1. For downloading SimTools plugins you need a Download Package. Get it with virtual coins that you receive for forum activity or Buy Download Package - We have a zero Spam tolerance so read our forum rules first.

    Buy Now a Download Plan!
  2. Do not try to cheat our system and do not post an unnecessary amount of useless posts only to earn credits here. We have a zero spam tolerance policy and this will cause a ban of your user account. Otherwise we wish you a pleasant stay here! Read the forum rules
  3. We have a few rules which you need to read and accept before posting anything here! Following these rules will keep the forum clean and your stay pleasant. Do not follow these rules can lead to permanent exclusion from this website: Read the forum rules.
    Are you a company? Read our company rules

DIY G-seat Insert using 1 AC Servo - WIP

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by sberns, Dec 6, 2019.

  1. sberns

    sberns Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2016
    Messages:
    80
    Balance:
    414Coins
    Ratings:
    +82 / 1 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, SCN5, Arduino
    Haven’t had a ton of time to use the rig lately but everything continues to hold up really well. No more repairs / adjustments needed over the last little while. With the power available in this system, it can almost be overwhelming and excessive to the point that you get pushed in the wrong direction. I’m quite happy with it but always looking to improve further. I would say the biggest issue that I’ve found is that the motion is not quite as linear as I was hoping it would be. It’s not on/off, but if you imagine the arc of a circle, the beginning and end of the motion is less linear than the middle. You can overcome the lack of linearity at the upper extreme by adjusting the axis limits and min/max values, but smaller motion cues are less pronounced than with my previous gseats. This is a design related limitation, and one I’m willing to accept.

    I am going to try one other approach - I bought a rib vest and will attach the bowden wires directly. So rather than paddles pushing against my back and sides, the rib vest will pull my body against the side of the seat. I’m not sure it work well (might be too low on my body) but I’ll be giving that a try in the coming weeks.
    • Like Like x 1
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2020
  2. sberns

    sberns Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2016
    Messages:
    80
    Balance:
    414Coins
    Ratings:
    +82 / 1 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, SCN5, Arduino
    Final update for this thread. Rib vest did not work well. The G-Seat however is great! The non-linear motion issue was much reduced simply by shortening the bowden cables. Very happy with it. Now on to my G-Head Surge attempt.
    • Like Like x 2
  3. cfischer

    cfischer Active Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2015
    Messages:
    178
    Location:
    Colorado
    Balance:
    1,193Coins
    Ratings:
    +95 / 0 / -0
    Nice work man! See any benefit to using springs to push the paddles back when you're not sitting on them?
  4. sberns

    sberns Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2016
    Messages:
    80
    Balance:
    414Coins
    Ratings:
    +82 / 1 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, SCN5, Arduino
    Thanks :thumbs
    I tried to incorporate springs but couldn't get it working well. Tbh, when its in use there's no lag so its all good.
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Trigen

    Trigen Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2018
    Messages:
    400
    Balance:
    2,615Coins
    Ratings:
    +129 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, 3DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    Cool project.

    I suspect something like this would work better as a west. Markus B has used medieval plate armor for it too. For my part id like something i can easily jump in and out of thats attached to the rig.

    Im going to check out a bike shop (dirt bike armor/protection etc) tomorrow and see if i find something suitable for my G force system. Its rigid but still somewhat flexible and i predominantly need surge forces but ill look for good side coverage to allow for a good sway pull

    bike armor.jpg
    • Like Like x 1
  6. Chipless

    Chipless Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2019
    Messages:
    50
    Balance:
    349Coins
    Ratings:
    +22 / 0 / -0
    Just found this project; awesome work! How is it holding up currently? Any chance you could find the time to post the final parts list and STL files? Thanks for sharing all of this with us!
  7. sberns

    sberns Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2016
    Messages:
    80
    Balance:
    414Coins
    Ratings:
    +82 / 1 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, SCN5, Arduino
    Hi,

    Parts list initially posted is accurate except for the bowden cables. For the bowden cables you have 2 choices:

    1. This works well, but the cable is a 1/32" thinner than option 2. If the cable breaks, you will have to reorder another set.

    www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074262LZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    2. This is the option I ultimately settled on. The housing is perfect, as it will accomodate a thicker bowden cable but the bowden cable is too thin - I used the housing and just picked up thicker wire cable from home depot and cable stops from amazon:

    www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01NCWJ8LE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    (if unavailable I believe this is the same one: www.amazon.ca/KKmoon-Enhanced-Throttle-Casing-8252-1390/dp/B073XZYB3H/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=manco+throttle+cable&qid=1597003517&s=automotive&sr=1-6)

    Cable Stops (May need two sets of 2)
    www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000COCQ06/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Home Depot Wire: 3/32" aircraft cable
    www.homedepot.ca/product/everbilt-3-32-7x7-aircraft-cable-galv-/1000114206


    STLs - just rename the files as STL. The slide table STLs slide over each end of the slide table. The end where the motor attaches requires two small holes to be drilled through the aluminum block of the slide table to match the wholes in the STL (very easy to do with a standard drill bit). The linear rail stop STL was used to limit the centering of the slide table during calibration at the time of powering on. It may not be necessary depending on your hardware/driver interface.

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2020