h-bridge 12v 40amps

I am not changing my firmware, just using a sketch (code) made by a fellow XSimulation.net member.

http://www.xsimulator.net/community...dof-and-1-pwmpin-1-dirpin-hbridge-board.4614/

when i said firmware i mean code, lool i have done some coding before but limited...
so the right question is whta the best code haha

I have been told that Prilad's code is very good, I have not tried it yet. I am currently using the 4DoF code created/modified by RacingMat which can be found via the link I posted above.

im gonna try prilads . his diagram is a little difficult to understand.. if some one uses his code and caan help with the pot wiring i will be glad thnaks

Prilad's code requires more extensive changes to the Arduino, such as a firmware change and it is restricted to two DoF. You might try the one from RacingMat, which I use, as it just needs to be sent to the arduino without firmware changes and you can add more DoF (up to 4 total).

i was seeing racinsmat. but i dont understand nothing.. its very confuse..what hes says in his tread
but as u have yours working... u can show me the easy solution, later i willl compile all information in an very easy step by step....

he talks about 1 pin pwm hbridge and 2 pins hbridge etc. and theres lot of codes..
i know how to send the code to the arduiino.. but theres no a diagram to facility and it confuses a lot

Hi Trust, both Prilad and RacingMat have laid out their instructions pretty clearly. You might want to spend some time going over each step carefully, looking up concepts that you do not understand. This might help to successfully complete your project.

im gonna test prilads first it seemes really easy now that u guys helped me...
soon as i start the project i will post the photos thanks

Rob, so you used the 5v and ground from the Arduino? You also feed the Arduino GND to the H-Bridge as well right?

I am going to build one of these this week sometime (as soon as the parts get here). Creating the G-Code to cut out a PCB on my CNC right now and wanted to make sure I have it laid out correctly.

Yes from memory the driver needed all gnd to be tied together in order to run, sparkfun monster motor. The above driver I have only tested on a breadboard with led to represent the drivers inputs to see if the code and wiring is going to turn them on at the right times, as for pot wiring either follow prilads wiring which he shows plainly or Matts, both wire the pot to the 5v and gnd and the analogue pin dictated by the code.

hey guys.. one motor 24v 30amps.. can handle much more than a 12v 40 or 50amps? or they ar both the same power?

Resulting torque should be simular, but the 24v will be better at it, just harder and more expensive to setup a driver for it.
12v stuff is a lot more user friendly and cards to drive them can be bought off the shelf ,+1, 24v stuff normally requires a lot more to make them work.

im asking couse im gonna build my similar to the ckas 2dof... they have a beaultiful desing
so it needs much torque, coz it will be 3 screem +- 25kg only the screens. but they use big motor 3 phase.
so in theory it should need to take care of 200kg.... what type of 12v motor can handle it? u have any idea?

Ckas is an old crap design, actually had the privileged(not) to use one of their sims, very slow unsynced movement. Maybe ok for flight but at 4k to copy, doesn't compare to my 0.8k race sim,
actually leagues behind. Motors output and reactions way too slow.
For using 12v or 24v you need to keep the design to a balanced design as in the machine when turns off always come back to a balanced point, therefore all the motors actually do is move it off balance and not have to drag it back to centre, this requires real power, as in 240v.

Good example of this is a joyrider like Value1 built, with winchs too , +1. They still keep poping up.

ckas seemes to be really heaven ive noticed it.. and bluetiger ? i gonna be cheking others desing but they need to take care of maybe 180kg.. maybe worm motors?

nice explanation... now one interesting question.. can i use it for comercial use..? not to seell.. but rent for party and events? i think theres no problem or there is?

as Rob says, a 2 DOF with 12v motors can be done with 3 screens on it. Make sure its balanced right and mount motors connecting at shoulders at back of seat. Worm gears will do it, 12v winches will really move it.

should be fine, I use my "all in one" for when my kids mates drop around, a heap on under teens thrashing away on Dirt Showdown. 12v DC motors on it, but screen is static.
If you plan to hire, speak to Rene about licence for software.
Mines for personal abuse at home.

ok thats clear thanks,, today im gonna buy an g27 an arduino and the eletronic stuffs to build the hbridges
the screens is a hell of expesivel. it will costs me 3 32 tv screen +- 1500 dollar i dont know when i will have money to buy than

the kids must love it lool