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$450 Mige Direct Drive Wheel using MMOS and AASD

Discussion in 'DIY peripherals' started by Peacemaker105, May 6, 2020.

  1. Sieben

    Sieben Active Member

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    wannabeaflyer2
    Just take any wheel profile in a game of PCars, and apply the axis of the mmos wheel to it.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  2. sedesa tatasa

    sedesa tatasa Member

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    Yes
    Power consumption according to the torque being generated
  3. bdam

    bdam New Member

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    Great, thanks @sedesa tatasa, that makes sense of course, I just wanted to confirm before pulling the trigger. My main concern was the stops: would I be able to turn down/limit the torque/current in the AASD or is it going to blow a breaker every time I hit a stop.

    So I think I've decided to go with the 90ST-M04025. Since I'm going to be attaching/detaching it from my desk a smaller, lighter motor seems to make sense. Everyone I've seen using a 130ST based motor mentions turning down the force to 50% or below so a max of 12Nm seems plenty. @diggumwood @Datch @DJ_BLAZKOWICZ, you three are all using that same motor, can you confirm/deny that for me? Are you happy with the power, and more importantly, the fidelity/feel you get out of it?
  4. sedesa tatasa

    sedesa tatasa Member

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    @bdam
    Is it end stop?
    With mmos, you can set the end stop torque to 15%.
    The end stop is also generated by the torque command.
    All torque commands are can be restricted by PN189 (Analog torque instruction gain 1-300 %/V).
    For example, if the maximum command is 3.3v and PN189 = 10 is set, the torque will not exceed 33%.
  5. bdam

    bdam New Member

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    Right, the end stops. Thanks again for confirmation. So no matter how powerful the motor I can dial it down to live within the current/amperage I've got available. That's great news.

    I'm taking @Peacemaker105's $450 (USD) as a challenge of sorts (and I'm cheap) so it doesn't hurt that the 90ST-M04025 can be had for $100+ less than any of the 130ST motors. I've already got a G27 for the pedals and gears. I'm starting to look at the wheel itself ... wonder if I could non-destructively mount that G27 wheel on the motor and get the buttons working.
  6. sedesa tatasa

    sedesa tatasa Member

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    @bdam
    I noticed.
    Inrush current may be the problem.
    Large current that flows to charge the smoothing capacitor when the power is turned on.
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2020
  7. Peacemaker105

    Peacemaker105 Active Member Gold Contributor

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    If you are talking about the 10khz whine, then no not really haha. Some mention using EMI Filter but others say it makes no difference. It's something you'll have to learn to live with or soundproof away somehow. I have EMI filters but i think they're cheapish. i have a new larger unit to try out but i dont expect much difference. Turn your volume up in game :p
    • Like Like x 1
  8. vicborder

    vicborder Vicborder

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    the noise I mean is the constant beep that makes the AASD-15 without moving the wheel I with Zero torque, I figured it was normal, as soon as the Zero engine is running, I also have filters installed, thank you
  9. Peacemaker105

    Peacemaker105 Active Member Gold Contributor

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    If it's the noise coming from the AASD and NOT the motor then its the same 10khz noise i am talking about :) Some people say their systems don't have this noise.. i'm starting to think perhaps their ears just can't hear this certain frequency haha.
    • Funny Funny x 1
  10. Peacemaker105

    Peacemaker105 Active Member Gold Contributor

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    That would require more work than needed to get the wheel and buttons to work than i'd waste my time on. the best thing about these motors is being able to hand a life size Rim on the motor and not worry about over stressing it! If you want buttons you can look into many button box systems whether arduino or blueHID there's plenty of options available for DIY. Have you got a 3d printer? Probably buy one of them with the money you've saved on this project and make your own :)
  11. Thanos

    Thanos Building the Future one AC Servo at a time... or 6

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    Better look for a wireless solution for the buttons like BlueHID... you never know if the wheel starts spinning in high speed hitting something on the road, wrapping the usb cable tight around the axle... remember these Direct Drive wheels have no physical end stops...
  12. bdam

    bdam New Member

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    Haha, yea, no 3D printer yet. I have enough friends who are head-over-heels with them that I figured I could bribe them with homebrew for a few bits (eg. the shaft adapter).

    My line of thinking is that any kind of button + wheel solution is going to be $200+ by the time everything's said and done. I'm using the pedal/shifter of my G27 anyways so it makes me look funny at that wheel wondering if I can repurpose it. There's a certain allure in my mind to a $500-ish non-destructive, mostly plug-n-play 12 Nm DD upgrade project for any G25/27/29 out there. Maybe hook the Logitech buttons up to a BlueHID for wireless. Sigh, you're probably right though ... more work than it's worth ... mostly just thinking out loud.
  13. Thanos

    Thanos Building the Future one AC Servo at a time... or 6

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Its easy... use the TDD to connect the G27 pedals shifter. And use the BlueHID inside the g27 rim (wheel) to interface the existing buttons... the BlueHID comes also in a button cell battery version that will last long if its just for a few buttons...

    https://www.tindie.com/products/tronicgr/tdd-micro-direct-drive-wheel-controller/

    https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/u-hid-en/bluehid/
  14. vicborder

    vicborder Vicborder

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    almost perfection, depending on your engine, I leave you my settings, you can tune more:

    PN001:24


    PN002:0


    PN003:0


    PN018:0


    PN051:1500


    PN053:18


    PN079:002torque,007temper


    PN158:300


    PN159:-92


    PN188:1


    PN189:50


    PN190:-92


    PN191:1


    PN196:1


    PN197:1


    PN198:450


    PN199:2


    PN204:0


    PN207:500


    PN259:1


    5minuts play un game


    FN:007 t


    FN:008 s

    DAC 1k 1uf
  15. ajosesi

    ajosesi New Member

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    Hi, I am selling a TDD board from Thanos (direct drive ffb wheel) that I was planning on using, change of plans. I know a lot of you are waiting for availability so here I offer mine. I live in the Netherlands. if anybody interested contact me, cheers.
  16. karldink

    karldink New Member

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    PM’d you @ajosesi
  17. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    hi @Sieben Tried your tip and some progress made as i can at least now calibrate the 130ST Wheel but have problem with wheel Oscilation once the Simulation is Loaded, its stable in sesktop and withe MMOS utility , but hasle occurs once the simulation is run
    still needs more work on my part as i have not really set the MMOS setting for Optimum :) at this stage im looking for stable calibrated wheel , i have option to rejig the Pedals pf my Logitech g25 plug wiring to match g27 if need be to at least run those and wheel via TDD interface . Cheers for the tip
  18. sedesa tatasa

    sedesa tatasa Member

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  19. wannabeaflyer2

    wannabeaflyer2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi @sedesa tatasa Big Thanks for that tip about setting Min Force to 0 , that seems to have calmed down / removed that oscilation nicely and im now closer to a usable wheel setup , Crazy how one wrong parameter can cause so much grief ...Big relief Thanks to alll you guys here for the help greatfully recieved ..now i can move onto sorting out Pedals Hopefully Cheers :)
  20. JonBakhol

    JonBakhol Member Gold Contributor

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    Hi @Peacemaker105, have you tried it already with an 10,000 ppr (40,000cpr) encoder? If so, and it works okay, than I will order this right away. TIA

    Bakhol