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Tutorial DIY 3D printed Sim Racing Hydraulic pedals SRT

Discussion in 'DIY peripherals' started by Lebois, Jan 26, 2020.

  1. Chris Indeherberge

    Chris Indeherberge Designer / dreamer

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    I'm also not sure in using cooling liquid. It is anti corrosion but it misses the lubrication factor that oil has.
  2. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...)

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    Well. Do as you want :) This commercial company use cooling liquid without problem. I used cooking oil without problem too XD

    Brake pedal update tomorrow if everything goes well.
  3. Chris Indeherberge

    Chris Indeherberge Designer / dreamer

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    Cooking oil seems to me also a good option. As long as it's greasy enough :)
  4. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...)

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    Brake v5.3 REV2 online :

    "
    BRAKE PEDAL SRT P1 V5.3 REV2
    The SRT P1 v5.3 brake pedal evolves to REV2. The goal is to correct the hydraulic circuit, optimise the lever and prepare the transition to higher versions.

    NEW LEVER :
    • More space at the ball joint, which allows more angle.
    • The preload screw has been moved to be more accessible. We also changed from an M6 hexagon screw to an M5 hexagon socket screw (allen).
    • Slight modification of the design to harmonize the pedals (especially with the future P1)
    • Print informations are now placed below the lever
    [​IMG]

    DIFFERENT HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT :
    • The pressure sensor is now mounted on the caliper. Therefore a banjo bolt with sensor holder M10x1.25 is required instead of the banjo bolt with sensor holder UNF 3/8-24UNF. A new banjo bolt must also be ordered for the master cylinder. The advantage is to ease the bleed procedure (air bubbles were more easily trapped in the top of the banjo bolt that holds the pressure sensor), and also to clear the space behind the lever. This is particularly necessary for the clutch pedal, which can have a long stroke.
    [​IMG]

    When version 6.0 comes out, I plan to keep online all the tutorials and files for version 5.3 REV2.
    "
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  5. 7HUND3R

    7HUND3R Active Member

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    @Lebois, a question, you say that there is a manufacturer that uses coolant in the pedal system. I know that this liquid is not lubricant and that it can damage the inner piston of the cylinder. Can you tell me at least what brand or type of master cylinder uses those pedals that use coolant?
  6. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...)

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    It is the same chinese master cylinder, but I don't know the cooling liquid brand.
  7. ibohan00

    ibohan00 New Member

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    Does the thingiverse page have the latest Rev 2 files?
  8. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...)

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  9. imprrr

    imprrr New Member

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    Hi! I'm VERY impressed with Your work. I have some questions about build. What nozzle diameter did You use to print everything?

    Do You have any idea how to lower the cost of this setup? I was thinking about making double accelerator pedal for accelerator and clutch and hydraulic setup for brake or making hydraulic clutch and brake, but with
    potentiometer. How bad is my idea? :D

    The 500psi sensor is enough for clutch and brake?

    Thanks!
  10. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...)

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    I don't use any specific nozzle...
    The lower cost for brake+throttle is around 100usd, but it depends how you count. Most parts come by lot. It means that if you order 100 screws to use one, it is expensive. If you order 100 screws, that you will use later, it isn't expensive.

    For the clutch pedal, you should consider the hydraulic one because you will then be able to connect the pedal to the incoming gearbox. Avoid mounting a potentiometer if the pedal isn't designed for it. The project is already quite complex. If you try to change the design, it can be a very long road...

    500 psi is plenty enough.
  11. 7HUND3R

    7HUND3R Active Member

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    @Lebois, how do you bleed the slave cylinder if you put the pressure sensor in the slave cylinder?
    I have the slave cylinder from china, ordered by aliexpress, it is motorcycle slave cylinder.
  12. Chris Indeherberge

    Chris Indeherberge Designer / dreamer

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    I guess you bleed the air out with alternating pumping the slave and the pedal a few times. Air can get out via the master cylinder into the reservoir when you pump with the slave.
  13. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...)

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  14. 7HUND3R

    7HUND3R Active Member

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    A question, maybe it's a silly question but I ask it. Can the hydraulic pedals change their response or feel if the brake fluid inside increases its temperature? I ask this because I have the pedals right very very close to a heat radiator.
  15. Chris Indeherberge

    Chris Indeherberge Designer / dreamer

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    Automotive oil (like transmission oil) is designed for high temps above 100 degrees Celcius. Brake fluid, depending on dot rating, is designed for +300 and even up to +500 degrees Celcius for racing brake fluid. I don't think your radiator will be a problem.
  16. Lebois

    Lebois (maybe I am wrong, but who knows...)

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  17. 7HUND3R

    7HUND3R Active Member

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    Of course, you know @Lebois that all your creations are incredible ideas and you do well. The problem is that I compose the gearbox, I would leave it for later since I don't have space to mount that box, which for my space is somewhat large. But I have it pending. I have put the slave cylinder on my SRT pedals, thought for in the future to put your gearbox coupled to that cylinder.
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  18. 7HUND3R

    7HUND3R Active Member

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    do you have a CNC machine?