Basic 2DOF Configuration and FAQ

I just tried with a green lcd and still the same thing...two lines with black blocks are blinking on startup...and they disappear showing nothing on the LCD...
I cant think of anythingelse anymore..
:

Cauehawaii,

Go back and read some of my earliest posts to see if my experiences have any similarity to your problems.

tronic-s-amc-motor-motion-controller-with-pwm-servo-output-t559-390.html (pages 40-43)

You need to be very explicit on which schematic and firmware/crystal/capacitors/PonyProgram settings you are using. Mismatches at this point will cause problems. Make absolutely sure you have no cold solder joints by doing continuity tests all over the AMC pcb. And follow all instructions precisely.

All this stuff works properly when correctly executed.

R-eng

I did a continuity test and it looks ok on both boards
I am preparing some pics and screenshots to upload later of my full schematic.

I checked R-eng post but I am using atmega 8535 and the firmware is the correct 18mhz for my crystal...I think you had to change your firmware for your correct atmega version...right?!?!

On Ponyprog i followed the instructions from Thanos video guide... it was ok..

I changed to a green lcd now...when I turn the board on, tThe black blocks blink and go off .
if I move Dip Switch 1 -> on and then -> off, the two lines of black blocks stays in there...

can I proceed without the LCD??... connect pots, connect my AMC -> H-bridge... motors and power supply on hbridge and turn them on and test with force profiler??? what do you guys think??

Caue

Why don't you try? If everything work you should be able to make the motors turn each direction by turning the POT1 and POT2 potentiometers. And you can check if you can move the motors from the x-sim2 profiler by centering the pots and using profiler sliders (in math setup).

Perhaps there is something wrong in the connections of the LCD. I had recently hard time to power-on a blue LCD too because of a bad solder...


Regards, Thanos

thanks ..will do that
Just to confirm before I burn everything... I have a 24v(9/12amp) motor and a 24v, 10amp power supply ...no problems with that..correct?
I also changed the sides of my IRF4905 as you said...any jumper specification??
pics attached please just confirm because I dont want to burn the house hehe my wife would kick me by the window for sure

caue

Thanos,
I only have one motor and one power supply connected (didnt buy the second yet), would that be a problem for testing ?? because I connected the motor, power suplpy and pot, and when I moved the pot (or force profiles sliders), nothing happened...
thanks
Caue

Yes, when I began, Thanos had to create a new firmware for the 644 and 24Mhz.

Running only one motor and supply is no problem, but I see that you have a 24V motor, and no heatsinks yet. When you get it running, don't go beyond a few seconds at a time, unless you can monitor the MOSFET temps at the body. You don't want to risk blowing them.

I haven't read your entire posts, did you verify that the DSMhb is functional on its own? By that I mean that you bypass the AMC and inject 5V directly to the appropriate PWM channel and Motor On pin at the connector?

R-eng test dsmhb procedures.txt

YES,
I just got H-board working using the potentiometer and Force profiler... I feel much better now..lots of frustration just went away...Thank you Thanos and R-eng for the major help :

I did not want to keep it running for too long without the cooler and heatsink..but I noticed that I could move the motor only to one side.

The Y-axis moved the motor only when I slided it down...
noob question -> hopefully some wrong connection on my motor??...hopefully nothing major on my motor or board ...please let me know what you think could be this problem before I buy the second motor...now I feel motivated to get this done ...

another noob question ->can I use only one power supply for both motors?

regards
Caue

Did you see the status leds light for each motor direction? You can watch the status leds even if no motor is attached !!! If the leds work fine then try your motor to see if it can reverse directly from the power source.


See how the Status Led lights should behave here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xe2v6zZ7P28

Thanos

to reverse directly from the power source, what would be the cables to connect on + and - from power source? Not very clear for me.
Is it possible that my motor turns only to one side or all of the wiper motors turn both sides?
I will test the leds tomorrow morning...
I believe I will need two power supply, one for each motor, corect?

hey guys, sorry I dont know the name of the component...but I pointed it on the picture below...is getting hot very very fast when the pot is connected....
just burnd my finger...but was good so I could turn it off on time...Update: I think was a short on the Pot connectors

Please what do I connect on M1 and M2 from motor??

This part is a voltage regulator (LM2940) which will get hot without a cooler.
If you don't have a cooler available you can just screw a piece of metal on the part with the hole in it. Don't let this piece of metal touch other parts!

Thanks Kruemel...I will set a cooler on top of it...and also on the H-bridge for the IRFs...
I still could moved (control) the motor only to one side...I am trying to figure out what is the problem...

Two wires come from the motor (I believe + and -), what goes to M1 and M2 on the H-bridge?
Also, when I move Pot1 all the way to one side, it turns the AMC off...is that normal?

No - that's not ok for shure! You connected the pot wrong.
Look at the picture: Left is always the wiper from the pots. If it works in the wrong direction, you may change + and -, but NEVER connect + or - to the wiper.

I do not need a heat sink for the LM volt reg at all.
Hand-hot is ok, but if it continues to get really hot, then you have an additional shortcut somewhere most likely.

regards

Maybe this will be clear for you. The wiper is typically the center tap, and it corresponds to the W pin at the AVR connection.

Re: M1 and M2 connection, it does not matter since you can reverse these to change directions either at the motor or the DSMhb

Re: the metal for heatsinking, use aluminum and thermal grease.

R-eng

May I add, that if you connected wrong a potetiometer once, then the potentiometer may need replacement as its resist material may burned by the short-circuit (that also turns off the AMC!!!!!). I've destroyed a potentiometer that way once and the room was filled with nasty burned electronics smell ...

ok guys, the potentiometer connection is fixed..thanks a lot
Now I think I moved to another step...
I believe that the sliders from Force Profiler should move the motor to one side when slided up (or left) and to another side when I turn down (right), correct?
This is not happening...the picture below shows that the Point zero (stopped) for the mottor is sliding all the way up...the motor is turning only to one side
unless I change connections M1 and M2, then it changes rotation side...
please let me know where to get info for this next step...

thanks
Caue

There is a big green start simulator button...you should use it ;D

Never mind, I have disssoldered nearly a complete RnR interface for troubleshooting because I had forgotten to press the start button^^

Regards

hehe I did press the start button to test...I just turned it off while I did the print screeen...
after I press the start simulator button it worked fine..but I can only reduce the speed of the motor sliding the sliders, I cannot invert the rotation side of the motor... it only turns to one side

but I pressed the start button and configured the universal serial output to: AB~255~~y~~x~~

sometimes I forget to plug something on the main plug and I just go crazy looking for the problem, but unfortunately i dont think that is the case now

I appreciate any comment

is there a manual for force profiler configuration?