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Hannibal's thread into DIY motion platform

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by hannibal, Feb 15, 2019.

  1. wyoben

    wyoben New Member Gold Contributor

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    @hannibal I appreciate the response! The more I read the more I lean towards the AC motor option much like @Grigory assembled. I am a fan of the smaller foot print. I will continue to observe and see how your system turns out.
  2. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    if you go AC motor, dont forget to add dampers.
    when i started to research, the heavier the seat section is, the more stress the motor takes, so ppl started to add dampeners to reduce some stress.
    this when i started to question the longiveity of a motor based 6dof platform...
  3. wyoben

    wyoben New Member Gold Contributor

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    I appreciate the information on the dampers, do you recall which thread you spotted that in? Not to derail your thread to far but this is as far as I have made it so far. CSRL3761.JPG
    I have managed to get it dialed in quite well with x-plane, Elite Dangerous is giving me fits. I think that building one is only going to be half the battle tuning is a whole new story!
  4. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Tuning! Calibration! What a female of a dog!
    • Like Like x 1
  5. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    agreed. the build is half problem, tuning is the other half.. the fun just begins...

    about the dampeners, look at @SilentChill 's build thread and also @cheophus
  6. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    Looking like something

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 3
  7. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Yep, it's coming along. Only one to finish and five to replicate.
    Have fun!
  8. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    thank you sir. i am not even there yet! i will lay out most parts of the 5 other acutators.. but i want to fully assemble one or two before i put them all together..

    what are you doing to pass the time while your build is down @Pierre Lalancette
  9. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    I'm working hard, to get money, to buy more stuff for my simulator.

    I know that my lock screws were shipped and that I received my fiber carbon plates. :)
  10. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    interesting.. didnt know they sold carbon fiber plates!
  11. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    They do, and it's *&*&? expensive.
    I was told that carbon plate have a stress direction, and if you go against it, you break it more easily.
  12. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    i went with A36 steel... the last two weeks i have been trying to produce the plates. i pretty much drilled out the 25mm+ size holes. i just hope i dont make mistake.. i try to order spares just in case i mess up.

    everytime i think of whats needed to be done, i get overwhelmed.
    i have to reset my state of mind, and just focus on 2-3 tasks needed to be done hoping though the course it all adds up.

    at this time im just building out the linear actuator structures.
    my next major task is build some kind of anti rotation tube 2 ball screw coupler.
    i have to start to hone the 3d printing techniques. which i think i will tackle next week.
  13. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    Checking alignment

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  14. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi @hannibal nice steady progress , yes it can get a bit stress LOL but just you wait till the 1st powered movement occurs ,,, def a Ye ja Baby moment and a smile that wont shift that say "this is my Work ----- yeah baby groovy " but that usually gets tempered By Damm one down 5 to go LOL ...

    have to say 6.35mm ali would have been easier to work with and for those plates you don't have a machine shop .

    I used 16mm thick Dekrin ( HDPE ) plate as it cuts well wiyth home tools and seems Great strength wise but as mentioned , my sim has not been run in anger for a long time and at moment im back to testing setup before full on running
  15. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    im using A36 steel, im getting by i guess, though my kitchen is full of shards.
    i tried to find out what u guys were using! will probably use HDPE for the anti-rotation mechanism.
    although i should just build just one, im actually setting up materials to build all 6 (bad idea) but im focus on having 2 complete.
    there is certain mindset during tooling, im trying to keep that while i am on a particular topic.
    this project is also an endurance test!

    well, i hope to see you enjoy your mechanical piece of art.

    i am amzingly greatful for your replies, along with @Pierre Lalancette and @noorbeast .. <3

    for now, i am setting up all the rods, looking at painting the plates, and im now on the topic of the base universal joint.
    i did have an idea to use a flange and 1-1/2" black pipe on the bottom base of the actuator..

    but seem like i should go with the small u-joint that most of you guys are using, and not reinvent the wheel!
    • Like Like x 1
  16. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hiya @hannibal there are various options as you no doubt found during your research here , I fitted the type shown in the Middle Photo of some examples, These are strong but cant say with any real history how well they will cope @SilentChill and a few Others found the land rover Steering rack UJ;s and think they will be a little more robust , if you go to a car breakers yard you may find the real macoy's , the ones actually fitted to either ends of a car Propshaft , but they are way way way overspecced for what our actuators need, but if you can fit these, then they will be fit and forget cause the house would fall apart before these Did LOL ( and a few guys have had issues with smaller Uj's Breaking. as with most things in our projects it will boil down to budget available . in saying that though if you can get six at good price, i'll save you rework & reassembly further down the line ...Just my 2 cents worth , the guys here have so many great ideas your bound to find something that suits your needs . :)

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    • Funny Funny x 1
  17. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    thank you for information..

    this might be a simple (next to stupid question) @wannabeaflyer2
    can i ask, how did you connect the M12 universal joint to your actuator base?
    most of the the UJ are not threaded.
    i see some guys weld the the joint. but i see threaded bolts involved so, im just wondering how did you or most guys handle attaching u-joints to the bases (besides the welding)...

    i havent order u-joint yet.. i uploaded a photo by @Flymen ... i just want to make sure before if there was threaded versions or not.. and if they are not, what did you guys do to adapter the nut to the UJ, and is 12mm the recommed size? i am assuming that you guys drilled a hole in to the threaded nut so that the pin can be inserted?

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 6, 2019
  18. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi @hannibal LOL this time I had to use 4mm steel plates to anchor the UJ in place ,,This was a later mod so I cant remember if I updated the drawing to reflect that.

    I still kept the 12mm threaded rod in the UJ as it was used to Align the actuator UJ plate in the wooden Base ..

    in the end I tack welded two plates to the UJ ( one on top and one on the bottom each with 4 M6 holes ..

    I was able to drill and tap the Actuator base plate ( HPDE material so easy peasy) and also once alingned I drilled 4 M6 holes in the wooden base as well as having a 12mm nut on the threaded rod ( way Overkill ) .. will add a photo tomorrow but I guess you can picture the arrangement I just described ..

    Welding not Pretty but seems to do the job :)
  19. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    i look forward to seeing photos! :):):)

    @wannabeaflyer2 by the way, is the positioning of the Universal Joint on 90 degrees in respect to the actuator and base?
    i think from most steward platforms photos, the UJ is pretty much in line or parallel to the base and actuator..
    but i just want to check with you that it is not on any odd angles..

    i did a ms-paint drawing to pose the question for your verification?

    Attached Files:

  20. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi @hannibal yes you are correct , the drawing was pictorial as at that point i did not finalise the mounting method and since changed to the tack welded plates .

    So they were lined up to achieve minimal twisting load whilst allowing the UJ to move freely over the range of movment for the actuator Min - Max Travel . the left side view of the picture you posted is the ideal alignment required , Cheers ( really need to get that drawing updated for you guys .. the new revised drawing will include some ideas i came across from other members Designs and should include some more Off the shelf parts to make construction easier for guys with minimal machining capabilities ( well thats the plan as of yesterday :) )