1. For downloading SimTools plugins you need a Download Package. Get it with virtual coins that you receive for forum activity or Buy Download Package - We have a zero Spam tolerance so read our forum rules first.

    Buy Now a Download Plan!
  2. Do not try to cheat our system and do not post an unnecessary amount of useless posts only to earn credits here. We have a zero spam tolerance policy and this will cause a ban of your user account. Otherwise we wish you a pleasant stay here! Read the forum rules
  3. We have a few rules which you need to read and accept before posting anything here! Following these rules will keep the forum clean and your stay pleasant. Do not follow these rules can lead to permanent exclusion from this website: Read the forum rules.
    Are you a company? Read our company rules

Showroom FlyPT - 6DOF Brushless DIY Actuators

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by pmvcda, Aug 29, 2017.

  1. Taz

    Taz New Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2020
    Messages:
    2
    Balance:
    15Coins
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    Arduino
    This looks like the full motion that I will be attempting to build I've had this in my mind for over a month and have most of the hardware on order thanks for your pics and info
  2. eloverphx

    eloverphx Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2011
    Messages:
    45
    Occupation:
    Electrician
    Location:
    Shakopee, Minnesota, USA
    Balance:
    40Coins
    Ratings:
    +2 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, Joyrider
    Well after reading all of this I really want to build this thing like everyone else. I have been working on a joyrider first years and never finished it after moving and having kids. Now time to just on the horse and start over and build something better. My question at the moment all I have found locally in Minneapolis is aluminum that is 2”x4” for the base with I am assuming should not change any of the main dimensions? I will also be teaching myself to weld aluminum so this might be the hardest part, as soon as I can afford a cheap welder. Anyone else building this in the US that has sourced the parts at a decent price?
  3. Andy-R

    Andy-R New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2020
    Messages:
    4
    Balance:
    24Coins
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    6DOF
    I am building in the US. I obtained my metal stock from https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/. They have locations all over the US. You can order online but you will pay more than if you just visit or call your local location.

    From my order history, so far I have obtained the following. These are very close Imperial matches for the metric originals.:
    SKU # Product Grade Length Quantity Price Per Piece Reorder Item
    ATRT6063/3112120 3.000 X 1.500 X 0.120 AL 6063T5 TUBE RECTANGLE ALUMINUM TUBE RECTANGLE 6063T5 6063T5 60.00 Inches 3 $37.11
    ATR6061/114125 1.250 X 0.125 AL 6061T6 TUBE ROUND ALUMINUM TUBE ROUND 6061T6 6061T6 60.00 Inches 2 $25.17
    ATSQ6063/112112125 1.500 X 1.500 X 0.125 AL 6063T5 TUBE SQUARE ALUMINUM TUBE SQUARE 6063T5 6063T5 104.00 Inches 2 $45.77
    AF6061/12212 0.500 X 2.500 AL 6061T6 FLAT BAR ALUMINUM FLAT BAR 6061T6 6061T6 96.00 Inches 1 $78.86


    BTW - I am brazing my Aluminum not welding it: check youtube (e.g. ) for tips - all you need is a blowtorch. Learning to use an actual welder is a much bigger learning curve. I may decide to strengthen some critical joints in the upper section with extra plates just cto be safe.
  4. eloverphx

    eloverphx Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2011
    Messages:
    45
    Occupation:
    Electrician
    Location:
    Shakopee, Minnesota, USA
    Balance:
    40Coins
    Ratings:
    +2 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, Joyrider
    Thanks for the info. I will look into those links. I have saw the brazing method before but I was curious how that will hold up with all the movements and banging around and all. @FlyPT what method did you do? I do have some big metal places not too far from me in Minneapolis so I was going to check them but didn’t know if I wanted to go toward the larger 2x4 rather than a 1.5x3 ish for the base.
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2020
  5. Andy-R

    Andy-R New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2020
    Messages:
    4
    Balance:
    24Coins
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    6DOF
    I will let flyPT or others comment on strength of brazing vs welding. It certainly seems pretty strong to me so far, but my build is not complete yet.
    I did decide not to use 3D printed parts - my actuator assembly, connection of the actuator to the base and the connection of the actuator to the upper frame are all 100% metal,

    I see no reason why the base could not use the larger material you mention, but 1.5x3 construction seems plenty strong The extra weight might make it more stable perhaps?
  6. eloverphx

    eloverphx Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2011
    Messages:
    45
    Occupation:
    Electrician
    Location:
    Shakopee, Minnesota, USA
    Balance:
    40Coins
    Ratings:
    +2 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, Joyrider
    I was thinking of trying to make some of the plastic parts out of aluminum on my cnc if it would actually cut aluminum well is yet to be seen. Have you sourced the motors yet? I looked at the metal on the website you sent. Of course the price has gone up! :) about 15$ more for the rectangle tubing but it’s only 20 min or so from my house so that’s not bad. Is 5’ enough for the base? I wasn’t it 3 meters or so needed? I’ll have to look again it’s been a little while since I have looked. How far are you on you build? Would like to see you progress if you have a post started.
  7. Andy-R

    Andy-R New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2020
    Messages:
    4
    Balance:
    24Coins
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    6DOF

    I'll get some pictures when I can - so far I have finished the base and one actuator - since I was changing the design, I wanted to make sure that actuator would would work first. It does, so I am now ready to knock out the other 5.

    The motors and controllers are from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Free-Sh...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

    Also, the ball screw assembly: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ball-Screw...var=611734692642&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

    I worked up a spreadsheet with the metal dimensions in it when I did this. I am attempting to attach to this post.

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
  8. eloverphx

    eloverphx Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2011
    Messages:
    45
    Occupation:
    Electrician
    Location:
    Shakopee, Minnesota, USA
    Balance:
    40Coins
    Ratings:
    +2 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, Joyrider
    Wow good price for that motor combo. Wonder if you will notice the 500 rpm difference from the one OP used. Not sure if he’s using it at full speed or not. They give you a discount with quantity order so might have to jump on that before they are gone. Haven’t seen any others with similar ratings in my searches
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2020
  9. Andy-R

    Andy-R New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2020
    Messages:
    4
    Balance:
    24Coins
    Ratings:
    +3 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    6DOF
    Here are a few pictures of my Actuator build. All metal design - no printed parts. And no need to CNC Aluminum the way I did it. Everything is made from Aluminum stock, cut to size and drilled (and threaded as necessary). top view.jpg TOP VIEW






    motor mounting closeup.jpg
    Motor Detail
    Simple rectangular Aluminum plates, drilled to allow the shaft and coupler. Threaded on the sides (left and right in this picture) so that bolts can hold the plates in place.


    motor top and microswitch.jpg

    CLOSE UP OF SCREW PILLOW BEARING
    On the right you can see the microswitch mounting. Simply thin Aluminum bent into shape. The microswitch is epoxied on.

    ball screw to rod connection.jpg CONNECTION OF BALL SCREW CARRIAGE TO ROD
    I used the hardware that came with the ball screw assembly. Not visible in the picture is where the rod joins the carriage, I added a smaller size tube to allow the rod to mate with the carriage (the rod diameter was too great to fit into the hole). Note that the carriage can rotate at the moment because there is no connection between the carriage and the side walls of the actuator. It works as is, but I may screw bolt into the carriage and slide the head of the bolt into the channel in the side walls. You can also see the upper-limit microswitch here.

    rod end.jpg
    ROD END
    This end of the rod also uses a smaller tube to allow attachment to the rod. The M12 bolt head was ground down so it just fit inside the smaller tube. The entire tube was then filled with Polycarbonate resin to hold the bolt in place, with the end projecting out as you see in the photo.

    actuator top.jpg
    TOP DETAIL
    You can see the teflon coated flange which ensures the rid travels smoothly.
    • Like Like x 2
  10. eloverphx

    eloverphx Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2011
    Messages:
    45
    Occupation:
    Electrician
    Location:
    Shakopee, Minnesota, USA
    Balance:
    40Coins
    Ratings:
    +2 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, Joyrider
    Man that looks very nice. Great job. Thanks for sharing your progress and explanations. Getting amped up wanting to drop the hammer and start ordering everything. Just need to pay off a couple thing first. Keep us posted on your progress and let us know how the movement goes.
  11. Islom

    Islom New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2019
    Messages:
    1
    Balance:
    38Coins
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor
    Hello! Is it possible to use this code for 4dof? Thanks for answer