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Showroom Barry's Racing Sim - IT'S ALIVE (with motorcycle capability (sometime in the future))

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Barry, Apr 10, 2014.

  1. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    Im thnking about more of a roller coaster type design where there are wheels/bearings on the top and the bottom and a steel bar that would act as the track
  2. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    Any thought on how far forward the point of pivot needs to be ?
  3. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Barry Are you planning on having any Castor's at the front end on either side of the lazy susan ?


    If i press on either side of my top frame at the front end ( base is 21" wide and i have a 12" lazy susan) the frame will somewhat "Flex" which isn't at all noticeable when racing, but if i were to scratch build another, i would 100% add more support around the top frame/lazy susan. Even with a Pillowblock/Flanged bearing i forsee this being the case. With the bearing having That much less surface area between the 2 frames.





    Up near the pedals is ideal, Any further is imo Overkill.
  4. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking closer to the seat, under my feet when extended. As for the sway an idea I have had is to have a pivot point in the center. put a slide bearing on each edge and a slide bearing going forward so as you movce left, the left side goes backwards, the right side slides right and forward.
  5. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Nick I will probably use sliders of some kind just as failsafe stabilisers just to stop the bearing seperating from the flex you described.

    The center of my front bearing will be approximately 6 inches or so in front of my pedals. And my wheels at the back will be just behind the back of the seat roughly halfway between the seat pivot and the motor mounts at the back

    This is the front of the lower frame where the lazy susan will be mounted on top of.
    [​IMG]

    And this is a bit of a mock up of my wheel, pedal, and gear shifter mounts.
    [​IMG]

    And these are the sliders which came out of the factory which I might make my traction loss wheels from. They're some sort of extra strong heavy duty bushes. I just need to play about with one to see if I can make a wheel out of it.
    [​IMG]
  6. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Those slider's look just like chunks of Nylon cut to fit.

    I looked at my rig tonight pushing/pulling and sure enough even tho there's only 2-3" on either side of the 12" lazy susan, the bearing itself is "opening up" a slight amount and causing the wobble. Ill be promptly sourcing some small castor's and will add a simple block on the side of my rig to take out this wobble.
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  7. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Yip, I think they are nylon but compared to a couple of other bits of nylon I have here they're much harder for some reason.
    My Carbon fibre rods have arrived. They're seriously nice pieces of kit. I just need to get the ends made for them now.
  8. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Harder than Nylon, Thats delrin then. VERY durable plastic.
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  9. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Seat rods arrived.
    [​IMG]

    And i got another puck transfucer to add more kick and even out the wiring to the amp which will drive them.

    [​IMG]
    • Like Like x 3
  10. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    More progress

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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  11. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    [​IMG]
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  12. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR - The Next Generation Staff Member Moderator

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    Love those clip on mounts, I plan to try them at some stage as the small bolts I use for the JRKs on my sim are a real pain.

    I have to remove the whole project box base plate to change a single JRK.

    Your mount approach is much better for servicability in small places!
  13. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    I'm really impressed with them. They're nice and solid. I managed to get the plastic trimmed just right for them to be a perfect tight fit and the holes drilled are 4.5mnm.

    As the plastic I ordered was 3mm I had to just touch the router on the back where the holes were to thin it down just enough for the clips to seat tightly. They turned out pretty good. I'll work out a way of mounting them at the weekend. I haven't really sussed out where everything is going on the sim yet as I haven't had time to mount the motors or the lazy susan.
  14. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    @Barry : would you mind sharing the URL of your clip supplier?
    thks
  15. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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  16. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    These are the wood inserts I'll be using to mount the steering wheel, shifter, and pedal wooden panels.
    This means no bolts will be sticking through the other side of the wood for a more professional finish.

    [​IMG]
    • Informative Informative x 1
  17. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    I got the shifter mounted and took the steering wheel out to measure it up....... then decided the wheel was way to high. So I had to cut the front of the frame down and reweld everything again where the steering wheel mounts.

    I lowered the steering wheel about 5 inches.
  18. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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  19. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Anyone want to advise on castor wheels for the traction loss? I've decided that it'll be cheaper to buy wheels rather than make them.

    Couple of things I'd like to know. Is it better to have bigger wheels? or wide wheels?

    Here's a good website I found: https://www.technicawheels.co.uk/industrial-wheels
  20. AceOfSpies

    AceOfSpies Living the Dream!

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    Hi @Barry I tried polyurethane fixed castors but found that although the sim moved empty, it wouldn't move with me in it. I switched to in-line skate wheels which have bearings and the sim moves no problem with me in it. My sim is a platform mover and I weigh 110kg.

    Mike
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