Sebj - 8020 - Seat Mover with Traction Loss

Thanks guys..i will keep this in mind..i have not even looked at the "instructions" yet

Hey Seb
I'm keen on seeing your 'little' project evolving ;-)
I got myself a lazy susan bearing initially, but changed it for this one then:

The reason for changing was just the mounting - access is very easy from the top and the holes are even tapped. It's ultra heavy duty (max load 600kg) and has 2 rows of ball bearings. Adopting a radius of 35mm the max travel of the balls is only 2mm in each direction and for that reason I expect pretty much zero noise.

Not too expensive either - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260463776189?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Hey @Thirsty ! I'm keen on seeing it myself I will be going with the flange idea, they are about $20 CDN so they dont break the bank.

Here is my plan for attaching the traction loss to the bottom floor. Custom steel plates, rod end.

Here is the design for the motor mounts, pot mount and levers. I'm going with 65 CTC. I have rod ends so the picture here doesnt reflect them.

The motor mounts go lower and bolt onto the side of the 8020 profile, in case you're wondering how they are attached. I've also redesigned the middle which opens the hole for the drive shaft to 50mm to accomodate the shape of the gear motor.

Hey @noorbeast you can thank @Steve spenceley for the awesome renderings!

I will be using rod ends just like in the traction loss rendering...that rendering is not updated to show it but great advice for those going with rose joints.

I'll ensure we have a spacers so any bolts dont hit the mount..thanks for noticing.

Another rendering for the underside to show motor mounting for traction loss and how it runs. I expect to use a 105mm CTC arm likely for traction loss. Again, using rod ends which are not represented in the rendering.

I've been working on the electrical wiring diagram. I'm new to relays and eStops but used a couple diagrams from the forum. I have attached my preliminary schematic. Could you guys have a look to see if I'm ok? I'm going to house all the components in a case and run the wires via connectors to the motors and Pots .. and the eStop on the chassis.

Can you check the wire gauge, if I wired up the eStop correctly to stop the JRKs, I want the fans to run when eStop is pressed.

Also how do you guys normally switch the units on? I'll have mine in a case so I'd like to have one switch that turns on the power supplies and turns them off. Any suggestions how to wire it up?

Are these the correct relays to use ? 40A 12V
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/12-volt-relay/A-p8603797e

Can someone vet my wiring diagram? .. please

@bsft or @eaorobbie would be the experts on JRK wiring. Does this guide help: http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/playseat-to-2-dofseat.5401/page-2#post-56352

Hi @Barry , I used that guide and a few other diagrams such as yours, they were immensely helpful. I just wanted someone to look at my diagram to see if I had made any mistakes or used the wrong gauge of wire in my wire runs before I commit myself to doing the electronics.

i haven't used relays on my sim but the thing you have to consider is how many Amps will go through the relays contact. i think the car relay you posted above will do the job.
wiring is ok and like that you can kill your motors without killing the fans.
one thing i would change is that i would use the same AWG for GND and + from PSU to JRK's.

I would assume the largest current draw is the wires to the motors in most people's sims.
I've put a couple of huge cables on my main power supply connections and everything else will be a similar or slightly smaller gauge than the wires that came on the motors. Fingers crossed everything should be fine.

I used to be good at all this electronics stuff when i was at school but that was a long time ago. I need to get back to my Ohms Law and figure it all out again.

Thanks @insanegr and @Barry

I'll modify then the return/ground wires to 8 gauge, perhaps 8 is overkill and I should go with just 10. I assume the gauge of the other wires is ok then.

Seb we should have a convo on skype about the Kill switch, You have the 600pb's, there a stupid easy way to wire it with using the "turn On to ground" lead on the PSU, Use the kill Switch to make those 3 connection's....Only down side is the fan's will stop working if your powering those off the PSU's....if you really really want the fans to keep going, add them of their own 12v wall plug with a custom dash switch....I honestly dont find myself hitting the "kill switch" too often at all. so having the fans turn off temporarily is no big deal for me.


Also your big thick a** lever, U think you could tap that and loose the nut on the back side ?

Hi @Nick Moxley , I added you on skype so we can connect.

That lever and drawing is more concept. I will have rod ends there so no nut.