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I am New to DIY sim building. Anyone chiming in with help is great.

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Building Q&A / FAQ' started by james wheeler, Mar 17, 2014.

  1. james wheeler

    james wheeler Active Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-DC-10A-...727?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8f77363f

    Is this power supply any good?
    My controll board is rated 12 a continus so I didn't want to go above that.
  2. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely not! :eek: You’re thinking is in reverse here. You want to have more amps than you should ever need if possible to “supply” everything with enough current aka amps. :) The dual vnh5019 can deliver up to 60 peak amps with both motors. So ideally having that at minimum would be good I would think but you may get by on a lesser amperage rated power supply if it can deliver higher peak amps for a long enough period. Adding more amps than necessary wont hurt anything though in normal operating circumstances.
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2014
  3. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    Btw Another benefit I didn't think to mention earlier was that if you had gone with two single vnh5019 motor drivers instead of the dual, then you could have gone with individual power supplies on each one to split the load up.
  4. james wheeler

    james wheeler Active Member

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  5. bsft

    bsft

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  6. james wheeler

    james wheeler Active Member

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    wow thats alot of power. you are pushing 80amps?
  7. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    Something like this should do the job!
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-...081?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e2f00821

    But if that's a little more than you want to spend something like this should work good also.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-Amp-Powe...860?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417e0f304c

    Unfortunately, at some point as you try to pump out more amperage out of a power supply, the price grows exponentially. You may be able to find a better deal than this though if you spend some time looking! Or it may be less expensive to just scrap your dual motor driver and buy the single ones. Then you could go with 2 much less expensive 30 - 40 amp supplies.
  8. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    Or another option would be to buy another dual motor driver and then use it with the one you already have as a single driver like this. This will double the available amperage available to each motor.

    0J3766.600.jpg

    Here is more info: http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J49/7

    @bsft It would be fantastic if Pololu would make a jrk using this configuration also!
  9. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    The downside though is if you were to use the full power output of the dual turned into a single, you're back to looking at larger amperage power supplies again! But probably two of them this time! Although a large enough single power supply may get the job done for both drivers like the second one I posted above if you're motors peak amps don't go to high.
  10. james wheeler

    james wheeler Active Member

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    lol 15000.
    i was thinking of buying two more of the 5019 and hook them up with rufusdufus code. for 3dof

    but i will try and get this first one to work first before i get extrafigant.

    I was just not wanting to blow my controller by puting to much currant throgh it. but I guess that not a consern.

    go big
  11. bsft

    bsft

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    yes. 40 amps per motor under the right - wild motion . Ive had my motors at 530 watts overdriven easy, thats 44 amps spikes.
  12. bsft

    bsft

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    It would be nice yes, and we have asked pololu if they have a larger JRK in the works. Their answer was "not really" , its sales for them, rather than catering for a few sim builders. The main use for the JRK is battle robots. Mind you, since @eaorobbie introduced the JRKS here, the size of the motors the robot guys use are now a lot bigger than what they started with. I have heard of a robot with a 12v boat winch motor and 3kg hammer on it. Crunch.
  13. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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  14. telfel

    telfel Active Member

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  15. james wheeler

    james wheeler Active Member

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    @Historiker how would one go about connecting the power up to one of these?
  16. james wheeler

    james wheeler Active Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I DID IT. MY FIRST IS COMPETED.

    2 DOF
    DESK RACER
    with SUB IN SEAT

    500w Power supply Dell Poweredge 2650
    Bought on ebay from A guy in Alberta Canada $6
    2 Ford probe wiper motors
    Bought from Kenny u-pull in Hamilton. $30 (yes I ripped them out myself
    Civic Driver seat
    Bought from Kenny u-pull in Hamiton $25
    Arduino and pololu 5019 boards
    Bought from a robotic store in Markham Ontario Canada. $35 & $60 respectively
    2 10k Pots
    Bought from a electronic store in hamilton $4/per pot
    Old CV joint
    I had in my garage.
    Metal framing was picked out of my works scrap bin.

    Wood decking was from a old shelving unit I found on the side of the road.

    Computer is a Acer aspire z5101-e3142 All-in-one

    Bought from a guy in Brampton for $300

    10" Sub woofer
    Bought from a hamilton Salvation Army $20

    Wheel and pedels
    Bought from a lady in bolton Ontario $40

    Wireless keyboard and mouse
    Bought from Burlington Salvation Army $5

    TOTAL COST:
    $525

    Feeling of doing something people are amazed by
    Priceless

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1i5AYG5mLJE







    I Really Want to thank everyone that helped
    BlazinH
    bsft
    Historiker
    RacingMat
    eaorobbie
    • Winner Winner x 1
  17. bsft

    bsft

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    Looks good man. Well done. I can see however that the seat is not sitting on the back t-bar and I suspect yo may be loosing a bit of feeling as the seat is moving separately to the frame.
    Otherwise, well done.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  18. james wheeler

    james wheeler Active Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, Arduino
    I have upgraded my seat.
    1st I did try bsft suggestions on attaching the control arms directly to the seat but I found it to aggressive. The spongyness of how i have it set up with the t bar i think simulates shocl absorption better.
    2nd i added a 10" sub into the back of the seat (there was no room under it) and hooked it up to the rear chanel of the 5.1.
    3rd and this is not completed yet, I ripped a jetta dash out from the u-pull complete with radio and tack., speedo cluster (also heat controls). I have the radio working but would like to get the instrument cluster working if its possible, to show me the rpm and speed. I took apart my momo wheel and installed it into the steering column and moved the shifter down to the center column.
    NEXT is to mount a 42" 3d tv to it
  19. james wheeler

    james wheeler Active Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, Arduino
    Oh i forgot to mention my settings
    So after getting a little annoyed with how roll and pitch didn't feel right at all i started watching the tuning center and came to realize that sway and surge was what I needed. So I set the sway to 66% and same with the surge with axis limiting to 80%. And jumped into dirt 3. But after flying off the road a few times i noticed that when I was sitting in the ditch sideways the chair was still flat. Looking at the tuning center again i saw that my roll was way up. So i went back and change sway to 60% & roll to 40% (I made sure that roll and sway were opposite from each other) using 100% of my 80% axis. I did the same to sway and pitch. And jumped into dirt 3. Then I noticed that I would gwt flung side to side alot but not forward and back much. So off to change again. I noticed that the motor arm with sway/roll moved opposite from each other and surge/pitch moved together so i theorized that sway/roll had twice as much movement naturally the surge/pitch. So i changed sway to 42 and roll to 26 which gave me 66% of axis and i left s/p at 100%. And jumped into dirt 3. It was better. The 2 forces were more equally matcjed but still a little dominant on the s/r side. Figuring all that out made me think maybe there was more i could do. So i had my neighbor take me out in his Impreza while I felt the car through the corners. I noticed that the car never felt like it would sway simply side to side but felt like the outside rear would sink alittle. So I changed it again. This time i watched the tuning center for a force that acted like sway. Extra 1 was the winner. I changed my sway to 40% roll to 16% and added extra 1 (set in opposite to sway but the same as rol) at 10% with 10% smoothing to make it feel as though the car kept sinking into the corners. That left me at 66% and surge/pitch at 100. And jumped into dirt 3. Perfect. (so far)
    So here they are

    Sway 40%
    Roll 16% opposite sway
    Extra 1 10% with 10% smoothing, opposite sway

    Surge 60%
    Pitch 40% opposite of surge.

    Now its great.
    • Informative Informative x 3
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  20. bsft

    bsft

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    well done, profiles are individual and take time to work out
    • Agree Agree x 1