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2DOF with experimental motors build

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by kopper, Dec 31, 2014.

  1. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR - The Next Generation Staff Member Moderator

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    Thanks @kopper.

    Here is a local link for fellow Aussies: http://www.digikey.com.au/product-search/en?KeyWords=A98357-ND&WT.z_header=search_go

    Edit - For Aussies Digi-Key shipping is worth more than the product, best look for an alternate supplier.
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    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015
  2. kopper

    kopper Member

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    Not my are of expertise either @noorbeast. I just know that if it is smoking it is not good! ;)
  3. kanuk

    kanuk If it ain't moving, it ain't simulating... Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, 3DOF, DC motor, Arduino, JRK
    @kopper @noorbeast

    Hello Gents.

    2 schools of theory fight this rating thing. There is / was a rule that as voltage load decreases current load increases and by that school of thought this plugs would be fine to 25 or so amps constant.
    However the other theory behind it is that an amp is an amp is an amp...
    Just to add confusion I am sure.
    However besides the fact that I am an engineer (majored in power and control, microprocessors)
    I have been an avid RC modeller for over 35 years. And with that I can tell you that 5mm pins can certainly handle 30-40 amp loads without any sort of degradation. In fact, the plugs we use with our electric vehicles (DEANS) are 8mm pins and are good for 80A constant with 400A surges. I cannot however stand testimony to the bodies of the plugs withstanding the heat generated. That will need to be a wait and see.
    And yes, if the other is rated @24A then its a winner!
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  4. kopper

    kopper Member

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    Good stuff @kanuk but the pin spacing is the 5mm not the pin size. If I am not mistaken the pin size (not spacing) on elec vehicles is 8mm. Quite a difference.

    I get where you are coming from though and have to agree that if a board with a hole large enough to accommodate a 1mm or so max size pin is rated at the amps that a JRK is capable of then there is some leeway. Sometimes the electrical math does not add up if you know what I mean.
    :thumbs
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  5. kanuk

    kanuk If it ain't moving, it ain't simulating... Gold Contributor

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    2DOF, 3DOF, DC motor, Arduino, JRK
    Ahh. My mistake!
    LOL
    Well, if the pin size is 8mm even better! That's exactly the precept @kopper
    The board itself lends itself to what it can withstand and thus we can use it as somewhat of a guideline. And no sir, the electrical math never adds up... ;)
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  6. kopper

    kopper Member

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    Well, we have motion! Still some tidying up to do but pics of where I am at with my sim project below (along with my test buddy!). I did not take any video since the motion is not quite where I would like it yet.

    I have been tuning on it (lot of work) and it is coming along ok. The motor levers are drilled at 45mm, 65mm, 85mm, and 105mm CTC. I started at 105mm (knew it was a lot) and the motion was great but motors would drop out with motor errors on JRK's. I fiddled with it for a while but eventually moved to the 65mm holes and it has been fine with just a couple of errors which I never felt in operation.

    I have struggled a little with the Tuning Center because it will not always let my start "capture" and/or "save settings" like I think it is supposed to be then sometimes works just fine. I have not figured out what I am doing wrong there. I have taught my self to write the captured values down just in case. Slower but works.

    The JRKs seem to be getting quite warm - especially when I had the levers on the 105mm hole. I have cheap low output 40mm fans on them right now and funnels I machined out of delrin which direct all the air to the heatsinks I used on the JRKs. I ordered some MUCH greater output fans that I am sure will solve the issue. They will be louder but I do not think will be heard over game sounds. There is a good chance I may try something with more power so I can go back to the 105mm CTC. I really like the way that felt. I do have some arduinos and a pair of moto monsters. Might even give a Sabertooth a try.

    I have a few things to "fine tune" on the rig. I'm also going to redo alum part of steering bracket. I have to use all the adjustment I built in to move wheel as far forward as it will go to be comfortable. I thought I would like it close like I do in my real race car but it just doesn't feel right for some reason.

    I cannot see the tach/shift lights on screen on some of the cars with where I have been setting FOV so I think one of the external type projects may be in order (now why I know why so many of you do that!). Have no idea which direction to head with that with all the great ideas out there. I do have a spare Autometer tach though so maybe just set that up somehow. I caught the thread on that here recently. Not sure which games put out what as far as that goes but will read up on it.

    Can't thank everyone here enough for all the tips, tricks, and guidance I have picked up the past couple months. I read almost every single post made on this forum and there is some really great stuff. Now you all have me looking at real pedal type setups, high dollar direct drive steering, shifters, etc. Like @noorbeast mentioned earlier in this thread - it never ends. All fun!

    I'll do my best to contribute more. If anybody has any questions on my build so far or suggestions I would love to hear from you.

    Attached Files:

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    Last edited: Feb 23, 2015
  7. bsft

    bsft

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    Whats the specs on the motors?
    Whats the setting on the JRK utility tabs for each motor?
    I am doubtful a 105 CTC lever will be solving a problem.
  8. kopper

    kopper Member

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    I cannot get solid specs on the motors. The service manual for the car they fit says they can pull up to 58A and the ratio is about 17:1 - not ideal. They have a lot of power though. I have not measured RPM. Switching them out for something more commonly used by others on this forum is not out of the question.

    I'm not too worried about JRK settings. I've experimented and read enough that I am comfortable with my ability to tune them. You can only ask so much out of them though. They are amazing little critters however! I'll try to remember to get a shot of the current settings in case I am indeed missing something though.

    I'm not really trying to solve a problem with 105 CTC - just like the way it feels better. If I can make it work great. If not, no biggie. I do still have plenty of Tuning Center work to do so will spend more time on that before anything else.
  9. bsft

    bsft

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    @kopper , 17:1 boxes depending on RPM of motors and a 105 CTC lever can translate to some around 800mm per linear second travel. Which is fast, but as the cost of torque.
    Reason I ask to see Utility tabs is to advise if anything can be adjusted. There may be a PID or motor power settings that could be adjusted.
    You can work the tuning centre all you like, but if you dont have JRK settings right, you are wasting your time.
    Its like putting a new carburettor on a worn car engine, you can tune the carby all you like, but it doesnt fix the problem.
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