Floriske.nl's 2DOF Playseat GT Wiper motor Project

ok heatsink mate dont join them in case of the body earth.

Will that cause any problems?

Bodies aren't grounded are they? And if they are, aren't all grounds connected anyway?

Regarding Earthing, with the wipers, MAKE SURE the motors are earth isolated, the feedback of 12 volts going through the frame may find its way back into the jrks, or even into your computer via the usb cables.
I have blown a jrk due to not earth isolating the motors. Expensive mistake.
Keep the jrks in a plastic box with the heatsinks away from any metal of the sim frame. And put a fan on the box to keep them cool.
They are a tough little board, but like anything else, they require care.

Since I'm using a wooden top- and bottom platform (like Deriy) instead of a metal frame current leakage- or earth current won't occur easilly.

I've bought 2x 30A switching PSU's and am planning on mounting the JRK's together with the PSU's inside a wooden case with plexiglass cover and led fans.

The pot -> motor axle connection will be done with a slotted plexiglass strip (same method as you are using on the wiper motors). So no electrical connection between pot and motor is possible either.

At first I was thinking of mounting the JRK's on the PSU housing, but since this does increase the risk of 230V leaking to the JRK ground I will isolate them from the PSU's

I only heatsink the main driver chip have not thought of putting one on the mosfet but after a lot of testing i have found that it dosent genrate much heat , not like the same on tronics h bridge. Plus from my simple knowledge on mosfets and heatsinking is that most use the body to ground the driver.

So basically a heatsink on the VNH2SP30 chip and air cooling the rest should do the trick and combining the heatsink could result in shorts?

Too bad, seemed like a nice in between project till the building parts are complete

yep sorry mate didnt want to see it go poof on ya. Another note becareful of polarity of power supply when hooking it all up, suppose to be circuit protected but not at the amps we are pushing them at.
make a seperate smaller heatsink for the other, why not.

I have heatsinks only on the big chips of mine, the heatsinks get HOT, but the boards do not stop.
And yes regarding polarity, I just blew mine to hell tonight in a split second of stupidity, put the wrong power plug on. Damn!

Been a pretty active casemodder and learned to be very carefull with reversing polarity the hard way

For the same reason I learned to make DC connections as permanent/fool proof as possible and always double check them

Edit: for those interested here's a link to my old casemodding page: http://floriske.nl/casemodding/index_uk.php

This fool didn't check the plug he was plugging in did he.....fetim!

Heres the link for isolating earth, probably not necessary for your self.
isolating-a-wiper-motor-ground-t3358.html

Thx!

Didn't even think about reversing (polarity of) the motor resulting in 12V on the body. Quite logical though, since in a car most metal parts are connected to the body for mass.

Eventhough it's not really needed in my case I'll still isolate them since it's a small effort.

Little status update:

The following parts have arrived so far:

• JRK 12V12's (2x)
• Thermal adhesive for my JRK heatsinks
• USB Cables for the JRK's
• 100K linear Pots (4x)
• M10 Rod ends (4x)
• Friend of mine found 2 exactly the same Vauxhall/Opel Manta wiper motors, they where made in 2 types: a larger heavier one and a smaller one, these are 2 of the large ones.
• He also has a V6 Vauxhall/Opel Monza drive shaft which I could have for the U-Joint as pivot point.

Still waiting for the 2x 30A switching PSU's, an RS232-USB UART, and yobuddy's package.

I've been looking around for some nice structure paint for my platforms and stumbled uppon Warnex. 1kg is enough for 3-4 m2 and should be enough in my case.

Still looking for the weights of the Fanatec CSR Wheel, Elite pedals and shifter pm'ed tdi-bourne2die about this since he has the wheel and pedals, but unfortunately he read the message but didn't reply.

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Yesterday a friend of mine dropped of some old car parts

I'm very happy with the uni joint of the drive shaft:


It has absolutely no play and moves very smooth :thbup: (needs a bit of cleaning and painting though

It's the wiper motors that concern me:


The wormwheel as well as the gear are alll metal, but the housing cover is plastic.

Will this couse problems due to the motors getting hot?

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Started making some pivot arms for the pots tonight.

Here's a few pictures during the routing (damn I want a CNC router :yes:



And here's the rough finished product (needs sanding):


Sorry for the somewhat crappy pics just took some snapshots with our powershot and it was pretty dark.

And now it's time to give the wife some attention (22:25 overhere)

Better than mine! I used left over plastic angle , a drill bit, carefully cut using a grinder, and then sanded the edges a bit, but hey, we all work with what we have.
:

As long as it works! Right?

Here in the netherlands we have a proverb je moet roeien met de riemen die je hebt, litterly translated: You have to row with the paddles you have

Mine aren't perfect either, it's a table column drill with a cross-table, not an actual router and definitely not 0.1mm precise

Hey Floris,
Waar in NL zit je eigenlijk?
Ik bij Rdam

@Hardsteel: I'm located near Eindhoven (as mentioned in my pm earlier )

wiper look ok mate just dont overload them, have ya balance sort, must be nicely balanced fully loaded all sim gear and ya self, set it up with a t bar connected to base and continued to about ya shoulder and spread out to about the width of your shoulders, mount motors back so the connecting rod is angle back nicely about 15deg work for my wipers and leaning in about 10-15 deg this worked nicely for my first seat mover. Until i combined the wheel and pedals into base so it all moved lasted a couple of hours before the worm gears tore out, went with winches break that ya bugger. As well make sure body earth on motors is 0v or ya will kill anything electrical on ya sim, ie wheel and jrks, I blew up at G25 before i realize i missed a capacitor inside the bush assembly, ouch that hurt. But all looking good mate well on ya way to having ya first sim.

Thx for the tips eaorobbie!

I know balancing the platform is crucial, but unfortunatelly I'm still looking for the weight of the Fanatec CSR (non elite) wheel, elite pedals and shifter set because that is the setup I'm planning on buying as soon as I have the funds for it (want an xbox 360 compatible wheel).
I only know the shipping weight, not the actual product weights (got those from fanatec).
Aksed this question on a few forums (and through pm to multiple people) I'm active on but unfortunatelly noöne responded

Reckon I'll just estimate the weight and make the pivot adjustable to make shure I can always balance correctly.

I won't make a seat mover or shoulder mounted setup, but a Deriy style (dual) platform with the motors mounted in front of the pivot point.

Since both platforms will be wood the motors won't be in contact with any other metal parts than it's own mounts.
For the same reason I chose to make the pot pivot arms out of acryllic so no current can be conducted between the motor and pots either.
This way the motors are completely isolated from all other parts (except for the needed electrical connections of course).