Basic 2DOF Configuration and FAQ

Another thing I noticed on your boards, is that he used simple ceramic 22pF capacitors next to the crystal, while its preferred to use Ceramic Multi-Layer ones:

http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/2222-680-34229/capacitor-22pf-100v/dp/1138845

The Multi-layer capacitors have a light mustard color and they are much smaller!!! They provide a more clean oscillation signal and they are preferred since Crystals depend on them to get start oscillating!

Regards, Thanos

Thanos,
Thanks a lot...I will try your advices one at the time trying to eliminate the variables here and I will send the feedback soon...

regards
Caue

ok I am waiting for the STK500 which I bought from ebay...I asked for fedex express so I hope it is here in max 5 days
in the meantime, I will work on my soldering skills, I am also buying the right tools for that and even doing some boards myself this holiday just to leanr and practice..I am worried I may change my profession with this project

I have also some variables to check before I try to proggram the pic using STK, such as the serial cable, the 22pf capacitor and the lower crystal...but I want to do that myself and not depend on other people, so I want to practice a little soldering here before I mess up with my boards

hey guys, please feel free to drop me any toughts...
regards
Caue

My STK500 USB programmer just arrived,
I think I am ok with the split cable, only the vcc connection I could not find on your ilustration..but I think it is ok

Update

I dont know if I am in the right track, but when I go to Auto Connect... AVR Studio it says:

Setting Mode and Device Paramters...OK!
Entering Programming Mode..OK!
Reading Fuses . 0xD9, 0xE1, ..OK!
Leaving Programming Mode.. OK!

Update

1. I tried then to set the fuses as in ponyprog and flash it in one of my boards, it gave me a wrong message and now I cant get into program mode anymore, it says:
Entering Programming Mode...FAILED
Maybe problem with the Crystal or I just did something wrong..maybe I set the wrong clock and locked my chip?? is that possible? (the other board is working fine)

Update: I tried a different atmega and it worked again, I think it locked my atmega..right?

2. Am I in the right track??
3. Where do I get the latest firmware for the 18Mhz Crystal?
4. I cant choose BOOTSZ1 and BOOTSZ0 at the same time on AVR Studio (only one at a time allowed). How do I set the right fuses on AVR studio to be able to upload the hex file?

5. I tried to use Ponyprog and it is finding COM3 (USB for STK) now but it is not probing...should I stick to AVR Studio?

sorry for so many questions...but without you guys I think I wont be able to get it working...
PLEASE HELP
regards
Caue

Hello,
I just need to know what are the correct fuses to set on AVR Studio that are compatible with the reference from Ponyprog...
I been researching around but could not get the correct answer...perhaps someone here has already used AVR Studio with AMC programming..
thanks in advance

regards
Caue

Hi,

These photos will help you set the correct device and fuses:







A tip: You must have the AMC board powered with its own power source. Also you MUST connect the VCC pin from the AMC board to the VCC stk500 cable pin. This is used by the STK500 as voltage reference to be able to program it correctly regardless the operating voltage.


Regards, Thanos

vcc is the one after the 2 gnd pins, correct?
I am searching for the correct vcc pin as I cant find on the diagram (or I am missing something)... how about the 3 jumpers? and the servo power jumper??

I program one of my boards and after that the LCD did not show the black stripe anymore (dots), it is blank now..does not show anything..

Please let me know about the vcc so I will try the other board with the correct vcc connection..


thanks a lot man..
I will send you a nice brazilian gift for your help I will contact you pm later on ...

regards
Caue

ahh btw
I am using PWM_AMC15_2DOF_V1_CRYSTAL18.HEX as the firmaware...this is different from the one you used with Ponyprog on the videos...which one should I use and where to get that?

thanks again
Caue

Hi,

Oups, sorry. on the STK500 this pin is named VTG (or Voltage Target):





:


You can use any PWM_AMC15_2DOF_V1_CRYSTALxx.HEX file you want. If the boards are ok it will power up and show some results on the LCD. You need the exact number to fit to your crystal to be able to make it communicate over serial connection with profiler.


Regards, Thanos

thanks a lot man
I went trhough the procedure, the red led flashed as indicated, AVR studio did the whole process and it was OK. The Dots on the LCD disappeared and there is nothing there anymore... the black dots were very light because of the blue backlight..but I could still see them..now I cant see anything on the LCD...

could it be the blue backlight LCD..or something more serious?

I am getting really frustrated with that

I have a normal lcd (without blue light), and when I tried to move the lcd board to this one, I f*** it up...good I have another lcd board...but I am afraid to mess it up again moving to the green lcd...

PS. When I try to open force sender...it says it cannot find a joystick
let me know your thoughts...
I will keep everyone updated

regards
Caue

Can you find and post here a link to the datasheet of your LCDs? or their model and a photo... The blue backlight LCD needs contrast control potentiometer...


Another thing you should do to be able to see messages on LCD is to turn on the first DIP switch!



Regards, Thanos

Hi Thanos,
I just built the potentiometer wires to control the contrast...it seems to work ok...when I turn to one side the whole board (LEDs) and LCD turns off..when I turn to the other side the LCD turns on (the black dots blink on the lcd) and the LEDS also turn on..but nothing is shown...as the pics below... The contrast went from 0 - max... nothing in between...something wrong with the wires..perhaps??
PS. the wiper wire from my potentiomter is the left one...like in your video guide (blue baoter potentiometer )..i think...

I will search for the LCD datasheet...

brother this is very frustrating... I move forward 2 steps and move back 1 step...
I am feeling bad for asking so many questions and consuming your time..but there is nowhere else to ask questions about this project..so if you feel I am abusing..please let me know ok...

I hope to get there one day...
regards
Caue

some pics of my lcd and a video (sory for the low resolution but I only have my cell phone camera) of what is going on...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40GheOoiTpM

is the problem on the
1. LCD??
2. AMC board?? or
3. firmware was not installed correclty??
4. Potentiometer connection...???
sorry no good with symbols..what is what here ..perhaps the connction is wrong
1www3
2--|cw


Update
I also used a piece of wire to connect the middle pin of the jumper switch for the backlight with the input pin of the LM2940 that exists on the AMC1.5 board! as instructed and nothing changed

: :yippiee: :

i was not sure what were the correct wires from potentiometer to lcd, so I actually tried all the combinations ...some of them had the black stripe showing for more time than others...but all of them were blank after a few seconds...if it is showing the black dots normallyfor a few seconds (as it was not programmed)...it should show the firmware version clearly as well...right? perhaps problem with programming???

ahhhhhhh I am going crazy here...

regards
Caue

the problem may be on the programming part...
nothing on LCD..but the black blocks blink when the board is turned on...
cant connect with hyperterminal...Force-Sender also cant find...
any thoughts someone??

one more thing, with the dip switch 2 ON, the black blocks are showing all the time on the lcd... dip switch 1 ON, the black blocks will blink for 2 seconds and goes blank
The lcd is Winstar but I cant read its model..
tomorrow I will try to build a new board for the green LCD (WinstarWH1602A)

regards
Caue

ok, just bought some virgen boards, support for the board, mini drill, new atmega, crystal, IRFs, usb-serial converter, new lcd... lots of things for a testing day tomorrow...I really hope to get moving...I am already thinking about burning the boards or throwing in the ocean lots of frustration for now :?

I will post tomorrow a feedback about my tests and I hope I dont need more help.... but in the meantime I appreciate any comment from you guys ;D

regards
Caue

Just have patience with it. Read a lot any info you can on the AMC thread and the DSMhb thread also.

Take one step at the time. Its easier to spot an error this way.


Regards, Thanos

@Thanos

If the problem would lie with the LCD, could he just not have it connected and take PWM/Voltage measurements directly at the 10pin, Motor output connector to the DSMhb? At least that would isolate whether it is an LCD problem.

Also, cauehawaii, which schematic was used for the build? I remember having an issue with the design prior to Thanos' repost of the schematic per my suggestion.

P.S. The old X-sim 1.6.9 plugin requires that you have some kind of usb joystick/steering connected to start up Force-Sender. That caught me by surprise early on. Any cheapo will do; Otherwise, beg-borrow-or steal :brows:

R-eng

thanks for the post, I am using layout 1.5,
I was able to program a new Atmega with Ponyprog and it was perfect (I used a new serial cable)..but the LCD now shows two lines of black blocks...even with Ponyprong reading the correct data after programming


I connected my momo joystick and Force sender was ok, force profile also ok...I could move the graphics and everything seems to be ok..but the LCD still has the double line of black blocks...

If the problem would lie with the LCD, could he just not have it connected and take PWM/Voltage measurements directly at the 10pin, Motor output connector to the DSMhb? At least that would isolate whether it is an LCD problem.

Could you please explain a little more how I could do this..sorry I am really learning as it goes and I would appreciate some more details about the procedure..I am still a newbee

I think it is something as wrong jumpers, some worng connection I may have made...but I will try to use a green lcd right now and I hope this is the problem...


regards
Caue