on your feedback and Barry's it seems they likely draw 10-12Amps. I wanted to know this because I will have long-ish wire runs as my power supplies and JRKs will be in a case away from the chassis. From Barrys feedback it seems 14 gauge wire will do. As long as I can fit 12 gauge into the JRK's then I may go with 12AWG.

I have also changed my wiring diagram, i will post later. I removed all my relays and will be using a eStop connected to the PSU's directly on the suggestion of @Nick Moxley

I would say 10-12A per motor would probably be right most of the time.

I just tested it again with my small motors and combined it was using between 15-30A when measured at my shunt. You can't really see the big spikes just using a multimeter because they are too quick, if I connect up the oscilloscope then you would see the big 70A per motor spikes.

The reason I went with relays is that I didn't want live power going all the way to the front of my rig. The kill switch on the top of my controller box is wired up directly to the live feed but the kill switch at the front of my rig is wired up through a relay.

I started a few things. Still waiting on some electronic connectors before I start the electronic build.

I removed the handle and purple clamp piece off the PSUs.



I also swapped the gear in one of the gear motors. It was actually quite difficult as the ball bearing loops were really wedged in there so had to finesse those out and also getting the thing back together was a challenge due to a rubber piece moving around that sits in the connector to the gear/motor housings. After some frustration I did manage to get it all back together again.



Bought myself a new soldering iron on sale 0-60W adjustable and a third hand as well. Looking forward to the electronics.

Here is my updated wiring diagram.

I took out the relays and I am connecting the eStop to the PSU's via a CAT5 cable. This will allow me to run minor V and A to the eStop to turn the PSU's off when needed.

This really simplifies things. I will also likely use 12AWG wire for the main wiring (PSU->JRK->motors). Every wire will have a connector built into at the motor or Pot and at the case.

An update.

I started doing some electrical items. I soldered up the GND and +12V terminals on the PSUs and setup the JRK's including heat sinks. I bought the heat sink in one piece so ended up having to cut three pieces. Now deciding on mounting hardware for the JRKs and then finish up the wiring.
I had a custom backplate water jet cut for the case to handle the connectors.
I'm posting a pic of the Enzotech heatsink if anyone wants to get one. It is all copper and long enough to make 4 or 5 little heatsinks for the JRK.

That is really impressive wiring. Puts mine to shame.

Thanks. One of my friends is an electrical engineer so I got him to build my control box for me. He is really great at wiring.

Today I have the universal joint welded to two plates for mounting. Big thanks go out to @Steve spenceley for this.
The distance between the two plates is 4 1/4 inches. The universal is cut as close as possible and welded to the plate that will rest at the bottom of the seat.

gg on the u-joint.

Such a strong part eliminates almost all rigidity issues.

I wish every sim builder had access to one of these.

No need for stability/flex bars and cleaner construction.

Been making connectors and completing PSU cabling.

What do you HP PSU guys do not turn off fan when PSU is 'off'?
Fan keeps spinning when plugged in.

Thanks to @Steve spenceley I have my universal complete. I need to clean it up and spray paint it. I find the universal has different extremes in the X and Y axes. Looks like I can get is 10.4 degrees to 27 degrees. Means the thing is limited to 10.4 degree movement in my roll axis. I think thats fine unless you guys say I need more.
It is 1.75 inches from the top to the center and height is 4inches overall.


I am close to completeing electronics. PSUs are all wired up and the JRKs I mounted on a piece of wood I had with rubber feet that are for mounting hard drives in my case. I put small finishing nails to hold them in place and it works just perfectly.



I made all the connectors from parts as well.



Ordered CV1 ! coming in May