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Sebj - 8020 - Seat Mover with Traction Loss

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Sebj, Oct 23, 2015.

  1. Sebj

    Sebj Active Member

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    Hi Everyone,

    I thought it was about time I started this official build thread after reading and researching for the last 6 months. I have drawn a lot of inspiration from all of you, not to mention design ideas, gotchas and best practices. I am appreciative of the openness of the community and it has given me the courage to take on this project...plus what else am I going to do in the winter :)

    I am not new to sim racing but new to motion so this is a first project for me and an ambitious one at that. I've been an active member on ISRTV forums and it wasn't until I started catching some threads last year mainly by MotionDave and @Nick Moxley that caught my interest in a seat mover. I had been very focused on a Dbox but once I started researching it was obvious a seat mover was more effective at transmitting what a driver feels behind the wheel...and not to mention much much more cost effective.

    My current rig is a DIY wooden one, you can see it on ISRTV, which I've been very happy with especially with 4 transducers running Simvibe and triple screens. My goal was to build on this and improve immersion as much as possible. Eventually moving on to an OSW wheel and a VR headset.

    My end goal for the rig is to have a modern frame that can be easily augmented with additions of new equipment and offers tons of flexibility in placement and architecture. To that end, I've been fortunate to be-friend an ISRTV community member @Steve spenceley who's been instrumental in the design aspect of the rig. He has his own site and can build many things for sim racers including things like button boxes - which I'll have him make for my new Mod27D 290mm also coming soon. Steve will be helping me through the design and assembly process and assist with welding the seat joint and couple other pieces.

    The rig is about 95% complete in design and I've begun sourcing parts and electronic components. So far I have the following items:

    2x 25:1 gear motors for the shoulder mounts
    1x 50:1 gear motor for RTL
    3x JRK 12v12
    2x flange bearing for front pivot
    4x Casters for RTL
    3x HP Proliant DL380 G4 Server Power Supply Module DPS-600PB 321632-501
    3x Potentiometers
    3x Couplers
    1x Universal Joint (kijiji.ca)
    6x Rod ends
    1x Emergency stop with extra NC
    1x CoolerMasterElite 130 Case

    I still need to source cables, connectors, and other miscellaneous items for the electrical and hardware for the rig itself.

    Any ideas on connectors for power supplies, pots, etc are very much welcome. I have a few but I'm sure I have missed some. My idea is to have all components in the CoolerMaster case and connect the motors and pots via cables, so proper connectors that latch or screw on are desired.

    rig prototype.JPG
    rig prototype2.JPG

    Any ideas and/or criticisms are more than welcome.

    I expect to update the build as I go but a realistic expectation is that it will be complete in the next 4-6 months.

    That's it for now! I look forward to sharing this with everyone and inspiring new sim racers!

    Sebj
    • Like Like x 12
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    Last edited: Oct 27, 2015
  2. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR - The Next Generation Staff Member Moderator SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    A well documented and planned sim. That will certainly pay off.
    • Agree Agree x 3
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2015
  3. Wanegain

    Wanegain Active Member

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    Very good project !
  4. f1iceman

    f1iceman Why So Serious ? ( The Joker )

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    brilliant a very informative post for any one starting too with all those links to compliment a build and cut a lot of time for parts needed :)
    be great to see when done :)
  5. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Recognized your name from isrtv, it's about time you showed up here.!
    • Like Like x 1
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  6. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, JRK
    When you mod the psu's, I ran the pins you need to short to a telephone Junction box. Then I ran telephone cord up to toggle switches by the wheel. Turn on the switches, and it arms your psu's with 12 volt. I also used the telephone boxes to run off jrk's to my hall sensors. IMG_0068_zps7c1f948b.jpg
    • Informative Informative x 1
  7. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    • Informative Informative x 2
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  8. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    While that did work at a point I dont particularly suggest running simtools down that far in the Main %. Its a Cover up for bigger underlying issues with the setup imo, and really does tweek with the data your being fed.
  9. Sebj

    Sebj Active Member

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    Thanks for the info. Yeah, I've been reading this forum for a while and making a notebook online of build notes etc. At first it was very intimidating to start this project but it all is coming together.
    • Like Like x 2
  10. Sebj

    Sebj Active Member

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    Today I was at Princess Auto to purchase the lazy susan turntable for the front pivot. I did not end up buying it because the bearings were too noisy so I ended up looking around and noticed flange bearings. This was once mentioned here on the site. The bearings are smooth and completely silent plus the hub provides mounting points. I will go with two of these and a metal pipe between them. They cost more but if it works it, they will be much better.

    http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51+M13lpDBL._SX342_.jpg

    front bearing pivot.JPG
    • Like Like x 1
  11. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    With your 80/20 design i could actually see the Lazy susan being a little louder than my setup with it fully encased in the frame itself. I honestly cant hear the bearing, But can appreciate the want to run something like a Flanged bearing, Thats exactly what im doing for buddy's 50:1 setup.
  12. Sebj

    Sebj Active Member

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    @Nick Moxley how did you mount it? To prevent it from 'wobbling ' in the hub
  13. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Easy way to do it. VW MK5 Jetta/Golf, 4 bolt hub bearing. It comes in the carrier. All you need is something to bolt it to. No need to make a shaft or find something custom to fit it. Just use the standard drive shaft outer CV and oem bolt (black one in the pic) on the end to stop the bearing seperating in the middle and you're done (you can cut it down a bit to get rid of the larger end of the CV). 5 bolt holes on one side, 4 on the other (all threaded).... done.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2015
  14. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    And compared to most bearings, these hub bearings actually run extremely quiet because they're greased and sealed.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Its not built yet, but was planning on having the Bearing on the bottom TL frame and the Top using a piece of 1 1/16" pipe to act as the pivot, then using the castor's on all 4 corner's to set the gap between the 2 frames.

    The cheap "Pillow block and Flanged" bearing's are all sealed bearing's and should be very quite as were Barely turning them when you think about it.
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  16. Sebj

    Sebj Active Member

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    Yes 100% silent

    That's how I'm building the pivot too.
  17. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    For future reference to anyone reading, Once loaded with weight, the Lazy susan doesn't make Near as much noise as when you first pick it up in your hands and the Intentional missing roller balls start rolling around as you try and feel/listen to the bearing in action. Once loaded and with the minimal degrees were actually using, the lazy susan is basically silent as well. you would have to be rather crazy to think a bearing will over power the miscellaneous sounds the motor/gearboxes make while in operation. Either way Flanged and Pillow block bearing's are cheap and Very easy to implement when building from scratch.
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  18. Sebj

    Sebj Active Member

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    Just received my JRKs...they are so small. Actually I think all the components are a lot smaller than I first imagined them from seeing pictures. Now its time to start doing the electrical connections and mounting it to the Elite 130 case.

    Any suggestions on what gauge wires to use between motor/jrk...pots/jrk...etc
  19. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Click the PSU Power and Motor wire connector thing's TOGETHER....caught me out on my first couple i did.
  20. Sebj

    Sebj Active Member

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    What do you mean 'click' them together?