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Showroom My 3 DOF seat mover + GS-4 + Simvibe

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Avenga76, Jun 29, 2014.

  1. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome. I will get them without the brake or lever. I will draw up some plans tonight and you can tell me what you think.
    • Like Like x 1
  2. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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  3. bsft

    bsft

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    12v miminum 13.8 better, minimum 500 watts power supply per motor. Use 2 power supplies.
  4. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    The motors are only 160 watt each. Would I need something as big as a 500 watt?

    The Jrk says it only handles "12 A maximum continuous current output (30 A peak)" A 12v 500w power supply is capable of doing over 40 amps. That means the most the Jrk can handle is a 12v 360w or a 13.8v 414w

    Something like a 350 watt 12v is only $100nzd http://nz.wellforces.com/meanwell-nes-350-12-power-supply-350w-12v-29a.html and a 500 watt is over $400nzd http://nz.wellforces.com/meanwell-usp-500-12-power-supply-500w-12v-42a-u-bracket.html

    They have a 13.5v 320w one for $150 http://nz.wellforces.com/meanwell-rsp-320-13-5-power-supply-320w-13-5v-23-8a-low-profile.html

    Here are a couple of 13.8v power supplies.

    20 amp (276 watt) $119nzd http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=MP3078

    40 amp (552 watt) $239nzd http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=MP3089

    The other option is run a lead acid battery and then use a charger.
  5. eaorobbie

    eaorobbie Well-Known Member Staff Member SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    At 160w this will draw an average of 13amps at 12v so by rule of thumb (not exact) we can expect a stall current of 26 amps so to be safe, as in not have the power supply shutdown because of high amp draw then a psu to drive to motors needs to output nearly 60amps , I personally get around this by using a DC battery that is wired in parallel with psu, or on my latest rig to show how simply it can be done a 13.8dc car battery and trickle charger, works well, just doesn't look fancy. I would use 2x led power drivers capable of pushing 30amps each minimum, nice cheap and are filtered and protected psu's
  6. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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  7. bsft

    bsft

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    look for 40 amps each, better to have too much power.
    Ive had my motors rated at 180 watts overdriven to 500 watt spikes.
    JRKS will run 30 amps continuous all day with 45 amp peaks no problems
  8. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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  9. bsft

    bsft

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    12v 40 amps just fine.
    I run 2 on the desk racer.
  10. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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  11. bsft

    bsft

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  12. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  13. Kirk

    Kirk Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Pair or DPS 600pb's here too, paid about $10 each, mod details available everywhere on the net. You can get them pre-modded for like $75 for a pair, if you are squeamish. They are MUCH smaller than they look in the photos.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  14. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Alongside a 120mm project box, So ya the supplies are rather small.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    • Like Like x 2
  15. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all your ideas. I work in IT, building and administering server, we use HP DL380's mostly and they would make a great power supply.

    After giving it some thought I think I am going to down the PSU + battery path. @eaorobbie Can you post me a link to how you did your PSU + Battery?

    I went down to have a talk to my fabrication guys about the project and they are keen to get started on it. I use the same guys who build my real world race cars and classic cars to build my rig so it is nice and strong.

    Been a bit too distracted to do up the plans. I just got my latest Sim Racing toy in the mail today. A set of DSD Wilwood pedals.

    [​IMG]
    • Winner Winner x 1
  16. eaorobbie

    eaorobbie Well-Known Member Staff Member SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    12v battery.jpg
    All switches have internal leds too hence a third connection per switch.
    Cut off switch only kills JRK's.
    I like to have my fans on separate switch to allow cooling after a long event.
    plus charger can be turned off if battery is full, now use a trickle charger so it cuts in and out when it see's fit, good motor home unit, nice and safe charging.
    Hope that helps.
    • Informative Informative x 2
  17. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome. That is really helpful. I like the idea of all the switches.

    How well does that battery last out if you are racing for extended periods, like a few hours?
  18. eaorobbie

    eaorobbie Well-Known Member Staff Member SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Without charger running about 4 hours notice a very slight slow about 6 hrs its noticeable.
    With charger running - unlimited, runs all day.

    To be safe place battery in a proper battery box and makes no sparks or open flames are near it if you may be using it for extended periods, beware over charging a battery is not good if need to charge overnight take the battery outside to charge.
  19. vulbas

    vulbas Active Member

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    very very good job :thumbs
  20. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks.

    I will run the battery in a battery box like I do in my road car. What size charger do you use?

    [​IMG]

    Got my new pedals installed

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]