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Tutorial 3D printed Quick-release

Discussion in 'DIY peripherals' started by RacingMat, Feb 13, 2015.

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  1. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    I'm using it with a direct wheel without any problem! and torque is high

    You have to use printing parameters which give much density (no honey comb) I suppose (I didn't print mine myself)
  2. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    Im going to print at .2 and use 100% infill. So shouldn't have any honeycomb. It will be a solid chunk of plastic. abs specifically.
    Thanks for getting back to me.
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  3. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    What is your 3D printer model?

    Please share some pictures of the result! It would please me very much :)
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  4. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    Flashforge Dreamer 3d and a CTC 3D Printer, Didnt turn out perfect but I forgot to level the bed....I dont like the way it looks at all but it fits perfect and the build is tight.[​IMG]
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2015
  5. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    Glad to hear the first trial fits perfectly!

    fuxqos2k.png
    maybe you could try Acetone to smooth the surface

  6. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    Yeh Ive done the acetone trick on a few things including slurry when I used to use it so i have a big tin. Ill probably use a bit of sanding paper first and then use the acetone. I dont always cook it, some times i just dunk it.
  7. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    Im also using this in a bit of a different manner. Im using a hose clame to hold it secure to the shaft. I am then attaching my NGR quick release to this printed piece.Its going to be somewhat tucked back so it wont be visible nor will it be removed with any level of frequency. I might modify the design at some point and add a longer shaft to this and then make another to be the quick release so I can have multiple wheels with a quick release system that I can 3d print at no/low cost.
  8. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    too complicated: sorry, I don't understand what you mean... I hope to see pictures to help me
  9. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    OK so the main shaft doesn't fit. Shaft is 22mm and your file appears to print at less for me. Do toy remember specs? I edited the stl and I'm reprinting now
  10. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    Weird... it should be only a little tight: use of sand paper should let you to have the exact adjusment you wish
  11. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    you woudl go through a stack of sandpaper to remove what happened wtih me. I even tried using a hammer and the part where it is split was so v'd out that I thoght it would snap so I took it back off. I made another adjustment to 23mm but forgot to go down and check it this morning on the printer. Getting some weird stuff going on when just these prints. Not sure if its the non-smooth model or what.
  12. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    So the print at 23mm fits nice and snug which is great since I wont be removing it. Attached is what I was talking about yesterday.

    [​IMG]
  13. ALMO

    ALMO New Member

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    So I tried this out with my new OpenSimWheel - Big Mige (30Nm) running off the Ioni Pro HC (so hits the full 30Nm peak).. This was the outcome for my 3D printed hub ($20AUD + $10 collar)

    I must say, it was extremely fun getting this to happen :) However, I will be now ordering a Q1R system.


    [Sigh, i cant post photos]
  14. ALMO

    ALMO New Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    • Winner Winner x 2
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  15. bsft

    bsft

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    whoops
  16. ALMO

    ALMO New Member

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    Was worth it - even with hindsight.

    For the smaller mige running with the normal Ioni/Pro to hit 10Nm continuous, this should do the job. It only started to crack at 14-15Nm - hence why im just going straight to metal now.

    Having said that, the feel of the OSW is odd. Doesnt feel natural to me, but that could be the cracking of the hub or tweaking of forces.

    It hit a very hard barrier at about 60deg left/right of center when turning - almost forcing the car to turn-in without my intervention. (steering ratio was set in MMoS to 400 -> 900 which didnt make a difference.)
    With only 15min of playtime, not really sure what to make of it. This was in a variety of cars (road + open wheel)
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  17. prodigy

    prodigy Burning revs

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    This particular part of the QR where it broke is a bit hollowed, maybe if it was printed 100% solid it would last better?
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  18. ALMO

    ALMO New Member

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    When printed, the thing was honeycombed completely? I assumed this was the design in the .stl file.

    Agreed that solid would provide better rigidity. I imagine cost would inflate by at least 100%. = ~$40-60AUD which is still a fair bit cheaper then the Q1R system.
    Having said that, once the hub is on the shaft, its not the easiest thing to remove from the shaft. Great for one wheel. Just a cheap alternative if utilising >1 wheel.
  19. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    Sorry to see this one broken... @ALMO
    3D printing is ruled by many parameters... and from one to another the result may vary very much

    STL files describe only the surface geometry of a three-dimensional object (hence the volume but not the inside!)
    the 3D printer uses a software to convert it and honeycomb it along to some parameters

    Yes, hollowed like this, it's too weak and definitely for 30N.m...
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  20. Cvetan Cvetanov

    Cvetan Cvetanov Member

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    Can someone explain different materials for 3d printing especially strong ones i am really interested with this.
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