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DIY Linear Actuator design

Discussion in 'Motor actuators and drivers' started by wannabeaflyer2, Mar 5, 2016.

  1. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    @hannibal You should start your own thread as we are hijacking wannabe thread. I have done nothing to the power, just plugged it to the batteries and I went my way. They are deep charging boat batteries. It's only been a few months, so I don't know about long terms, but all seem fine so far.
  2. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    i did start my own thread, i just had questions about wannabe's build.
    but after just now seeing sixdegreesoffreedom's thread with a focus on how to wire a sabertooth 2x60.. i was even blown more out of the water lolol

    i will keep deep charging boat batteries in mind... thank yoU!

    so what games do you enjoy most on your 6dof @Pierre Lalancette ?
  3. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    None. LOL
    Right now, I am focussing on Asserto Corsa because I only have a wheel controler installed and it is the only driving game that I was able to run with the Pimax so far.
    But I spend all my time on calibration. I would say is almost as hard to calibrate those thing than it is to build them.
    It's all about finding a balance to obtain good feeling when driving, and not destroying everything when you loose control. I already have to repair a strap skipping steps on one of the actuator.
    • Funny Funny x 1
  4. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    lol wow so the fun actually begins when the motion sim is built. i only hope i can get to that point to tweak and calibrate!
  5. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi @hannibal soory for the delay in getting back to you a slight matter of late payment of my Broadband account ...the buggers had the nerve to dissconnect me LOL :- Ok seems the guys have already answered your request for Info , but i'll just add , yes my i still am using the 2 Server psu in Parralel to give me the current boost i need and i do have a car battery in the circuit as well for Regen Dump when im using the 2X60 setup , For my 2X32 setup i hav ethe Resisitors added to the Sabertooth P1 & p2 terminal Block ...... to be honest the system has still not been fired up recently as im bench testing the different Motor /System Controller Options..

    but way back in the day they seemd to be fine over the next few weeks if not sooner the whole rig should be back in action . so if the PSU setup is not up to the Job i'll post updates .. Cheers

    Bill paid so Ye hah im back online for another month ( Mr dont pay till the red bill comes in ....Came unstuck :)
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  6. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    thank you thank you!!!
    hey @wannabeaflyer2 can you tell me how long your 20x60 linear rails are? did you buy them at pre-cut size, or did you buy longer lengths and have them cut yourself? im trying to decipher your diagrams, but im not sure what units of measurement that you annotated on your drawing...

    reply most appreciated!!
  7. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi @hannibal if memory serves me well (don't count on it LOL ) I bought these and designed the Actuator around the standard off the shelf lengths supplied by Openbuilds so the were 500mm long ( no machining required ...) Mind you
    goes without saying if your actuator range is different then im sure they did a Cut to length service at reasonable Price .. Cheers
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  8. Thanos

    Thanos Building the Future one AC Servo at a time... or 6

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    @wannabeaflyer2

    Regarding your email, I'll answer one thing quickly here. To let the Encoder2position circuit to calibrate it needs slower speeds. So set the OFFLINE speed to 20% - 25% !!!!!!

    Thanks
    Thanos
    • Informative Informative x 1
  9. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi @Thanos thanks for the tip just gave up for the day but will kick it back into life and try this...after all the wrong get settings hassle I had, I thought somehere the advice was to leave those parameters at 100/99% so looked everywhere else

    Earlier did the slipping coupler trick to reduce speed and worked on all the 6 pcb's and encoders ,

    I'm sure if that tip works then I can commit to doing full speed actuator position repeatability trails ...cheers
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    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
  10. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    its nice to see you alive and kicking!! @wannabeaflyer2
    i just hope all of you are still around by the time i finish my build!

    i like to ask if i am ordering carbon tubes with 25mm OD x 20mm ID is ok to use instead of 23mm ID?

    im trying to understand everyones DIY builds, so i think it is ok since the screw diameter is 18mm?

    i like your opinon too @SilentChill @Pierre Lalancette

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 4, 2019
  11. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi @hannibal not by the sim but pretty sure the 1605 balls rew diameter is 16mm so the tube should be OK. Remember to allow for what I call the rotating anti wobble insert at the top end of the ballscrew .. that's still doable with the tube you selected (it just reduces ball screw whip at the inside the tube whe actuator is going full speed)
  12. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi @Thanos. thanks for the tip yesterday , had quick test late last night and seems to be doing the trick. So moving onwards and getting closer to pushing the actuator under sim control next .. cheers
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  13. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    i noticed at 1:15 one of your actuators twisted.
    i dont know if this is still your current design with heim joints at the top and universal joints at the bottom...

    is that ok that it twists like that?
    i am debating on making a 360 degree base connection to the bottom of the actuator using hieim joints and modified dolly caster wheels to allow the actuator to twist at limit angles.. @wannabeaflyer2 @Flymen @Pierre Lalancette
  14. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    I think everyone has gone with universal joints at the bottom as any twisting is not good, it will and does effect the small finer movements
    • Agree Agree x 1
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  15. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi @hannibal on holiday so travelling so only just saw your request. The video clip was way back in the very early days of assembling the platform so some items were not fully secure (just wanted to see the monster move lol )

    As mentioned by the crew minimal to no twist is the goal . This will allow the uj to work at optimum level. If there is twisting you could end up with the Uj binding a put excessive loads on the joint as movement caused by Twisted alignment
    • Informative Informative x 1
  16. stashy

    stashy New Member Gold Contributor

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    Guys have a question don't know if it is the right thread. Are the actuators rod lenght same for 100 m and 150mm .scn actuators??
  17. motiondynamics

    motiondynamics New Member

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    Hi everyone, I need to know: the piece indicated by the arrow (see attached figure), which runs between the two aluminum profiles, where it can be found?

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  18. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    I think that's a custom made 3d printed part ?
    • Agree Agree x 2
  19. motiondynamics

    motiondynamics New Member

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    Maybe yes.
    Or an accessory to insert into the ball screw nut?
  20. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    hi @motiondynamics there are so many variations of that part you may well find its not off shelf item , I'd agree with @SilentChill and say its either machined as solid from High density nylon/plastic type material or more often 3D printed with high infill setting for strength :