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DIY 2 DOF Racing Seat

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Markku Lorenz, Dec 6, 2018.

  1. Markku Lorenz

    Markku Lorenz New Member

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    Hi folks,

    today the first electronic components received.
    Hopefully the Arduino will be here tomorrow. Until now i have the IBT-2, Pots, Servo Motors, USB Cable and the Jumper wires (?).
    My goal is to build up a little Mockup for testing purposes. Until now i understand how the Hardware works. So the big "?" is in getting everything working together.But first things first.
    I want to post as many and detailed pictures as possible, so everything will be understandable without to many words...


    Linear Pots / 10k
    1.JPG


    USB Cable / Racing blue
    2.JPG


    The Servo Motors / 5 Volts operating voltage 4.JPG


    The IBT-2 H-Bridge 5.JPG


    Jumper wires / Dupont wires 6.JPG

    Bye
    ML​
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  2. Markku Lorenz

    Markku Lorenz New Member

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    Hi folks,

    today the Arduino UNO received. Sitting here with a cup of coffe, i am thinking about getting parts together.
    At first i downloaded the Arduino IDE SW. After installing i now have this Icon.
    I guess the first step will be to get that Arduino Desktop Icon onto or better into the UNO. Lets try.


    So this one needs to get...
    Shot1.JPG

    into here...​
    DSC00070.JPG

    Now truthfully...
    I´m that sort of Hardware Guy who works with wood and steel. So give me the time to load that Software...

    Maybe it is easier to get that kind of sticker into the Arduino.
    But i can not find the right connector and there came no adaptor with that little PC.

    DSC00005.JPG

    Last time I wrote "first things first"...
    So now its time to read the manual.

    Be sure i know what do.

    Bye
    ML
  3. Markku Lorenz

    Markku Lorenz New Member

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    Hi folks,

    after hours and hours my first Mockup finally works.
    Yesterday I worked nearly 4 hours to understand the Basics of SimTools. Today I spent a few more hours on SimTools and Arduino so finally i´m able to control the small SG90 Servo Motors manually and they work with Live for Speed, too.
    I´m (and my neighbour, too) so happy about that progress.
    Within the next days i want to build a nice looking mockup with a small Seat etc.
    But now I need to get into Live for Speed...


    DSC00001.JPG

    Bye
    ML
  4. Markku Lorenz

    Markku Lorenz New Member

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    Hi folks,

    yesterday I build the "Mockup" out of Lego parts. The SG90 Servo motors have some issues in keeping their right position. Will mean that i changed one Servo motor due to that problem. On this side of my Lego seat everything works fine but the ohter motor still has this issue. E.g. you hit the cars brake, the servo is pulling up the back of the chair an directyl goes fully down (hope you understand). If you watch the Video you can see what happens.
    I think that issue depends on the price i payed (nearly 3€ each) for the Servos.

    Today i tried out the movement of each Axis separately to find the right setting. I guess if you try to set up to much at once in SimTool, there will be no way to find out the right setting for yours.

    Just played with keyboard (man, thats ugly)...





    Bye
    ML
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  5. Haraguchi

    Haraguchi Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, Arduino
    Good afternoon !
    That's right, it's on the right track.

    Good luck !
  6. Markku Lorenz

    Markku Lorenz New Member

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    Good morning folks,

    yesterday the wiper motors arrived. These ones are made for the Mercedes W202 series.
    Independently of that, these motors are indicated with 60 watts /12 volt. Of course there were no information about torque.
    We will see what happens.

    At first i will have to ground isolate the motors and within the next days i want to modify the heatsink for the H-Bridges. The original heatsink maybe work but there was no thermal compound on it so i will do that later with a new type of heatsink which will be used for both H-Bridges.

    Here you can see (or not see) the missing thermal compound.
    15.JPG


    The H-Bridges will be mounted on this heatsink. It´s an older one from a defective Graphics card. Before this one can be used, i will have to grind of the tapped spacers. New mountig holes will be drilled and tapped, so the PCB can be fixed and therefore the 8 Pin Connector has to be isolated as well. 17_2.jpg

    Bye
    ML
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  7. Markku Lorenz

    Markku Lorenz New Member

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    Hi folks,

    things are getting a bit greasy now.
    I partly disassembled the wiper motors (not ground isolated) to change the internal wiring. So right now the soldering iron is heatig up.
    As you can see below, the feedthrough is completely filled with solid resin.
    A few days ago i lend my Torx Tools.

    Yes, you know it.

    Sometimes it´s better to have a second pair of tools...
    Due to that the "gearbox" will be disassembled within the next days in order to rewire the cables (two needed, four left).
    Maybe i can show more effort on Sunday.


    The opposite carbon brushes are for high speed application. The one which will be remainig shall be disassembled as a "spare part".
    18.JPG


    The clearance hole will have to be prepared, too. Actually it will connect the PCB via the screw to GND. So everything around that hole will be removed.
    19.JPG


    Here is the resin filled feedthrough. 20.JPG


    Bye
    ML
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    Last edited: Dec 14, 2018 at 17:35
  8. Markku Lorenz

    Markku Lorenz New Member

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    If you need more infomation or have a special question about my Project, please feel free to ask.
    Actually i have just shown a few things which will have to be prepared before everything can be put together.
    Within the next days (or weeks) i can show you e.g. the process (my way) of grinding away those tapped holes of the heatsink i will use for the H-Bridges.
    As you know, there are a lot of possibilities to do things.


    Yesterday my neighbour came along to take a seat (in the seat...).
    Well, i think we need some butter to get him in.
    And out...
    12.JPG

    Bye
    ML
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2018 at 18:55
  9. Markku Lorenz

    Markku Lorenz New Member

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    Hi,

    now all useless (i hope so) parts have been removed.
    21.JPG

    The connection (red circle) must still be removed so there will no short circuit when fastening the PCB to the gearbox.
    Due to theres no soldering joint for the other carbon brush, the joint (blue circle) will be connected to the surrounding conductor track.
    22_2.jpg


    Anyone needs parts ??? 23.JPG

    Bye
    ML

    Thats´it for today
    Time to lean back
    • Like Like x 1