Replace gears of my gearbox

I agree with what they other guys here have said. The amount of play you show in that video seems normal. In fact, one of my gearboxes is pretty much the same and was like that from the day I got them, brand new.

thanks for your support guys.
I tried to turn the handle 180 ° and the game is the same. this shows that the gear is not worn.
How can I intervene on simtools or about settings jrk to make the reaction of the engine a little less aggressive? pid?

You could play around in the tuning center of the game engine and put some higher numbers into some of the forces. But I believe lowering the duty cycle for the motor in the jrk config utility would work. @bsft is the guru on that and might have some better suggestions.

@gigi , please post screen shots of both motors and the utility page settings, especially PID and MOTOR tabs

I buy my engines with bronze gears but I have opened them and they are from delrin, they offer to send me the bronze ones but paying 25 pounds, I have refused since I consider a scam what they did and I want them for free, I already paid the shipping of the engines when you buy them ..
The question is if you notice any improvement if you change to bronze or if you are worse for a sim motion

I had your same problem, bought 4 engines that had to have gears in bronze only that 2 of these have gears in delrin. my problem is that I realized only one year after buying them.I reported the thing and I was offered the 2 gears in bronze complete with central pivot and bearings + transport costs + total tax £ 88. I bought them even if I do not find their post sales behavior correct.I should arrive on Monday 22.01.18.
I wanted to buy them only to keep them as spare because I think that apart from the problem you will read in next point 1) there are no other differences between the bronze gear and the one in delrin and with a little patience with the one with the other type of gear the problem can solve almost completely
So to answer the question ... better or worse ... bronze or delrin.The gears have the same dimension therefore the same coupling.Therefore the backlash is the same.

I have solved the backlash phenomenon at 80% and now I'll explain how:
If you open the box you realize that the backlash is determined by many small factors that added together to determine the problem:

The problem that I solved at point 1) is present in engines since new
1) The seat on which the worm screw bearings rest is imprecise and causes the worm screw to have a light play. Just remove the rear bearing and insert a washer with a thickness of mm into the pin. 0.5. In this motion the worm screw even if subjected to intense wheel effort but does not move backwards on its axis. This is the main action to be done and solve 50% of backlash of motorgearbox
This problem

The problems indicated in the points 2), 3) and 4) are not present in the new engines but are created after a while of use and if they are not eliminated they are destined to increase more and more.

2) Delrin gears are attached to an aluminum flange with rivets
Under strain these rivets create a slack and the gear has a slight play compared to the flange. In this case I solved by eliminating the rivets. I threaded the holes in the gear and replaced the rivets with screws. The gears in bronze not have this problem

3) The flange has a hole inside which the engine pin passes and is locked with a key with the use and under stress even here a small game is created. I solved by inserting a small thickness that I made with a piece of harmonic steel that I obtained from an old flexible meter that as you know is made of harmonic steel and has a thickness of a few tenths of a millimeter

4) The gear unit connects to the motor through a spider coupling set. If you look closely at this pairing with the use buy some game. also in this case to eliminate it I inserted small pieces of harmonic steel taken from an old flexible meter.

I conclude by saying something important. I'm not an expert but I think that a certain looseness in these gearmotors is necessary precisely to prevent them from breaking. I preferred to eliminate them completely, hoping that only the rubber present in the spider coupling sets can absorb the repercussions and prevent everything from breaking. Currently my engines have a really reduced game and my SIM has gained a lot of feeling because now it feels a lot more the minimum movements that were lost before.
What remains to be verified is whether these solutions that I have adopted and that have really reduced my backlash do not lead with the use to the break of the reducer. I do not think so because I am absolutely convinced that the lids that I have eliminated were defects in the design and construction of these gearmotors and do not want to be deliberately taken by the manufacturer to absorb the power of the engine.
Time will answer me

And in the coupling of the engine to the gearbox you did not have games, my couplings move sideways, they are going to send me some new ones but I do not think they last long without a game, I think I will put a screw tightening coupling, the bad is that these couplings are not almost elastic and will be very rigid