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Adding 2DOF motion to my 80/20 GS-4 Rig

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by HoiHman, Feb 4, 2015.

  1. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    Think about ditching the side brackets of the GS-4 and mounting the pivot directly to the bottom of the GS-4. This should give me some extra clearance on the side and i can loose some weight.

    I will tilt the seat back to the preferred default position simply by extending or shortening the rods at the back of the seat.

    The bar that moves the seat will be changed into the usual center bar made of 80/20.

    My new plan still needs to be drawn into sketchup . I will also try to order most of the 80/20 pre cut, for easy assembly.


    @noorbeast where can find the those yellow extension rods? What diameter connections do you use M10/M12/M14?

    [​IMG]
  2. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    The bars are made from square steel tube with nuts welded to the ends. The heim rose joints most commonly used are either M10s or M12s. Some people use tie rod ends instead.
  3. bsft

    bsft

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    • Like Like x 1
  4. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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  5. Archie

    Archie Eternal tinkerer

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, JRK
    It appears there is some global agreement that drive/tailshafts MUST be sold only to people wanting to actually put them in a car.

    Using a car part for anything other other than a "car" seem to blow these poor guys minds :)
    • Agree Agree x 1
  6. bsft

    bsft

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    yes I got that an the wrecking yard I buy from, I just said if you do not want to sell me a cheap half rusty bent tailshaft, I can go elsewhere.
    You may actually have to go visit these wrecking yards. Stop trying to "ebay" everything. Get out of the house.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, JRK

    [​IMG]
    • Funny Funny x 1
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2015
  8. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    The guy at my wreaking yard was helpful, as he had already had someone in previously who wanted wiper motors for a motion sim, so was really interested about a second opinion if that would actually work.

    It is other people who are surprised to find that a rig that includes alternator brackets, bits from a Harley motor bike, buttons, brackets, bolts and the ubiquitous tailshaft can be something that is not just functional but can also be very beautiful in and of itself.

    My rig started as a sketch on a paper tablecloth at an Indian restaurant while out with friends. One of them was over yesterday to try it out and was impressed with the actual realization of a concept to a reality.
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    Last edited: Feb 16, 2015
  9. bsft

    bsft

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    I usually have to use this method for them to understand
    forcemf1.jpg
    • Funny Funny x 3
  10. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    Well guys i finally found one, but it wasn't easy.

    In my country most junkyards have been turned into recycling businesses. Because they hardly ever sell a driveshaft of a rear wheel drive car, almost all of the shafts have been turned into scrap metal.

    We went to one of the biggest companies in our country and they had only one drive shaft.

    But thats more that enough.:)

    [​IMG]

    It's from a van (iveco new daily) and has 3 universal joints. It cost me 40 euro and is in perfect condition.

    Because the universal joint is from a van it's pretty big and solid and the shaft has a 76mm diameter


    I already cut one universal joint of and now i can start do some measurements to order the water cut parts.

    [​IMG]


    The first rod ends for the SCN6 arrived today too, made out stainless steel.

    [​IMG]


    This picture illustrates the limited space i have available. I'm thinking of moving the top rod ends to the side of the seat to gain a little bit extra angle.
    • Like Like x 5
    • Winner Winner x 1
    Last edited: May 6, 2015
  11. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    Spend almost half the day doing measurements is sketchup, fighting for every MM of space

    Determined the COG yesterday, which is the starting point of everything of course.
    My rig will be different though. The pivot and the acculators will be mounted on rails, so i can slide everything forward incase i need to pass behind the seat:

    [​IMG]

    The easy way would be to use a 80/20 bar for mounting the SCN6 acculators, but i didn't like the way it looks. So i designed my own acculator mounting option. It will be an U-shaped profile with and rubber isolator as a inline damper.

    [​IMG]

    Just one question.

    Do you guys think 3mm thick steel will be strong enough for this acculator mount?:sos
  12. bsft

    bsft

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    Dunno about 3mm steel, is it for holding the actuators like a cup?
    As for COG, best thing to do is actually balance the frame with you on it.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  13. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I would think 3mm is too light for anything subjected to substantial forces like mounts.
  14. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    I did measure the COG with me on the seat, and after that i put the measurements in sketchup.

    Because i want to have my GS4 already in a tilted backedwards angle, the base point is the COG. If it's further back, it automatically raises the seat with same pivot hight.

    I'm a litte bit in doubt about the thickness. Don't want to over engineer the entire rig. The 3mm steel would be a U shaped profile, which should be very strong due to its shape. The end cap which will actually hold the acculator and the brackets which will hold the bolts to the rig will be 4 mm thick. (blue)

    [​IMG]
  15. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Thanks that is much clearer. So it would be a total 4mm base thickness and 7mm side thickness that is supporting the ends of the actuator, with the remainder being the 3mm casing. If so then yes I think that is enough.
    • Like Like x 1
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2015
  16. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    Thanks for the reply. I'm ordering the parts at the moment :) ( with a little more confidence now )
  17. bsft

    bsft

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    I used 16mm MDF sheet to make my actuator holders
    2014-01-21 11.33.37.jpg 2014-01-21 11.33.46.jpg 2014-01-21 12.26.21.jpg
    • Like Like x 1
  18. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    @bsft not sure if would feel comfortable with using MDF, but great solution.

    Just ordered all the parts for the acculator holders, frame under the seat which holds the pivot. Everything is watercut to the MM, hope i measured everything right and all the parts will fit like a glove.
    Delivery time is 2 weeks though.
  19. bsft

    bsft

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    sounds good. As said, its what I can afford with the prices charged around here I work with what I can. Good that you can get the metal cut up.
    The MDF works for me and works well.
  20. HoiHman

    HoiHman Active Member

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    MDF is awesome material. I build my first rig out of MDF, but i have moved on to a full metal rig.

    The long U-shaped brackets in the picture above are 16 euro per piece if i buy 2. If i order 3 there are only 13 euro each??.... So i ordered three.

    The smaller blue ones (in the picture above) are around 8 euo each.

    The prices of each individual part are ok, but i need a lot of different parts, so it does add up. I also ordered some special brackets for the deskmount i will be building for the accuforce.