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Ordered a 3d Printer today

Discussion in '3D Printing' started by hjr2, Jul 18, 2018.

  1. hjr2

    hjr2 Member

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    I found a good deal on a Monoprice Select Mini v2 and took the plunge. What software will I have to be learning to make parts?
  2. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR - The Next Generation Staff Member Moderator SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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  3. Spit40

    Spit40 VR Rift Flyer

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    Is the monoprice select mini v2 a good option for a first 3d printer? I find the choice available to be quite overwhelming and i don't know who the reputable brands are.
  4. hjr2

    hjr2 Member

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    I know how you feel. I've been perusing 3d printers for months now and couldn't make up my mind. It was a Prime Day special that showed up for $183, so I just jumped in . Worst case scenario, I can use this printer to make parts to make a better printer.
    Looking forward to some of the projects I've seen out there, and learning to make my own parts, tools etc.
  5. PiaMan

    PiaMan Active Member

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    Also you will likely need repetier-host to transfer your new designs to the printer.

    And a cheap micrometer to measure if you are designing your own parts.

    And if you havent already head over to thingiverse to start downloading designs that are ready to print
  6. hjr2

    hjr2 Member

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    I gotta tell ya boys. I'm hooked.
    IMG_1482.JPG SO far I've printed a box for my arduino and adafruit motorshield from here. Any setup tips to reduce those stringy fuzzies you see would be appreciated. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2781281
    IMG_1506.JPG
    IMG_1507.JPG
    A clamp wrench to crank down the Logitech DFGT https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2425190
    IMG_1503.JPG
    A GT2 Pulley that failed, then one that worked. I tried streaming the gcode for the failed part via USB. I'll just stick with the SD card for now. It is interesting to see the internal structure, and how it's adjustable. What a time to be alive.
    IMG_1502.JPG IMG_1501.JPG IMG_1500.JPG

    I have downloaded Fusion 360 and OpensCad. I can't describe the amazement I felt and still feel watching these things work. I imagine a future where manufacturing can be done from home and the plastic polluting the oceans can be farmed and recycled into new materials over and over. Just imagining.
    • Like Like x 2
  7. hjr2

    hjr2 Member

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    It also looks like my dream on having a dremel based CNC will come true because of this printer.
  8. hjr2

    hjr2 Member

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    I ran out of PLA and picked up 1kg of ABS and 1kg of PETG. They are noticeably more difficult to work with. I switched to blue tape with the PETG and ABS with better results than the tack paper or whatever came with the printer.

    Made a couple holders for my Dayton Audio pucks. A big improvement over mounting them on a board and screwing it to my chair.
    8C5F69C0-D55B-4770-93DC-0A1A03CBAEA5.jpeg

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 2
  9. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    petg is my go to filament.
  10. hjr2

    hjr2 Member

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    If you have any tips for printing PETG, let me know. I’ve been struggling getting the bed level and temperatures right. After reading a bunch of articles I get the sense it needs a little more space between the nozzle and bed, and temps around 230-260.
  11. pmvcda

    pmvcda Member

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    Hi,

    I find PETG easier than PLA.
    I'm no expert, but I usually achieve good results in my printer.
    Usually I use Devil Design PETG and my settings are:

    Blue tape in bed

    For the material:
    Diameter 1.75
    Flow 100%

    Initial layer:
    Print @ 240ºC
    Plate @ 80ºC
    Print speed 30mm/s

    Next layers:
    Print @ 235ºC
    Plate @ 75ºC
    Print speed 60mm/s

    Layer height 0.2mm
    Shell thickness 1.5mm
    With Print cooling
    Plate Adhesion with Brim of 6mm

    Hope it can help.
    • Like Like x 1
  12. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    i use hair spray on glass for adhesion. I'm printing .3 mm layers for most parts. I print a little hotter at 255c on the hotend and a 95c bed. i use the cheap petg from micro center.
    I use an old business card to set the height of the hotend manually after spraying and mounting the glass to the bed. i have about five pieces of glass that are the same so i only have to swap the glass if the print doesn't start well or if i am printing a number of parts.

    if the part has a smaller footprint and can finish in less than a hour a brim usually isnt needed. but for parts with a large footprint or that take more than three hours I use a brim.
    • Informative Informative x 1