RafBR 2DOF Wiper Motor Cockpit

:hi: Igor,
I think my pc don't have serial output!
Look the pic:


I will not buy that cable. Instead i will ask the vender if it's FTDI or PROLIFIC based! ;D

You said that x-simulator works in windows seven64, that is really good so i don't have to configure network between win 7 and vista.

Thank you!

:hi:
I was reading the Tronicgr DSMhb1.2b manual and i came with a few doubts :?
Thanos first says that DSMhb1.2b is designed to handle 12v, but can handle larger motors too(200W or 24v25A).
Then in FAQ Thanos says that is a good idea to install 10 amp fuses per motor.

Well, if possible, i want to give the motors all the current they can handle (up to 15A max each motor i think, maybe a little less).

So how it will be with the 10 amp fuses (DSMhb1.2b FAQ)?

Other question is about the power source. I would have to by two bateries with less than ten amp (lets say 7 amp)?
So i will not be close to the 15 amp that I wanted to deliver to each wiper motors.

:

Just drill them out after you hacksaw/grind the original lever arms off. Thats what I did, then I found bolts the size of the hole I drilled to fit the tie rods.

I built a power supply with a transformer and a rectifier bridge, but you can also use a car battery ... with respect to fuses, start with 10 amp, it should work correctly, if the structure is balanced, your engine will consume about 5 Amp ...

Regards

:hi:
Video preview update for concept2 cockpit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0YmzDU8ukw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAttezdGoh8

I think that i can do it without the 3rd actuator because the frame can work for both situations.
I just have to do it without the wheels and fixate it straight into the base and put the 3rd actuator and wheels when i want it.
Is there anyone that think it could work?

:

Have youu thought about the motion profile for this? It would be quite difficult. It is very common to brake and turn at the same time. In your design, tghe actuator angles are changing under braking and acceleration which would cause a your lateral movements to be variable based in the longitudinal g-forces.

It might be better if you moved the rear actuator mounting points along with the seat.

About COM ports,
I know that you can't see DB9 connector among other ports on the back of your motherboard, but I was thinking about this:



I think this clearly explains what I mean, you just need to look for pinheader connector on your MB (it has COM text printed beside it). If you can't find this, forget it and buy usb2serial cable or adapter.
I've seen many new motherboards that have this ability. Some models come with this bracket (packed in the MB box), and for some you need to buy it separately.

About the 24V, I think that you need to use some other motor driver instead of Thanos's HB.
Regarding PSU, the best way is to use big batteries (they can give you almost unlimited amounts of current but in this case it is wise to implement FUSES - start with 10A).
I've seen people using all kind of PSUs, I'm using standard PC ATX PSU (actually two of them).

:hi:
Thank you very much again fermevc!

I found the com port in the mainboard and now i just have to buy the IDC10 / DB9 cable.
You saved me a lot of headache and money in the last few days.
First i almost bought the wrong cable (prolific), and after that, i almost bought the FTDI $42,50.
This adapter $3 might work:
http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB- ... -chips-_JM
Look that it's female output so it might work with my RGB male cable, right? :?

About Power Supply!
I dont want to use 24v motor, i refer to the 25 amps Thanos says that HB can handle.
I want to deliver at least 10 amp to each motor (two 15 amp batteries) so it will burn the 10 amp fuse.

And why you say to use other motor driver? Anyway I will have to stick (i think) with Thanos HB. I each it and it's almost done!

:hi: bvillersjr, thanks for your reply!
No i did not think about motion profiler yet. In fact i will have to see it soon.
My idea is to make it as simple as possible. The rear actuators should use the same profile the SimforceGT does and the center actuator would use the accelerate/brake information from the rear actuators.
Is it possible?

regards

Unfortunately, you can't use RGB male connector because I think it has 3 rows of pins.
Don't worry if you can't find male DB9 bracket, you can always find appropriate extension cable or make it your self.
It doesn't matter if it's male/female or male/male, you just need to make it straight (pin1 > pin1, ...)

Just use 10A fuses until you sort all other things, later you can put higher A fuses.
Did you try and test your motors? They shouldn't draw more than 6-8A under load. How did you come up to 15A?
I just wanted to say, if you are using high capacity batteries, be careful as they can supply large amounts of current.
Opposite to car batteries, PSUs have internal protection circuits, so if motors draw too much current or block for some mechanical reason, this protection should kick in.

:hi: Igor,
Have you seen the link that shows the bracket? If i understood, that is ok!
I will find the right cable, straight db9 male>db9 female.

Yes I tested my motors and they run smooth but i can't measure how much they draw.
In fact I tested here and it shows 7.2A (no load) but as my nobreak battery is rated at 12v/7A i supose that if i had a more powerful battery this measure would rise.
And I got the information max 15 amp on the web. Someone tested a wiper motor and the results are about 4-5A no load and almost 15A load. Of course not exactly my wiper motor but another.
I wanted to use PCU's but that's more complicated to me.

regards

I've seen your picture, and it is FEMALE DB9. On AMC you also have FEMALE DB9 connectors, so you'll obviously need MALE-MALE straight serial cable.
I was thinking of using batteries for my sim (I even acquired two 70Ah ). If my motors draw 10A during load, I could use my sim for a couple of hours. Take into concern the fact that depending on track layout, motors are consuming different amounts of current, so I suppose what could happen is one battery is discharged faster than the other and motors will start to behave strange.
Frakk told me earlier to try and use computer PSU to charge the batteries, so the voltage can't drop below 12V, which is a good tip imo.
Anyway, we all need to try different things and share the experience with the community.
BR, Igor

I will make the cable myself ( IDC10 > DB9 male) , and connect it straight to the motherboard.

Igor,
I wish i could do the charger to batteries but it would be another problem for me to solve now. Trust me, it's not been easy at all to put all these information into my brain. :no:

So I am also looking for other kind of power source. There are a lot of specifications available to connect straight to the wall.
29A $100,00.
21A $64,00.
10A $55,00.
Which should I buy?


Should I buy 2x 10A power sources?
Because am wondering that if one motor is stopped maybe the power source would deliver to one motor all the 29A, and would burn it's 10A fuse. Is this correct?

regards :thbup:

21A... A few more amps doesn't justify the extra money for it. And most wiper motors don't draw more than 12 Amps and that only when they start from full stop! Normal operating amps are about 4 to 6 amps.

:hi:
I have made a few tests with wiper motors and ATX power source.
I got a little confused with the results, so i made some videos showing what happened.
Here they are:
ATX deliver 12v with no motors running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Em5NBTs4AIQ
ATX with one motor running voltage drops to 9.2v
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tl7oeS3gj8c
ATX with two motors
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1DhzU0spzo
I would not say that this ATX is high-end.

Is ok voltage to drop?
It is ok wiper motors smells like hot electronics when running?

:

I'm so confused now :?
Your motors are very fast compared to mine. I suppose you've connected them properly and that you've used the connection for second (faster) speed.
Even if the sticker on your PSU is a marketing trick it should manage to provide steady 12V under 15A load (the value of 39A on the sticker could be for short time loads). So, either your motors are some kind of beasts, or PSU is bad. Can you make a video with one motor connected and running and show us current consumption using same instrument (it should be able to measure 10A)?

The picture showing connections to HB is OK.

Hi Igor,
I don't think I have the two speed option on this motor because I can't see wires for it. Maybe delivering half voltage?

So it's what I did. I have tested with my ATX with 5v output.
Here is the result:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4k6jBBuHcs

After that I tested ATX with 12v.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMxVJv1OObs

And finally I used my nobreak 7A/12v battery:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzuCmBgE660

In this last test I checked the amperes with my multimeter (almost melted the red and black test lead wires in 25s test). I did not test this with ATX because it could burn my 10Amax multimeter, I think!

regards

If you analyse what ATX PSU is you will see that its only switching power supply. Like giving the power in PWM pulses to maintain proper voltage for the logic circuits of computer.

That's why I prefer the raw power of a car battery! Its not going to drop the voltage that much!

So if I buy the 21A power supply that was mentioned before would it be like the ATX PSU? :?

I think that the basics for mentioned 21A PSU and PC ATX PSU are same. They are both SWITCHING POWER SUPPLY's.
Only difference is in power and extra voltages for PC components.
I agree with Thanos regarding the batteries, they can provide much more Amps than all PSU's mentioned.

:hi:
Is something in common in this two capacitors ?
For the AMC, can i use this ugly (bigger) capacitor instead of the small 122 ?
regards