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Looking for feedback on G-Seat Implementation for a Formula Seat

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Building Q&A / FAQ' started by LikeStig, Feb 4, 2019.

  1. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    Thanks @dododge
    I sent them an email for european distributor

    I also found something similar on Aliexpress
    "Black Silver 2020 3030 4040 2040 3060 4080 Aluminum Profile Right Angle Triangle Block Triangle Connector"
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000375087281.html
    • Informative Informative x 1
  2. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Index Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, JRK
    8020 is a bit pricy, but for those of us without all the tools and shop space, it can be a lifesaver for building good looking and sturdy rigs. I’m really happy with their stuff.

    Great work, @LikeStig!
    • Like Like x 1
  3. LikeStig

    LikeStig New Member

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    Appreciate the feedback everyone! Correct, I ordered the parts from 8020.net. The locking tensioners on the pivot bracket for the pedal deck were unnecessary. The locking tensioners would bind up constantly when adjusting the angle, I needed to hold them square in the groove to prevent them from binding up. Not a great design so I removed them and there was no difference: the 4080 extrusion butting squarely against the vertical supports is all that I needed. I got my extrusion off Craigslist second hand, it was 15 series so I ended up using US spec pieces throughout the build. I’ve began using a quick clamp on the monitors to keep them properly angled and “locked in”. It adds 20 seconds to setup. There are areas I can improve the folding design of the rig, specifically the monitor components:

    1. I've recently moved the side monitors further back and at a narrower angle to bring the FOV of the monitors closer to where they "should" be. Currently I can just barely see the edge of the side monitors in my peripheral vision. At this time I'm using 23" monitors and they are at the clearance limit for folding down. To add larger monitors, or bring my side monitors closer to my eyes; I will need to cut new monitor supports which are 2 inches higher or so. Deciding that initial height for the vertical posts was a challenge as the side monitors needed to swing over the top of the posts, and I under estimated that by a few percent. In the meantime, I separated the two monitor hinges which took away stability from the side mounts; but allowed me to swing the individual monitors further inward to provide additional clearance for the corners of the monitors. When they hang down, there is just enough clearance vertically.

    1. Speaking to others experience on ordering metric components or imperial on 8020.net, the black hinges I ordered were just the wrong ones. When folded out, the extrusion which the side monitor hinges attach to should sit directly on top of the other extrusion. Instead, there is a small gap and I had to use one part of the swing bracket for the side monitor extrusion to rest on. Really difficult to explain in words, but when I add SFX-100 it shouldn't be difficult or expensive to fix. I'll address this when I install taller monitor posts.

    I haven’t gotten around to adding motion/pneumatic to the rig just yet- I’ve been focusing on a project car and my driving on iRacing! I did add SimVibe to the rig and swapped my PC over to a smaller case to make room for the PC-Cart I described previously. Just about the smallest case I could find for an ATX board and I'm really happy with it. I also found a good spot to put my Kamui Kobayashi figurine in the case- haha. Most significant is the SimVibe! I love feeling something from the wheel translate to my feet/back. I may add a soundcard for extensions mode for a dedicated shifter transducer- the shifter effect on iRacing feels awesome and I would like a massive transducer to pump that in and not disrupt chassis mode transducers. I did a DIY 600w 6-channel amp that has done great so far, parts for that listed below. I intend to designing/printing a cover for the electronics; it's fine for now. My 3D Printer build plate size requires I glue it together in pieces and it's a bit of work, so when I get around to it. Having the SimVibe and finally getting tactile feedback in my rig was a big improvement and motion will be my next project.
    1. Aura AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer x4
    2. Mean Well MW LRS-350-36 36V 9.7A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply AC Adapter with Power Cables
    3. Sure Electronics AA-AB34181 6x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board
    As mentioned I've since bought a cheap 3D Printer to tinker around and someday print SFX-100. Monoprice Mini V2, it prints a little slow but I'm actually really impressed what it can do for a $150 machine. I need to finish an engine swap on a car project before I get seriously into SFX-100. The current plan is to mount the forward actuators "inboard" between the two vertical posts. I have some ideas for the rear actuators, but keeping the size-zero footprint makes the rear a challenge. I don't have a clue how to do the rear actuators, frankly.

    Regarding the G-Seat: I recently came across an individual who added Traction loss in a compact design to his SFX-100 setup. While I really would like to implement the pneumatic setup I think for the sake of simplicity this traction loss approach is the way to go for initial steps. I really just want a traction loss that is measurable by feel, so I can repeat rotation easier lap over lap. I think motion of the seat would help with that muscle memory over bladders in the seat, initially. Only thing unique to the way I implement the compact traction loss is that I need to put the traction loss platform pivot near under my legs, to make the seat swing as opposed to spin. It'll be a few more months of racing before I do more with my setup, but I have a parts list ready to go for that project. The individual who made this setup was very helpful in explaining how it was done. These parts were used:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844259289.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.3.6fcc64ebuWVSJC
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000252594276.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000023.17.3fc87f26V2s1L3

    Photo dump below for some of the things discussed here. Hoping to get around to the traction loss next! I'll likely raise the wheel/pedals/monitors to provide additional clearance for the compact traction loss platform.

    MRT, if you were ever willing to make me a cheap seat for a fellow enthusiast, I'd be really happy! I gave up on my mold, just too much project with everything else I have going on.
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2020
  4. LikeStig

    LikeStig New Member

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    Photo dump here

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
  5. dododge

    dododge Member Gold Contributor

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    I just grabbed one of those pivot brackets out of my spare-parts pile and I see what you mean. If the handle isn't kept straight up/out, the stud that connects it to the extrusion tilts over and grabs the inside edges of the curved slot and binds up. There's a washer under the handle that helps to keep it perpendicular, but the more you loosen the handle the more likely it is to bind up.

    It's probably made worse by the stud having exposed threads inside the slot. I tried wrapping the part of the stud passing through the slot with some UHMW tape so that the threads can't directly touch the metal, and that seems to have helped quite a bit. So if you end up needing to clamp down one of these brackets in the future that might be something to try. A little piece of plastic tubing around the stud would probably work as well, if you could find one just the right size. I'm almost surprised 80/20 doesn't include such a thing, since they do provide plastic washers in several other spots.
    • Agree Agree x 1