DD-Wheel with Hoverboard Motor

Yes. Read on the gihub.

Will this work with Arduino Leonardo in some way, I can't have access to stm in locality and online is very expensive to me

As labelled on motor AC 200v but vesc is 60v max with 2xx amp DC, how is ac running on dv

Does anyone have 3D stl file for MT6835 magnetic encoder holder on hoverboard motor or do any have ideas how to attach it?

Hello,
Just finished hoverboard DD and now im facing some problems with the forces.
Everything kinda works, but in some points when the wheel going rotating to agressively, the force dissapears, no endstop lock, just encoder reading.
At some points FFB gives massively much of forces by just pessing gas pedal (it sweeps wheel to one or other side)
Maybe it is power supply problem? or it because encoder belt slips at some point?

Using FFBeast software, odesc v4.2 56a, lpd38-AB photoeletric encoder and 12v 21a psu

why we need STM32F407VET6 ; TJA1051 ??

I haven't completed mine yet so take this with a grain of salt. It appears that 12v 20A is about the minimum to have a good experience. 12v 30A is recommended and I believe gives you in the range of 14nm.

Voltage is what determines how fast the wheel will move.

Amperage determines how strong the movement is.

A few have complained that 12v feels a bit sluggish, so I'd say 18v to 22v if you want to be totally safe. I seriously doubt a human could tell the difference in responsiveness between say an 20v and a 56v for example.

The other concern is heat. At 12v passive cooling will be fine. Anything over 22v and your looking at heatsinks and fans. Depending on how hot is where you live and where you game it may be a good idea to think about airflow before you go enclosing everything even at 18v.

I live in the middle of the desert so heat dissipation is usually more of a concern to me than to most.

My experience is to lower the voltage as much as possible to keep everything a bit in normal temps.
I Use a 24v power suply and lowered it to 19v. This creates enough forces and speed, use the software at 40%, more is simply too much.

You're absolutely right, anytime you're DIYing something like this leaving ample head room is always advisable.

So if you're going to use an adjustable power supply then by all means get one rated a bit higher and run it at your desired voltage.

If you're repurposing a wall wort from an old monitor, printer, or laptop then go with your desired voltage and make sure there are plenty of Amps.

Good time of day. Help the divider. I want to use the EMS PRO firmware for the Hoverboard wheel. Is it possible to use Xdrive/Xdrive as an engine driver. How will he do his job? Will the firmware work directly in xdrive/Xdrive? Or will the STMF407 be needed as shown in the manufacturer's diagram?
If Odrive/Xdrive will only perform the driver function, what kind of firmware will be needed?

Hoverboard+Odrive/Xdrive+STM32F407+Power unit=FFBwheel?

Hoverboard+Odrive/Xdrive+Power unit=FFBwheel?

B-G431B-ESC 1 or this one. Sorry I couldn't edit the last post.

I'm not familiar with EMS PRO and what it's requirements are. If you go ODrive route all you need is the

FFBeast firmware+Hoverboard_Motor+ODrive+Encoder+Power_Supply=DDWheel.

I have mine semi functional now and I can say for the power supply you'll want 12v-18v and at least 20A preferably 30A. I'm using 12v 12A presently and it's just not enough torque. It might be a little sluggish but with the low power it's really hard to tell.

All you need is the 24v ODrive/XDrive/XDesc they are all clones of each other and offer a more expensive 56v unit but Voltage = speed not power. There is no way a human being is going to be able to tell the difference between a unit at 20v and one at 48v for all intents and purposes the effects are instantaneous in both instances.

Okay I've hit a snag myself. I was using an old PC ATX power supply but it only had like 10-12A on the 12V rail. I upgraded to a 12V 20A dedicated power supply (running at 14.5V currently) and man torque is like night and day!

My issue is that my wheel is chunking something fierce. I could kind of feel it with the other supply but all of the forces were so weak I figured it was just clipping. I was very wrong! Now when I power the wheel up if feels like I'm running over railroad ties or something.

I'm using a 600ppm encoder with the shaft going through the outside of the wheel hub and mounted into the hole I drilled in the short end of the half axle. Then shaft is seated with some double sided tape and the body turns with the hub. I've tried an encoder setting in the FFBeast setup program of both 600 and 2400, with no major change between them.

I think I may have a phase burned out on this motor? When I test resistance between each phase two of them read between 1.2-1.3OhM and the third leg reads between 1.4-1.5OhM or 1.5-1.6OhM between one of the first 2 legs yet the same 1.2-1.3OhM with the other leg? I hope that makes sense?

I am aware that these BLDC motors have very little resistance between legs and basically look like a short, so most of what I measure could be the resistance in my cheap leads. However that should be consistent right? It seems to me that a .4OhM difference between phases is pretty darn significant given the minuscule resistance these are supposed to show? Unless that's normal for some reason that escapes me?

Also when I was disassembling this thing occasionally I'd catch that distinct burnt electronics smell but I never found anything that looked burnt, discolored, or like it had gotten particularly hot? I know sometimes high amp draw motors just slightly smell that way too.

One other possible culprit could be the way I mounted my wheel? I used an arch over my encoder and on the inside of the wheel hub I used 2 low profile steel nuts with bolts that are just the right length. Maybe these are getting magnetically tugged on when one of the phases is energized? Though if this was the case I would suspect that the leg with higher resistance would change based off of where the wheel is turned to while measuring? I think I'll test this real quick and edit this post with my results.

If anyone has any other ideas or further trouble shooting I should perform I'm all ears and very grateful.

edit: I'm still on the freebie version of the FFBeast firmware. Does buying the full version unlock any settings that may help to fix or troubleshoot this problem?

Fixed it! If anyone else has this problem I fixed mine putting the correct value in for my encoder, (it was set on 600 instead of 2400), and tightening the back of hub motor down all the way. I forgot when I first started troubleshooting I backed the screws on the backside of the hub motor out several turns. Snugging them up along with the correct encoder value fixed me up perfectly.

As a side note I got my 12V 20A power supply. The wheel is nice and strong now, although I wish I would have gotten the 30A one so I could run at a lower % of force strength.