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My 2DOF seat

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by MikeSchumy, Dec 11, 2017.

  1. MikeSchumy

    MikeSchumy New Member

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    Hello everybody!
    I've almost finished My 2DOF seat, with arduino, MM and RacingMat (thank you!) code:

    IMG_20171210_214225.jpg

    IMG_20171210_214236.jpg

    IMG_20171210_201800.jpg

    IMG_20171211_201215.jpg

    The problem is that i dont know how to attach the lever to the motor i've used that one in the last photo but the connection is not stiff enough.
    I think that i've to increase the distance between the motor, and the attach of the lever have to be shorter.

    this is the gear of the motor:
    Immagine_attacco_motore.png

    what kind of lever i've to use to make a very stiff connection to the motor shaft?

    I've got another question:
    These motors are 180W 12V 150 rpm, i'm using only one 360W 12V (the one in the photos) power supplier connected to the MM for both the motors, it is ok?

    thank you very much!!!
    • Like Like x 2
  2. Ads Master

    Ads Master

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  3. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    • Agree Agree x 1
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2017
  4. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Index Gold Contributor

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    @MikeSchumy - this is the design I came up with and had machined:

    77D07D7B-1809-4F15-ACC0-7011ECA08E17.jpeg 003AE91E-9735-4240-927E-19DB14D3B20D.jpeg

    It clamps around the output shaft and also uses a spring roll pin through the holes in the shaft. So far it’s been rock solid. 45 mm center to center. The only difference between the drawing and what rhe machinist did was he left a small bit of metal at the end of the slot away from the hole for the gearmotor output shaft to act like a pivot for the clamping action. The design as I drew it would eventually bend the tongs. His change made it where ther is no bending force - just clamping force. Not sure if that’s necessary or not but they have been rock solid.
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Gadget999

    Gadget999 Well-Known Member

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    its a nice design, simple and compact - can we see a video of it in use ?

    i suggest you make the shaft shorter and move the motors so they are wider
  6. absyfadhel1

    absyfadhel1 Member

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    hi i want your email or num or instagram to chat with you .... i want to know how did you connect ardino with monstermoto becuase i bought it yesterday and i dont know how to make it please tell me my instagram account is :" absyfadhel1"
  7. MikeSchumy

    MikeSchumy New Member

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    Thank you,
    I've another doubt i think to use a lever with 60 or 65 mm centre to centre is this too much or it is ok?

    @noorbeast - Thank you very much, I read that thread but there is no solution for me, i think that i'll approciate in a different way, my shaft is empty inside, i think that i will use a full iron rod (12 mm thick) with a hole to attach it at the shaft, welded to a thick lever to put inside the shaft.
    I will post a photo today or tomorrow, I think that will be a good solution.

    @Zed - very good solution! but my shaft is shorter than your and I have to make a 'rougher' solution I have only my grinder, my drill and my welder :)
    the distance center to center of 45 mm is enough? I think to make it 60 or 65 mm or it is too much?

    @Gadget999 - Thank you very much, I'm very happy that you like my work, I need a very compact RIG and i studied how to make it the smaller and the lightest possible. I will post a video when I finish the levers probably Tomorrow or Thursday.

    @absyfadhel1 - it is very simple if you follow the @RacingMat instruction step by step.
    My advice is to use a ORIGINAL MotoMonster, the economic ones are very often a waste of time.
  8. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Which bit of @Nick Moxley's description and the picture is unclear regarding using threaded rod and welded lock nuts to properly secure levers for hollow shaft motors?
  9. MikeSchumy

    MikeSchumy New Member

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    It is all clear, at last I used a solution very similar at the one descripted by @Nick Moxley.

    IMG_20171212_224644.jpg

    IMG_20171212_224701.jpg

    Tomorrow I'll mount these, I hope that they will be good!

    The levers are 5 mm thick I think that they are very stiff.
    I welded a M12 x 120 mm bolt to the lever and I drilled on it a hole to connect the bolt at the motor shaft.
    With the M12 nut everything will be very stiff.
  10. MikeSchumy

    MikeSchumy New Member

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    I've got a question, can you advice me a potentiometer? I think that mine are not good enough, my motor are fast (150rpm) and i think that i need very strong and precise potentiometer.
    Thank you I hope to post a video very soon!!
  11. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Index Gold Contributor

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    My preference is for Hall sensors. Potentiometers have an electrical contact that can wear out. If you do use pots, I know the JRKs have a way of shutting down the system if they sense the connection opening up. Not sure about the Arduino setups. If you lose the potentiometer, though, the system can run away and bend/break things without a proper feedback circuit to know where the output arm is.
  12. MikeSchumy

    MikeSchumy New Member

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    Can you send me a link to a sensor that you use? Thank you
  13. MikeSchumy

    MikeSchumy New Member

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    • Like Like x 1
  14. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    Good choice, Hall Sensors do indeed work well, they have a long working life and won't break if over rotated.
    • Like Like x 1
  15. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Index Gold Contributor

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    I think those are a good choice and I’m pretty sure I’ve seen them used by a number of people here.

    The one thing you have to be very careful about with any shafted sensor is you must use some kind of flexible connection or something to eliminate side loads on the shaft or you can still have failures - just a different kind. The shaft can gall in the bearing sleeve and lock up. If you look at the showcases here you can see the various ways people have dealt with that.

    I used Hall sensors that have no shaft. There is a magnet in a plastic mount and a separate sensor body. They are more expensive and you have to buy the connector and contacts separate, but there is no issue with flex coupling as it’s totally non-contact. It’s much easier to use them if you have a 3D printer or access to machining to make mounts.

    More info here: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/pot-round-or-flatted-shaft.11172/#post-144686
    • Like Like x 1
  16. MikeSchumy

    MikeSchumy New Member

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    @Zed : woow very nice work! have you made all these red parts with a 3d printer? it is fantastic.
    Your solution to use the hall sensor without shaft is the best, I think that in future I'll study a solution like your.
    For now I'll use the one with the shaft connected to the motor shaft with an alluminium sleeve.
    My sensors will arrive today, I'll post some pictures.
    • Like Like x 1
  17. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Index Gold Contributor

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    @MikeSchumy - yep, all the red and a lot of black that you can’t see in the photos. A 3D printer lets you make all sorts of custom parts. It makes for a very finished look.

    About using a hard sleeve to couple to the sensor shaft, if there is no flex there, you’ll need to mount the sensor bodies in some way that lets them flex with any movement of the motors but keeps them from rotating so you get accurate sensing of the motor output shaft/arm position.

    Good luck!
  18. Silvereng

    Silvereng Member

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    what are the total measures of the structure???
  19. MikeSchumy

    MikeSchumy New Member

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    Hello everybody! I think that I have finished my work, I have installed the sensors (woow they are very precise and I can use the entire resolution without gears) and I have made very stiff levers.
    It works great, I am testing it, I will post the video very soon.

    @Silvereng - I ll post a photo with all the measures in the afternoon.
    • Like Like x 2
  20. Brett Horton

    Brett Horton Active Member Gold Contributor

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    yeah... no... lol... When a pot goes bad on a JRK, it will run away... Don't ask me how I know...
  21. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Index Gold Contributor

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    Sorry about that but it can work in some situations. It’s at least supposed to detect a value out of range if you set up the connections and enable the error trap: (from the 12v12 manual)

    • Bit 5: Feedback disconnect
    This error occurs when the feedback is above the Absolute maximum or below the Absolute minimum (these parameters can be set in the configuration utility). The absolute maximum and absolute minimum can be set using the configuration utility. Additionally, when using the Detect disconnect with AUX option in Analog Feedback Mode, the jrk periodically tests to see whether the feedback potentiometer is disconnected and generates this error if it finds that it is (Section 3.c).

    But this only works if the feedback value is out of range. If the pot or Hall sensor shaft seizes and the value remains in range, it can still keep driving the motor past limits. The error detection is more for broken wires, worn out sensor elements, or dead Hall sensors.
    • Like Like x 1
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2017