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Cousin of OSW (Open Sim Wheel)

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Gadget999, Sep 23, 2017.

  1. ste94

    ste94 New Member

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    Hi guys, due to quarantine i've had some spare time to mess with my wheel settings and i've found that its linearity at full force is terrible, the only way to get some good results is to use it at half power but then it's too light (i think around 2Nm). BTW i've got a LY1020, 48V 800W with a 12V 50A PSU but i measured a maximum absorbed current of around 30A, so i guess the motor resistance is too high for 12V.
    It's easier and cheaper for me to get a new motor, i've seen a couple of MY1020 36V at 60€, an 800W model with a mounting plate and a 1000W one without it. I'd rather buy the one with the plate for an easier installation. Do you think there's any difference between these two? I always read that specs for these motors are often pretty much made up.

    Thanks!
  2. ste94

    ste94 New Member

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    As i said i tested mine during this period and i noticed something similar, lowering the maximum force gave me way better results in terms of linearity but it's too weak.
    As you can see lowering the maximum force seems to reduce the % at which the motor is giving his maximum force.
    Motor is a LY1020 48V 800W, with around 30A 12V input, tests done with Wheelcheck with 100 steps.


    Cattura.PNG Cattura1.PNG Cattura2.PNG
  3. Frederiksen

    Frederiksen Member

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    Thanks for your reply. Are you talking about how the black wire is mistakenly labelled V-? Just double checking.

    Also I got a coupon from ebay so I guess I am buying a steering wheel this week. My setup should make around 6Nm. Should I go for a 320, 330, or a 350mm? I know that a smaller wheel will make the FFB feel stronger but I've never driven anything with less than a 350 so idk what it's like.
  4. voyxdentro

    voyxdentro New Member

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    Hi good day.

    I need to clarify some concepts in which I make water.

    With a 48V 1000w my1020, which source is ideal?
    1) source gives me 10Nm
    2) doing the Wheelcheck test, does the graph have to be as linear as possible? That is as linear as possible means better represents the details of the simulator?
    3) the most complicated query. What difference is there in putting a 12v and 40A source with respect to a 12v and 80A source (2 sources in parallel)
    5) because a 12v and 100A source is used, the ideal as understood in this thread, instead of using a 24v 100A source or one of 36V 100A or 48v 100A ???

    It is not a problem of money what I have, but of performance. Buying a DD Auguri is much more expensive than this project, so investing here will always be much cheaper than a DD.

    If you wanted more Nm could you use this motor?
    op1- https://tiendamia.com/ar/producto?amz=B0843NG88Q&pName=EVAPLUS-42V-2A-Power-Adapter-PowerFast-3Prong
    op2- https://tiendamia.com/ar/producto?amz=B084RG32NH

    6) If you were to use one of these engines, what source would you need for a better performance?

    7) all questions based on the schematic: arduino -3 ibt-2 parallel - motor.

    8) is there any more "power" option to replace the ibt-2? Is there a higher-ampejare driver that fulfills the same function and is of good quality?

    Please be as clear and detailed as possible in the answers to understand both the operation and the advantages of the different options-configurations.

    Thank you and excuse my English.
  5. Frederiksen

    Frederiksen Member

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    I'm putting it all together now and idk how to attach the my1020 to the 3 ibts in parallel. I've been reading that the leads of a motor are typically coated with a varnish that makes a bad connection if crimped or soldered to. Is that the case for the my1020?
  6. elnino

    elnino Active Member

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    Youre not connecting them to the windings of the motor directly, just the normal wires exiting the motor.

    basically each +/- from ibt out join togeter and go to the corresponding motor wires. same for the power in. plenty of diagrams here. What board are you using?
  7. Frederiksen

    Frederiksen Member

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    Thanks for your reply. So are you saying that the wires aren't coated with any varnish and I can crimp to them and get a good connection? I attached a picture of the wire so you can see.

    I think I could have worded my earlier post better. I understand the wiring diagram; My problem is with physically attaching the wire.

    Attached Files:

  8. elnino

    elnino Active Member

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    oh, yeah thats fine - they are tinned. i would highly recommend solder over crimp however. A bad connection is going to generate heat and when we are talking about these sorts of current its more important you have a very good connection
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  9. Frederiksen

    Frederiksen Member

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    Thanks for your reply. I thought that they were tinned too but that is the section that I stripped so it was under the sheathing. Why would they tin wire under the sheathing? I thought tinning was to make it easier for people to solder to it.
  10. elnino

    elnino Active Member

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    It helps with preventing corrosion of the copper.
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  11. Frederiksen

    Frederiksen Member

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    Oh ok that makes sense. Thanks for all your help. After reading some stuff on the rc forums I was sure I had screwed up. You just made my day.
  12. Narakmir

    Narakmir New Member

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    Hi guys,

    I made myself the OSW DDW with a MY1020 1000W arduino leonardo and 3 IBT with the EMC firmware. The wheel works perfectly, it feels incredible. But the problem that I'm having is that the wheel after a few laps, goes of centre, so I have to continue racing with the wheel turned like 4 or 5 degrees either to the left or right depending on the way of circulation of the circuit. For example, in Monza (clockwise) the wheel goes of centre +4/5 degrees to the right. In Kyalami (counter clockwise) it happens the opposite, -4/5 degrees to the left. I know its an encoder problem, I bought the chinese one (Trihero 1000PPR) and mounted it directly to the engine shaft. According to the instructions it must have like a rubber bond in order to avoid any vibration transmitted to the encoder.
    I connected the encoder supply directly from the computer usb to avoid interference, power loss or something like that. The cables from the encoder goes directly to the arduino.
    Almost completed all my suspects about what the problem could be, but still not solving it. The last thing that is in my mind, is that due to the vibrations from the shaft, the cheap encoder looses some steps and therefore when it reads again, the 0 position has been moved.
    Please, if you could give me some ideas or solutions, I will be really great full.
    Thanks in advance
  13. Gadget999

    Gadget999 Well-Known Member

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    Good job !

    My guess is you are missing pulses, 1000 per revolution is a lot for an arduino to count

    I used 360 pulses

    There may be a way to reset the count to zero everytime you pass the index centre position
  14. Narakmir

    Narakmir New Member

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    Thank you very much! That's a good guess that never took into account.
    Going to try it right now. I'll lower the pulses from the EMC program and see what happens.
  15. Gadget999

    Gadget999 Well-Known Member

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    You will need to fit an encoder with less pulses

    Some encoders have several wires x,y,z

    You may be able to connect them together or use a different wire for less pulses

    Do you have a pullup / pulldown resistor on the signal wire ?
  16. Narakmir

    Narakmir New Member

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    So I cant change it just like that? I have to either change the encoder or change the arduino for a STM board.
    The encoder has A,B,Z (not using), VCC and GND. Actually not using any type of resistor. The encoder uses 5v for supply that comes from an usb.
  17. Gadget999

    Gadget999 Well-Known Member

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    Fit a 1k resistor between 5v and the sensor pin this may help

    Do the b and z wires have less pulses ??
  18. elnino

    elnino Active Member

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    It could be an issue with the coupling from the motor to the encoder. It's going to be hard to track down where the problem is exactly but I am pretty sure there are others with the Leo board and 1000ppr encoders without problems. +1 on adding the 1k pullups to the data lines though.
  19. OZHEAT

    OZHEAT Active Member

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    I know it is a bit late but the solder on the wire is from the previous soldered connection.
    Capillary action will draw solder in to the wire even if it is still coated with pvc, it all depends on how much flux and heat is applied to the joint.
  20. Fatih M.

    Fatih M. New Member

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    Hello everyone. I read all the posts in this topic and decide to make my own dc-dd wheel. Buy all the components and start to build on 30.6.2020. Right now I threw the software into stm32 and made the encoder connection with your posts help. I couldn't run the encoder without resistors. I hope I will not have any other difficulties in remaining work. Thanks to your sharing, I have read the problems that may happen to me and I don't have to search for the solution myself.

    In the meantime I'm living in turkey and all the parts are here to provide the needed 300$
    MY1020 36V 500W
    Chinese 1000ppr encoder
    3x Bts 7960
    2x 12V 40A 500W power supply
    4x 7cm fan
    jumper cables
    stm32F4 Discovery board

    The only problem is that it is not possible to get a motor that is stronger than 500W here. I hope 500W is enough for me.


    I want to thank you very much for your posts, that's why I became a member of the forum. When i complete i will share with you pictures here.
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