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DIY actuators, plans by Ian BFF. Shortened by me

Discussion in 'Motor actuators and drivers' started by bsft, Mar 6, 2014.

  1. bsft

    bsft

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    Here are the start of the photos and pics of the DIY actuators that I PAID for the plans,and I have shortened the throw with advices from @eaorobbie
    2014-03-02 20.34.59.jpg 2014-03-02 20.35.11.jpg 2014-03-06 11.30.27.jpg 2014-03-06 11.30.43.jpg
    The plans are to be bought from here http://bffsimulation.com/linear-act.php , do the right thing like I did and SPEND the money to pay for the plans.
    Then with Robs help we worked out a 200mm throw long unit. and we widened it to 200mm wide, to help overcome our OCD.
    I am using industrial plastic from here http://www.cuttosize.com.au/ , its a HDPE type plastic as it looks to be as strong as aluminium , but a lot less the cost. Mind you, all bits cost me $300 to get done.
    I am using 12mm thick sides and 50mm thick blocks.
    I can drill them out with a drill press and wood boring bits, do that makes it easier.
    I got the list of bearings , chains, sprockets from a local bearing place, cost me $150 for 2 units.
    The motors to be uses are the famous http://www.motiondynamics.com.au/worm-drive-motor-12v-24v-200w-180-rpm-20nm-torque.html
    The bright mild steel shaft I bought cut to size from a local steel shop. $40
    They will have 200mm throw and should move at about 300mm per second.
    They will use a 3 turn pot for feedback on the chain setup. The chain is being used to move the centre block. I havent got that far yet.
    I will use the famous JRK on them, but as they are 12v motors with a pot, you could use any control board.
    The should work out at about $400 each less JRK, still not cheap, but they should move 50 kg and still have 200-300mm per second travel. I will test it in time once I get closer to completion. They may not be strong enough for full lift, so I will stick them on a balanced frame. Although 6 could do a 6 DOF frame.

    Now if you dont mind, I have autistic kids to see to, a home to look after, dinners to cook, grass to mow, a full time job to go to........I will get some more work done on them later......
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    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 6, 2014
  2. Ads Master

    Ads Master

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  3. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    Looks like you're off to a great start!
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  4. eaorobbie

    eaorobbie Well-Known Member Staff Member SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Yes these should be a viable DIY option for most to build in Wood or Plastic, Plastic is just looks nicer, Once Dave is happy I had planned to draw it up, but we were afraid it might not be the right thing to do as the base design even though we have changed a few things is a BFF creation and for a small fee, I recommend buying the plans from him. Just shorten them to what you require. Support the bloke who originally drew it.:thumbs
  5. adgun

    adgun Active Member

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    Hi
    Please make a joined project for those actuators.
    And chance Ian plans a little bit,use 2 pushrods and stay belanced.
    Ian,s actuators have a design flaw,his slidingblock wants to turn under load
    (Wight pulles pushrod and slidingblock down and chain pulles slidingblock up,result block wants to turn)youre HDPE could ware out soon.
    regards Ad
  6. bsft

    bsft

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    This is Ians design. I dont plan to better it, just to build them as according to the plans, but shorter. And then test them and see how they go according to his design and his parts list.
    I have bought all the bearings on the list and chains. I doubt the HDPE wearing out that quickly. Considering how hard I was hitting the blocks with a larger hammer yesterday, it didnt even mark. I ve seen aluminium blocks get hammer marks under that abuse.
    A ballscrew design would want to twist under load anyway.
    @adgun , what do you mean a joined project?
  7. yobuddy

    yobuddy Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator SimAxe Beta Tester SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    HDPE is my favorite plastic to work with.
    Cutting Boards are made out of this and I have never seen one ware out.
    Except that you can't glue it, It is simple to cut and drill etc...
    Is very hard, and can be used as linier Barings when not under huge weight.
    So I think HDPE is a great choice for this build!
    yobuddy
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  8. bsft

    bsft

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    fortunately it doesnt have to be glued in any spot.
  9. yobuddy

    yobuddy Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator SimAxe Beta Tester SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    Very nice, drill and screws?
    I bet you could get lifting power from the slower 60rpm motors, but this thing is going to be insanely fast at 180rpm!!
    can't wait to see it run!
    yobuddy
  10. bsft

    bsft

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    considering Ian's are 400mm throw, thats a bit too long for race, even 200mm throw is wild, but feedback could be set to 100-150mm. And yes they should really shake things up.
  11. wannabeaflyer

    wannabeaflyer Active Member

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    :cheersHi Guy still waititng for bit for my project and came across this link from Ians site another variation on the theme , im guessing their are more out there LOL so will keep searching , as always Great work guys all good stuff no matter which way you look at it , i had long ago bought Ians interface sp40 card and software and still support the guy when i can as he was one of the main influences that got me Building my 1st 2DOF FSX platform . At that time the only affordable stuff was via ebay and i managed to get 3 actutors that were Parvalux PW60 Gearbox Units but they only had 8RPM output but Bags of torque so they at least allowed me to Get into simming Before i Mothballed that build and waited for prices to come my way -- yeah the hoarder in me still has all the bits and one day they will be used ( Thats my excuse for haging onto stuff anyways )
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  12. wannabeaflyer

    wannabeaflyer Active Member

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    Opps Just realised i did not ask the owner if he'd mind my posting this, but guess as it was Youtube it was ment for sharing :)
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  13. bsft

    bsft

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  14. bsft

    bsft

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    I got the neck and moving blocks holes drilled out and press fitted the bearings (press fit BSFT style - piece of 4 x 2 , large hammer, lots of select words)
    2014-03-06 12.43.00.jpg
    Next will be to start drilling out for the motors to mount on and work out where the boss gears and chain will be set up
  15. SeatTime

    SeatTime Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Here is another one to add to the mix. Don't know if it has been posted on this site before.

    Has anyone thought to mount a seat mover with its high speed 2 axis action to say a larger movement 4 axis frame with slower but higher torque actuators?
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2014
  16. bsft

    bsft

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    @SeatTime , I could fit 50:1 gearboxes the the existing motors and get double the torque easy. It depends if the material holds up though. I dont see why not, but I am not going to try it with these
  17. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    I posted it on the linear actuator's kickstart post:
    maybe it's a better place to brainstorm rather than pollute bsft's topic about his work in progress.
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  18. bsft

    bsft

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    Thanks @RacingMat , my brain is polluted enough as it is.
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  19. bsft

    bsft

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    I finished drilling out the ends of the rods and tapping thread so now to start putting one together to see how bad my construction and alignment is .
  20. bsft

    bsft

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    I had all of 10 mins to quickly trial fit the parts, a biit of extra drilling to allow more free movement, but its on track, well one unit anyway
    2014-03-12 12.21.38.jpg
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  21. eaorobbie

    eaorobbie Well-Known Member Staff Member SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, JRK, SimforceGT, 6DOF
    Sweet looking good indeed, well thats the hard part done on one unit.
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