Articsimulator - Joyrider made of wood

I guess I need something like this: http://www.chieftec.eu/index.php?option ... Itemid=752 (cost about 90 euro here in Norway) Is the specs ok?

The 650W supply will give you 53A combined (V1 and V2) on 12V, and the 750W will give you 60A combined.

If you combine the two rails and connect both motors it should handle your motors under load, but I cannot say for 100%.

Unfortunately there is no current limiting on the AMC, so the PSU will shut off anytime you spike above it's current limit.

OK, that means I need a bigger one to be 100% shure. You are a good help Frakk, I am learning all the time. How is the progress in your own project?

Which project? I have too many to finish any of it...

So have I! Maybe we should open a topic named What do x-simers do when they are not building simulators I was thinking about your plan for a simulator sized for something bigger than a lego figure (I believe you have one)

I have enough plans, but no simulator yet.

Hopefully soon...

Hi Guys can i ask wher you bought your wiper Motors and did you have to modify them to get the spped correct in both directions Hvae seen a motor for sale at Pollen.de but the output shaft is very short and may be difficult to add the lever ?? http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/OTA2OTg2OT ... 16_03.html

Opps Guys just had closer look at that motor -- think its a bit on the small side so will keep looking

My vipermotors are from 1989 Toyota corolla, bought from a junkyard. I dont know to much about the specs on them, but I have tested just with battery, avr, h-bridge and a pot, and I found that they are able to move the seat with me in it. The sim is not ready for testing yet, so I dont know if the speed is good enough.

Fred

General question guys has anyone used elctric wheel chair motors for their projects , i have a couple but did not want to try them with my AMc setup because iwas worried about current and blowing up my H bridge ( they are 12-24 Volt with Electronic brakes (Which i can disable) and the shaft spins at 60 RPM -- any feedback on ther suitability with Thanos's Kit would be appreciated did not mean to hijack this thread but were all looking for alternative actuators and thought i'd ask the question again Cheers guys : :

Time to ask for some help: I have mounted vipermotors and potentiometers on my sim base. I have downloaded some game profiles (gtr-evo)and I am trying to test if there is any action in game, but I have some problems (have read profiler manual)

This is working:
I use profiler on a netbook with a networkcable to game-pc. The forces in the game is visible in the anayzer in math setup, so connection with profiler-pc is ok.

The com port is recognised in output setup. (I use ST-LAB usb to serial) When i click start, there is no error-warnings

I use Thanos hardware and. I can turn the motors with potentiometers when motors is connected to h-bridge, so amc and h-bridge is working fine.

I have used an older version of x-sim to go thru the amc guide. I am able to turn motor with Y and x sliders as shown in this guide, so there is connection between amc and profiler.

This is not working:
The two first numbers on lcd does not react when game is running, they show just 128

The motors does not react when game is running.
I believe my problem is in the output setup, but I cant understand what.

How can I test my output setting without running a game in profiler version 2.0.
Any suggestions what I can do? (I guess I just missed some basic informaitons)

Fred

Try it with the Test Plugin in the Sender. This should let you simulate game data with sliders.

Also make sure the packet you are sending is what it should be. Set resolution of each axis, proper baud rate, etc.

Have you had the AMC working with the serial port before?

Thanks Frakk. i have used some hours now. dont know exactly what I did but now I am able to turn motor with slidebar in profiler! getting closer here 8)

next challenge is mounting potentiometer, so I will have a look around for ways to do it. My pot is turning about 280 degrees. My first attemt was not good enough.

Fred

Now I have mounted my potentiometer on one motor, and I am able to move the motor with slidebar, also with pot mounted. The motor turns a little to much, so here is the questions:

is there a way to reduse degrees of rotation without changing the gearing on the potentiometer?

Fred

You can easily do this in the Profiler.

More ways to do this, the most convenient is the percent limiter in the 1:1 G-Force Math plugin.
You can also modify the input range of the Input data above this limiter, or add a separate Percent Scaler plugin to your Math line for the axis.

Thanks again Frakk. Until now I have consentrated on all the hardware and seat, so I have a lot to learn about the software setup. Looking forward to get home from work and do some testing. I have tried to run it with Race07 and there was respons on the vipermotor, so I am pretty sure I am close to a working sim. :yippiee:

Fred

Here we go again: I am burning fuses today :thbd: After testing and learning about profiler with 1 motor and all workin well, and no overheating on the mosfets. I connected motor 2. It turned one way and then the fuse (10 amp.) burned. First i was afraid it was a mosfet (and it might) i tried a 25 amp fuse, the motor turned and another fuse burned. I disabled motor 2 and tried motor 1. but there was no reaction and another 25 amp fuse burned. So here is my questions to all good helpers:

How many amp should the fuse be (placed before h-bridge)?

How can I know if my mosfets are ok? (they look nice on the outside)

I believe there is no + or - on the connections on the motors since they turn both ways, am i right?

Suggestion what happend?

(I will test mosfets with a small motor and 5 volt)

Fred

Did the motor try to turn in the other direction and shot the fuse, or did it turn in only one direction to do it?
Do you have the motor cases isolated from the brushes? Do you have the case isolated from any ground connections?
How did you disable motor 2?

I say a MOSFET or something is shorted in the Motor 2 half of the circuit, most likely caused by shoot through.

You could verify this by isolating the (+) supply for Motor 1 and Motor 2, with separate fuses.
If M2 fuse is blowing all the time and M1 works fine then you know.

You can check with replacement MOSFETs to see which one is bad, or you could check with the diode test of a multi meter.

Motor polarity doesn't matter, unless you have the case connected to ground, as well as to one of the brushes.
In that case, driving in one direction will be a dead short for the MOSFETS.

What happened? Who knows....? You were the only one there...

You can replace the h-bridge to a couple of these: http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/706

The motor turned one direction, and stopped on the angel its mounted on (The rotation is limited by the angel). The ground cable is connected only to a steel angel the motor is mounted on. The rest of the rig is wood. Motor 2 disabled by disconnecting cable. I have replacement mosfets, but must try to find the problem first so I dont blow up them too. If the mosfets is burned, I guess the motor will have no power, or am I wrong?

What do you mean by shoot throug? As you may have understand, I am no expert in electronics and elektrisity, so its a miracle I have come this far. And thats because of all the responses in this forum! :

You are right,, I was the only one there (no one to blame : )

Can it be something wrong with motor 2. I got the impression it moved faster than motor 1.

Will do testing tonight with smaller dc motors and less voltage. And I have bought a fuse holder box and new fuses. Is 15 amp suitable?

Fred

Shoot through means both of the MOSFETs are open on the same side, creating a direct path across them shorting the (+) to (-).
For more information google H-Bridge and you will understand.

It is not the motor that burned it out and a smaller motor is not going to change anything. Your fuses blow without the motor in the circuit...

Do as I said, and disconnect the (+) completely from M2 half of the bridge. By disconnecting the motor you just remove the load, the shoot through will still be there because the MOSFETs are in the circuit.

Alternatively you can remove a side (MOSFETs) from M2 bridge. This way you can isolate the short.