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6 DOF from scratch

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Pierre Lalancette, Dec 18, 2016.

  1. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Since I can't commit to a design for the base, I'm preparing all possible option to help me make a decision. So I printed @Hoddem flange for a U joint.

    IMG_1707.JPG

    The mess behind the part is the 2 caps that did not stick to the bed and almost destroyed my print. My printer did not like the coarse layers thickness.

    IMG_1708.JPG

    So I printed them back with a thickness of 0.1, and all went fine. Fine, you get it? Less coarse... Okay, forget it.

    IMG_1709.JPG

    It may look small, but that thing is huge! (11.5 cm diameter) I was wondering if I had done something wrong with the size, when I saw a Bud Light on @Hoddem picture (I wonder wath it was doing there?) and by comparison, it looks the right size, and quite strong, even at only 20% fill.

    IMG_1710.JPG

    I redesign the little gear also in Fusion. It woks well and will be easier to attach to the strap's gear.
    • Like Like x 2
  2. My.stAr

    My.stAr Active Member

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    This is definetly a better joint that yours from post #243!!! :thumbs The forces there are suboptimal because you fix it to the bottom frame from the side but the main force comes from the top. If you take strong enough material it would work. But this u-joint is way better ;)
    So if you still don't know what to build, take this Joint:cool: Or you can drill a hole through your base plate, but the steelrod inside and test what happens, if you bring some load on it. And than use the u-joint from hoddem :rolleyes:
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2017
  3. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    You are right @My.stAr . I gave up my idea from post #243. I will probably use this joint. It is just that I would like to have it print in ABS instead of PLA, for safety reasons. But I am not ready/installed to print with ABS yet. Same thing for the gears, I would rater have them printed in ABS. But to test this first Actuator, PLA will do for now.

    And I still need to attache this UJoint to my Actuator. Damn, I am bad with mechanics.
  4. mariano68

    mariano68 Active Member

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  5. Hoddem

    Hoddem Well-Known Member

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    Hey @Pierre Lalancette, Nice work on the ujoint. I think you will find that even in PLA it is extremely strong, especially with the ubolts installed. One thing to consider though, the orientation that you printed the caps is not Ideal. If you think about how the stress will be applied to the caps its likely that they will split from the pressure. I printed mine in the same orientation that they are installed so that I have a lot of layers of plastic running perpindicular to the u bolt.

    upload_2017-10-24_8-46-7.png

    upload_2017-10-24_8-46-22.png

    also, to address the bud light in some of my pictures. It's a method that a lot of people use to show realative scale, everyone knows about how large a beer bottle is so when you see something next to a beer bottle you get an idea of how large or small it is. Of course this could be a pop can or some other common object, but I use what I have and I always have a bud light near by when im working on projects.

    keep up the good work
    • Informative Informative x 1
  6. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Thanks for the tip @Hoddem . I checked to see what time a fine print at 100% would take: About 12h... Multiply by 6: 72h.
    That would be overkill, but still be easier for me than switching to ABS, and would probably be more than safe.
    I'm thinking about it... All the time... Can't make a decision.

    Oh! And the Bud Light bottle is only there for reference. Of course. :)
    • Funny Funny x 1
  7. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Sorry, I missed your post.
    I don't know why I do not go that way. I don't trust them somehow. I should order one at least to see if it's the thing I need. They look small to me, and I can't tell how big they are since there is no Bud Light in the picture.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  8. mariano68

    mariano68 Active Member

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    Both are for a 3/4 shaft (19mm diameter?) and as I read in amazon looking for the part number, total length is 9cm., so not that small, but as you said, you can give it a try.
  9. Hoddem

    Hoddem Well-Known Member

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    B605ACA0-4540-49FC-AE34-D7F921A151E8.jpeg Ask and you shall receive

    I explored this option too, it just didn’t sit right with me being that they are so small compared to the rest of my actuator. That is a 1” x 1” coupler. It would be plenty strong if you can mount it securely though.
    • Winner Winner x 3
    • Like Like x 1
  10. Hoddem

    Hoddem Well-Known Member

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    Oh ya, I paid $25 on eBay for that one and I can actually print my coupler for less.
  11. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    LOL :grin

    This is why I post so many questions on this forum. Most people have been down that road and have so much more experience than me.
    Effectively, they do not look that small. But like you said, my actuator are quite big and heavy. Also, I still need to find a way to secure them, when printing helps me to be a lazy simulator potato.
    Printing is still my preferred solution. Printing ABS would be awesome. I need to step up.
  12. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Damn! I ordered the spicers 1310 with no problems, but Lowe's don't deliver the u-bolt to Canada.
    This happens to me all the time. There is always a simple part that prove to be hard to find.
    There must be a equivalent part somewhere on Canadian's sole. Again, I'm failing to find it.
    Keep on looking. May have to get outside.:think
  13. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    A little update to show that I have not quit (yet) my build. This time it was not Christmas, but the Halloween!

    IMG_1723.JPG
    I got my spacers! And custom taxes that my girlfriend paid on delivery, so they were more expensive than expected. I could have get mad at myself, but decided to move on and try to learn from my (constant) mistakes.

    IMG_1724.JPG

    They are great, and they fit right into the 3D print. Unfortunately, the only U-bolt I found in 4 hardwares stores I visited were all the same size, and too big for the print. I have not much choice to adapt @Hoddem design with this new U-bolt and print again.

    IMG_1725.JPG

    But last weekend was a series of little incidents that put a hold on almost everything.

    First, our water heater when kaput, after 24 years of services. I was lucky enough that my girlfriend took care of it during the week. So all went back to normal, beside the money draw back. The real problem it caused was that the water heater is in my workshop room and I had to move everything to give space to the plummer. This weekend, was to move things back, but, not without a big clean up. What do I keep? What do I throw away? A natural selection that has to be done in those situation if you don't want to be overwhelm by junks in your working area. It takes time and it's still not finished yet.

    Last weekend was the conclusion of Pimax Kickstarter. It is surprising how I was captivated by that one. Done. Wait for the helmet now.

    Also, last weekend, we had big winds. Nothing compare to the damages of an hurricane, but still, some clean up was needed.

    IMG_1726.JPG IMG_1727.JPG IMG_1732.JPG IMG_1728.JPG IMG_1731.JPG

    As you can see, my patio needs to be rebuild. But that is another story.

    I bought cables for my PSU since they were not provided with it. Also, a panic button to be able to shut down the rig in case of emergency.

    IMG_1733.JPG

    So, no printing, no design, no real constructions. Just reception of goods, some shopping, and a lot of cleaning.
    • Like Like x 2
  14. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    I have found U-bolt that fits into my printed U-joint, but unfortunately, it was not long enough to be able to screw under the base. and with all my testing, I broke off a part of the joint.

    So, I redid the the design of the U-joint with bigger U-bolt, still base on @Hoddem design. I printed it, and it was great, until I tried both printed flange with a U-joint spicer. The bigger U-bolt gets in the way of the the other part and limits its movement.

    IMG_1734.JPG

    So, another fail. I'm getting good a design failing. My hope now is to change my design back to something similar to @Hoddem design. The only difference would be deeper holes for the U-bolt bolts, so I can screw them in, even with a shorter U-bolt.

    At least, I did my base.

    IMG_1735.JPG

    It's not perfect, ... It's better than that, it is done! Better Done that Perfect.

    IMG_1736.JPG

    And I still don't know how to attache the actuator to the U-join.
    • Like Like x 3
  15. llluis

    llluis Active Member Gold Contributor

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    Where did you get this from, here in Quebec? Black Friday arriving, maybe some good deals to catch!
  16. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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  17. mariano68

    mariano68 Active Member

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    I'm afraid the way it is actually, it's not possible without adding the other lateral and and a bottom, or you have to find a way to attach it from the side to the side of the base.
    ball-joint.jpg $_1.JPG
  18. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I am thinking about a half base at the bottom of the actuator, attached to the side of it, with two simple extrusion that would attach to the spicer. The goal is to keep it simple, with blocky design to make it out of aluminium block (and keep manufacturing cost as low as possible). It also needs to be easily unmountable (can we say that word?).

    I though about attach it from the side, and most people did not recommande it, as it would work sideway, were there is the less force in the structure. So, I gave it up.
  19. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Okay, the deal today was to assemble the gears box and make my actuator move. Nothing fancy, just have controlled movements. Then I would make a little video out of it and be proud. Would you believe me if I say that nothing went as planned?

    My actuator did work, but I did not make a video before it stopped... broken.

    Only a sad picture of the setup put to forced rest.

    IMG_1737.JPG

    "What happened" you ask?
    Simple, the SMC3 utility tool push the ball screw to the bottom until it broke the gear box.

    "Why did you not use limit switch", would you legitimately say?
    I did at the beginning. I soldered a lot of wires to set it to the power supply. Only to find out that my limit switch are open by default ant close on contact. I bought them before the PSU, that now I know, are looking for a closed circuit and will stop on a open one. I removed them all and hoped to be able to handle the actuator without any destruction. We all know now how it turned out. :(

    " There is limit values on SMC3 that stop motors when they go to far", do I hear in the echo of the night.
    I know, they were set, to the maximum 255. My problem is that my reducer was way to good and the potentiometer did not even get any close to the limit value. The 4 to 1 gearing is way to much for the distance traveled by the ball nut. I need to redesign it again... Back to square one.

    But that's not all. I tried all day to attach the strap gear to the 10mm reducing gear. Tried a glue, did not work. Tried another one, did not work either. Changed the design so they would assemble together. The print failed. Change the design once more and it worked. It was made to small, but I forced it in with kindness and a swinging hammer. The gear needs to be redesign again anyway.

    Here they are: 'Ungluable', unprintable, forcible, and the remain of the broken gearbox. I also found 3 bearing balls... From where are they coming from? That can't be good...

    IMG_1740.JPG

    At least, at the other end of the actuator, the nail axis support gear worked like a charm. I will adjust a few thing, but the base is good.

    IMG_1742.JPG

    So no video. My power supply was always tripping when I was tuning up the power. Like it was saying: "What are you thinking man? Asking that much power, with no helping capacitors, or even batteries."

    So I settled down to do a slow moving video of the actuator and switched the SMC3 utility to manual. It was right at the edge of the limit values. This is when I heard a big crack.

    I must be wanting that simulator badly, because usually, when things go that well, I stop fighting against bad karma and accept my defeat.
    • Optimistic Optimistic x 1
  20. mariano68

    mariano68 Active Member

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    I know the feeling...You're so close man... Don't give up!
    I don't know why you need the reduction box. I don't use one and my pots do all the travel without problems, if you are afraid on the long use, first use them, then see what happens.
    Oh! BTW, about how to attach your U joint... You can do the same I did, use the screws on the motor to fix both, the motor and the U joint, check yhis out:

    IMG_20171117_155038047.jpg IMG_20171117_194150975.jpg
    I changed the screws of the motor for screw rod.