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6 DOF from scratch

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Pierre Lalancette, Dec 18, 2016.

  1. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    If you're serious tig welders are usually a bit on the expensive side once you're all in but if you can stick weld good with one hand you may be able to master it with practice. Even more so if you've already mastered other one handed skills. :think
  2. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Doing it yourself is part of the fun. Something I discovered with this build. I've accomplished thing (badly) that I never though I would be able to do. It just wasn't in me. But when you want something so bad, you just don't have the choice. You do it, because no one else will start it for you. They will help, but you have to show that you are serious, and you will do it with or without them. Then, they'll pity you and help you out. That's the way I do it.
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  3. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Christmas again. Big boxes... I don't remember ordering something that big. I know there should be glue tubes.

    IMG_2220.JPG

    And I forgot the damn autofocus again. I remove it when doing videos.

    And then I opened the boxes. Boys, did I screw up big time? You see, I was expecting this:

    IMG_2221.JPG

    So, I ordered 3 of hem, and I got this.

    IMG_2222.JPG

    Three of those! I kept 2 wrapped. Man, what am I gonna do with all that? Seriously, they were about the same price. I did not check the quantity. My new dispenser is useless with those. Oh, man! My days of messing with glues are not over yet. :confused:

    The other box is a cheap hand break that I will convert for the rig. I did not expect it so soon. Still waiting for electronic parts. And I have to find back the tutorial about it. Behind, is the printed replacement part for my skipping strap actuator.

    IMG_2223.JPG

    It was not an easy change, but all went good. At least, I did not screw that one up.

    IMG_2224.JPG

    I did an other run at Asseto Corsa with my new setting. I'm experimenting with filters. It's not bad. Heave was really good. But I am missing power. It's true that the main gain is only at 0.5. I will try it a bit stronger.

    setting.jpg

    But I am sick, as my girlfriend. The runs will be short.

    Next will be to set up everything for Elite Dangerous.
  4. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    whats the epoxy for?
  5. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    A future platform made out of carbon fiber tubes..
  6. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    ok cool... hey pierre. i need your help!

    i decided to go DIY linear actuator, following wannabeflyer and sixdegreesofflight.... im start to order parts.. but i see they have used 20x60.. six degrees order 1000mm length. looks like he had to have them cut.. im trying to find the length.. i edited a photo of yours.. can you please tell me how long? from wannabeflyer's photo, i guess estimate 500mm.. but i just want to be sure!

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
  7. Joshua Lopez

    Joshua Lopez Cool!

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    Greatjob on the tutorial bro!
  8. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Thanks, I guess if you are talking to me. Cause I never consider that I had done a tutorial. I just shared my continuous adventure in the 6dof construction (and now calibration).

    It is a 500 mm 8-10 mm carbon tube. I ordered them like that. I think the like might still be on the first post. But if you want to have insert (for m6 screw), you better use 12-10 tubes. My insert had to be modified by a professional metal milling to fit, because the exterior size is about 9 mm.
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  9. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    I did another run with Asseto Corsa. It was cool, but not yet satisfying. So, I wanted to take a break from calibration and decided to prepare the rig for flight.

    I start to understand SilentChill with a rig made of wood. You can iterate your first bad design. Here, only one side done.

    IMG_2227.JPG

    I'm still thinking about ways to put the wheel and the shifter so I can still enter the rig easily. But I am to tired tonight to keep on. This is what I have so far.

    IMG_2228.JPG

    See ya next week!
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  10. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    wow.. keep going!
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2019
  11. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    WOOWOWOOW
    have to make sure this doesnt happen to me!

    i had this question...
    i was going to order the carbon tubes

    i noticed everyone had went for 25mm OD and 23mm ID..

    i was thinking of going for 20mm ID for strength...
    but how do you attach the tube ?
    the ball screw part says it has a 28mm diameter. i was following your post #160 with the hocky puck..lol i still couldnt tell how you solve the attaching the carbon tube to the ball screw...

    but do you think ill have problems with a 25mmOD and 20mm ID tube?
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2019
  12. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    I don't think you'll have a problem with the 25-20. The way to attach it was to glue it to a printed part. This was my first try. You can see the tube inside the parts. I made it bigger so I could glue the other size tube. Then, you can see the 6 holes on each side to attache it to the ball screw. I run a little rode all the way through the part to make it stronger. This is how I did it.

    IMG_1927.JPG

    6 DOF from scratch

    Final part.

    IMG_1948.JPG

    6 DOF from scratch
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  13. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    There must be a tutorial somewhere around here to show us mortal how to do a combine video of the rig, the VR view and possible telemety datas?
    Time to ramp up my demo video.
  14. pmvcda

    pmvcda aka FlyPT

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    OBS Studio: https://obsproject.com/

    For me the simplest solution, capture screen and cameras at the same time and compose how you want.
    No need for post processing (maybe some cutting)
    Windows are treated as sources, so you can insert VR

    See here:
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  15. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    What he said ^^^^^ beat me to it
  16. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    wow.. amazing.... so this method is working well!
    genius!
  17. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Thanks @pmvcda , and congradulation on beating @SilentChill to it. I will try it this weekend, if I have time. I have a new version of Hexapod Interface to try this weekend. :)

    I would not call it genius, but it woks. Like I said before, I put the 28-25 into the 30-28, but not all the way through, since we need space to insert the ball screw later (size 28 mm). Then, the 25-23 into the 28-25. All fit and align nicely and force the main shaft to stay straight. There is no puck anymore (R.I.P.).

    IMG_1569.JPG

    In my printed part, I've made the hole for the size of the bigger tube (size 30) and left a little edge at the top (size 25) that only let the 25-23 tube pass. It's plastic, so the little edge is not strong at all. This is why the screws pass all the way through the plastic part and the nuts over that little edge to give it strengh and keep everything in place. I glue the plastic over the carbon tube for extra support, and the rods also pass in the ball srew. This is how I hold it all together. I hope I did not make my explaination too complex. It's hard to describe in words.

    IMG_2074.JPG

    In the last picture, you can see that one of my 30-28 tube is a bit too short. But it was not enought to jeopardize the structure.
  18. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    how high is your adapter?
    i assume thats why you have the epoxy...
    i wish there was a mechanical way to fasten the carbon tube to the ball sleeve.
    looks like epoxy is the most feasible way to connect, but i worry there is not enough surface area to make a tight bond.
    i sort of wished i went the 30mm OD/28mm ID x 500mm tube route..

    i like how you made the wheel guides. im still thinking about how to attach. do you plan to share ur 3d print? :) :)

    would be great if there was an aluminum structure like your adapter!
  19. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My 3d prints are not here. I'll do it this weekend. I basically use the lenght of the ball screw we attache to, double it up, so the main shaft has the same amount of support.

    I made a little drawing that tries to show the lateral cut of this setup. I omited the little U part that goes under the ball screw.

    Hope it helps.

    cut.jpeg
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  20. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    no it is clear. thank you so much. so basically 40mm (ball screw) plus 40mm (500mm tube) equals 80mm is your epoxy adhesion surface area...

    im debating to use the epoxy solution or go 30mm aluminum tube and weld..
    some of my parts came in. 500mm looks so small! i find it hard to believe compared to the youtube videos.
    hey i like to ask what the distance that the ball screw travels between hitting your limit switches?