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Different ways to pivot traction loss frame?

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Building Q&A / FAQ' started by NauticaLNaughT, Mar 12, 2015.

  1. NauticaLNaughT

    NauticaLNaughT New Member

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    I'm going to do a half DIY build using the simxperience universal seat kit. I know it could be done cheaper going the complete DIY route but this works for me. Now to my question. What different ways have people used to make the traction loss pivot, I'm not referring to the motors that make it move but rather how people connect the front of the frame to the support. I'll be building out of 8020 aluminum T-slot profiles would any of the following things work?

    $T2eC16ZHJGoE9nuQgkFbBQPRb6lWdQ~~60_35.JPG
    8020 Pivot plate
    7336_35.JPG
    8020 pivot joint
    chair swivel.jpg
    a chair swivel - descriptions read as if you need pressure downward before they spin
    lazy susan.jpg
    A lazy susan swivel much like the chair one but I don't know if they are easier to spin or not.

    What else and where can I find it?
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  2. telfel

    telfel Active Member

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    Hi

    you could use a castor wheel, remove the wheel and bend the wheel mount flange 90 deg

    regards Terry
  3. GIB SimRacing

    GIB SimRacing Active Member

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    I think people have used lazy susan bearings for that purpose before. @Nick Moxley might be able to give you some insights.
  4. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    I used a lazy susan on my rig and am currently working with a large 1 1/4" bearing and 4 side castor support for a buddy's rig,

    A Chair swivel and lazy susan would be the exact same thing.

    And I hope your aware you have to purchase the software on top of the DIY kit Nautica.
  5. NauticaLNaughT

    NauticaLNaughT New Member

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    I purchased the 150mm motion kit as well w/software. I plan on using it and the simtools software depending on the game. The front end and RT loss component they sell just wasn't going to fit all of my needs so I'm going a hybrid route on this one.
  6. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    gotcha, good luck with the project and I look forward to seeing some pics once you get started.
  7. momoclic

    momoclic Active Member

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    Bonjour,
    Personnellement j'utilise une rotule de pivot inférieur avant de Renault Mégane. N'importe quel rotule de pivot de suspension automobile peut faire l'affaire, neuve ou d'occasion. C'est économique et facile à adapter.

    Hello,
    I personally use a lower pivot ball before Renault Megane. Any automotive suspension ball joint pivot can do the trick, new or used. It is economical and easy to adapt.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
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  8. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR - The Next Generation Staff Member Moderator

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    @momoclic I think what you propose is interesting but is more like a solution for yaw rather than drift.
  9. momoclic

    momoclic Active Member

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    Je ne le pense pas, certes ce n'est pas de la dérive pure mais nous somme très loin du lacet.
    avec plus d'un mêtre de rayon et 15cm de déplacement latéral du siège ?
    Le 2DOF sera juste devant les roues de trottinette.



    I do not think so, certainly not of pure drift but we are very far from the lace.
    with over a radius of mêtre and seat lateral displacement of 15cm ?
    The 2DOF be front wheel scooter.
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  10. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR - The Next Generation Staff Member Moderator

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    My mistake sorry @momoclic, I thought the pivot was going under the seat, but the video cleared that up to show the proper mounting.
  11. momoclic

    momoclic Active Member

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    En fait dans ce cas il s'agit surtout de dérive du train arrière. En cas de glissade avant ça devrait être moins perceptible.

    In fact in this case it is mainly drift the rear axle. If slip before it should be less noticeable.
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  12. abs

    abs Active Member Gold Contributor

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    hello i had success with lady suzan . However i had to fiddle with height by adding plywood...

    I believe a small rubber wheel swivel would do also . just remove the rubber wheel and use the bearing. Use 90 degree brackets at the holes where the center of the rubber wheel attach. If interested i may post pics

    i used that idea to attach the rear traction loss (3rd) actuator for a smooth left and right motion when the rod of the actuator pushes the upper frame from the fixed bottom frame
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2015
  13. momoclic

    momoclic Active Member

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    Oui une photographie nous intéresse !
    Yes photograph matters!
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  14. speedy

    speedy Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys ... I think a Flange bearing ... is a very promising alternative for all the pivot point even under the seat ...
    They could be used instead of the U-joints too ...


    Bearing-Unit.jpg
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    Last edited: May 15, 2015
  15. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR - The Next Generation Staff Member Moderator

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    The downside of flange bearing in pace of uni joints under the seat is that they allow unwanted rotational twist, hence would need control rods to stop it.
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  16. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    I have a question which I don't think has been discussed as much as the other aspects of traction loss. I was about to cut my frame to prep for welding and this question stopped me in my tracks.

    How far forward or how close is the ideal place for the front pivot/bearing?
    Some people have it under the pedals, some further forward. Is there an optimal distance for real feeling, or for speed and control of the motor and levers?
    And I suppose this would apply to the mounting of the wheels and motor as well. Motor under the seat, wheels on the back? or motor and lever at the back and wheels under the seat?
    I have 25:1 gearboxes so I haven't quite decided on the lever configuration yet.
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  17. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Right around your feet, or very slightly forward. Essentially to emulate the Pivot point off the front end.
  18. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    So Somewhere near where the driveshafts would be in a car if possible?
    I'll see what I can measure up later.
  19. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    For Space reason's, make it as long as your top frame....No sense having a 10' long traction loss table and a 6' long rig.