DIY Tactile Transducer

I agree that it is not easy to set up correctly but if you find someone else's profile it works very well. I found several for iRacing (that also work with other titles) on the InsideSimRacing forums.

Sorry no photo, I have taken it off for the moment. so I will have to describe it.
I have removed the arms on my chair and this freed up the bracket which is a solid horizontal bar with some holes through it, in the vertical direction. The bolt goes through it. On the bolt I have some washers, a nut and a "wing nut" (you can see these in the video at 5:08) these are on either side of the chair arm bracket. I adjust the nut to suit the position and then use the wing nut to lock it down. The Transducer hangs downwards olt in the vertical. I would not put this horizontally. If your chair does not have a bracket like mine you will have to make one out of some holed lat bar and bend it into a top hat shape, screw the ears to the underside of your seat and bolt the transducer in the middle.
The bolt is around 6 to 7cm It was one I had laying around.
But I suggest look at your situation and use a bolt length to suit.

Okay I think I get the basic idea. I understand that putting it horizontal puts more stress on the setup and decreases the strength of the vibrations a bit, but I was also thinking that a longer bolt would give the bolt more bend and in turn more ability to produce stronger vibrations with that extra space. That's why I'm asking about the mounting. I thinking about trying a block of wood with one end rounded to fit the cone of the speaker and the other flat to help send the vibration to the chair, maybe cut a tight space for the block to sit into the chair. I'm worried the voice coil won't be able to handle the stress from that.

The way I mount my diy shaker to the chair is very simple and effective. I'll use an office chair as an example to explain what I do. I use a metal plate/ bar approx 400 mm x 40 mm x 4mm, (in fact its an old angle finder I had lying around) , which is just sandwiched tightly between the base of the chair and the um, gas lift mounting plate. Drilled a suitable hole and fixed the transducer to it. Due to the size of my diy (12" 300 watt sony sub woofer") shaker it sticks out from the back of the chair but I think this helps a lot with sending the vibration to the seat. Hope that makes sense.

if you use a sub amp with crossover adjust you can change/ tune it alittle if using the audio side.
so bigger speaker lower settings of frequencys then the small speaker for the higher ones you can filter what sound you want then even run say a graphic eq to boost the ones you want more.
the sound matches alot of things going on in a game so it aint too bad if you play with the audio conversion side of things and seperate.

example i ran a a few home made then used sub amps the 12" transducer had the real low stuff so in a crash only worked say hitting the wall or triggerd on a very deep rumble strip, i could just turn the knob and change that to full rumble on the strips and shake the seat even more.. listen to the game sounds just from the bass side to work out what you can do regarding seperation of the transducers.
if you then run say a 4" transducer you could set that to the engine sound and catch that with the cut off for the higher stuff of say the engine vibration on revving up.

remember you can splitt audio lots of times from the main input so you always have full info to cut down to snippets you want to send as the output.
it can do alot and work ok for home made things and like you say anything lying around can be used old amps speakers subs ect ...

but saying that i couldn't be botherd to do all that messing again so found 5 aura shakers for £40 each so bought the lot if you keep looking i think paying £40 for one in my eyes is the better way if your in no rush, you can get them and try to win them everytime you see some but i see loads sell for that and see loads start and sell double so worth trying with a low price everytime on ebay and fingers crossed you win them.

mind you i did get into trouble with the misses when she seen what i had done oops.

i did say she could have one tho (lol)

Aaagh! broke my transducer, it was not anything to do with the power or the way it was connecter, just brute force ignorant clumsiness!! I have opened up the coil to see where it is broken only damage is the coil tube is a little damaged at the edge but even after straightening it up, I still can not get it to work
Well! I have now bought a cheap "Bodyshaker" 100 Watts 4 Ohm. Now this is where for me things get fuzzy. The Creative Inspire 2400 amp is rated at 4.5watts RMS per channel ( not using these for the moment) and 12 Watts RMS for the subwoofer ( this drives the transducer ) The speaker I had originally used (now broken) was 20watts 4Ohm.
Now my question is will I blow the amp with the 100watt "bodyshaker" ? I have run the setup and it works well, unless it is a placebo effect, it feels better than my DIY transducer. After running it for some time on a low bass volume setting the heat sink got warm but not that hot ( well what do I know ) . In reality I do not need to crank the volume up as the affect on my seat then becomes unrealistic. Oh BTW when measuring the voltage out of the amp I am reading around 9volts
I appreciate your comments.

You cannot actually "blow up" and amp, its a combination of over-driving it with too much distortion and or too little or too much resistance on it. Start it low and work up a bit at a time.
Put a fan on it if need be to keep it cool.

ohms wrong can kill amps when driven hard, but ive never blown an amp from use even with odd use of ohms so i would say the same as bsft if you are not getting heat problems then it will be fine.
it sound like the coil was not perfectly in line on the blown one and possibley caught and rubbed which is death to a speaker tbh :-(
good job non the less have another go at one for another you sound like your about there just a few small details.
if you drive a speaker to distorion it normally burns the coil and melts the glue then locks up as coil just moves or burns up black or colour changes on the coil.
ive blown a few speakers from being a dj for 10 years in my early years and been well into car stereo scene too you blow lots in that.
also if you got cleam power you can easily overload the said speaker as its such a clean signal the distorion does not tell you by sound your over loading the speaker so it just gets very hot then dies, to match speakers you need the rms of that of the speaker and match ohms up with the amp too and what it can drive happily.
the thing with clean signals is you get no warning as it might not distort but you have too much power thats clean and so the speaker just gets hot and fails as the coil colapses or melts so very important to cheack the speaker for heat on testing if the amp is better than the sepeaker, but all in all a clean signal is far better than a bad signal and can drive a better sound louder and cleaner.
alot of people didn't take subs back for blowing and if you drove it clean signals, the good thing there is if you tell them an amp that matched it you can get a replacement under warrenty as if they gut the speaker they dont see it burnt or changed colour on the coil the speaker failed and you didn't blown it up
ive had a few replaced and watched as they ripped it open to a relief they never been burnt from distotion, on a £600 sub it really is a big FEW WEE !
The smell of a hot speaker is something you learn and has a distinct smell that you can save a system once you no the first sign of it ! lol
car stereo has some cool xovers you can use to tune the signals before they goto amps but some transducers only work with low freqencys but the speakers can be made to tune the higher quicker vibrations of the sound out put you can use a graphic eq to boost the bit you want too from the sound at that stage so the system is tuned to that bit when ever it makes that fequency it moves.