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2DOF Seatmover - a long way to go

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Knauba, Jan 10, 2017.

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  1. Knauba

    Knauba New Member

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    After reading a lot here already and looking through all the very nicely described and illustrated simulator builds, I said to myself: "How hard can it be?" and made an order last week:

    • 2x 24V DC Motor 40W 0-260U/min - 36,49 €
    • Pololu Dual VNH5019 - 46,94 €
    • Uno R3 ATmega328P Board ATmega16U2 - 8,99 €
    • HP DL380 G4 575W DPS-600PB B - 14,99 €
    • B10K 10K linear Potentiometer 5 Pack - 6,52 €

    Now the parts are arriving one by one and today I've got my motors. As I wanted to save money where I could, I looked around, to find a cheap one that is still capable of lifting my 70ish kg on my approximately 30-40 kg wooden seat construction (build not started yet). Here is what I wanted to give a try: 24V DC, 210 rpm (using 24V) 40 W, 30Nm

    Bildschirmfoto 2017-01-10 um 21.40.35.png


    As I read in multiple posts about short circuits concerning motors using the case as ground I opened one of them, to have a look inside. What a beauty :)

    Bildschirmfoto 2017-01-10 um 21.46.40.png

    The black cable is soldered directly to the coil without touching the case, so this should be fine without further tweaking:

    Bildschirmfoto 2017-01-10 um 21.51.28.png

    However, what I need to fiddle out now is, how to connect the rod. As the thread is only a M4, using this directly for the connection doesn't sound as a very good idea.

    Bildschirmfoto 2017-01-10 um 21.55.57.png

    so long...
  2. Ads Master

    Ads Master

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  3. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    Nice project!!

    sorry, but 40W motors will never give you 30Nm... your torque specs are probably not acurate saddly
    here some actual examples from https://simukit.com/ :
    - DC moteur 120W 24V 40rpm 25Nm
    - DC Moteur 350w 60 rpm 40Nm​

    If you look for rod connection, here are some ideas: :)
    742136crank2.jpg
    323500moyeublocageelastique14470pmod1ganter.jpg
    877779moyeudeserrageetmanivelleRacingMat.png

    yours
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  4. Knauba

    Knauba New Member

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    Thanks for your reply :)

    So the motors are most probably not strong enough, to give a good performance, right? I mean, as they are the ones I've got, I will give them a try anyways. And if they are completely useless, I can still modify my bbq with them

    However, according the rods connection, I thank you very much for the input. I was thinking the complete other way arroung, in somehow using the thread instead of the shaft.
  5. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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  6. Stealthelius

    Stealthelius Member

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    These are a very good motor @Knauba. I have one question for you. Are noisy the motors?
    I have a pairs of classic 12V wiper motors and they are too noisy.
  7. Knauba

    Knauba New Member

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    @Stealthelius as @RacingMat already pointed out, don't let the figures fool you ;). I haven't tested the motors yet. But I will try and post a video as soon as I did.
  8. Knauba

    Knauba New Member

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    Small update on the build and a quick question on the rod connection. It's really hard to find those adjustable bike cranks here in Germany. All cranks I've found have a fixed size... -_-

    That second picture you attached to your first post, @RacingMat, what exactly is this?

    Here is my U-Joint, it's from a Belarus MTS Fortschritt ZT.
    Bildschirmfoto 2017-01-13 um 21.23.54.png

    I also bought an old Recaro which I attached to it's wooden base.
    Bildschirmfoto 2017-01-13 um 21.24.19.png

    I'm thinking about using only the joint as the distance between the bottom base and the seat. This would give me enough room to additionally attach Roles underneath (my driving wheel is quite low). Although I'm a bit afraid to roll away, under heavy breaking. Has anyone experience with rolling seatmovers?
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    Last edited: Jan 14, 2017 at 22:06
  9. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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  10. Knauba

    Knauba New Member

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    According the U-Joint, I looked around quite some time to find one which I can use as is, as I don't have experience in welding nor a welder at my disposal. If someone is desperately looking for one, just PM me. They came in a pack of seven ;)

    Thanks for the explanation @RacingMat. I decided now to try and cut an external thread directly into the motor shaft. If this doesn't work out, I will go with a coupling and try to find someone for the welding.
  11. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    ok!
    but I would say that motor shafts have a surface treatment such as thermal tempering
    that would prevent you to thread it with standard tools

    keep us informed :)
  12. Knauba

    Knauba New Member

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    While waiting for the thread cutter box, and a thicker cable to connect my PSU, I attached the U-Joint.

    To find the balance point I followed the instructions here: https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...-of-gravity-to-balance-a-motion-simulator.55/ Afterwards I attached the Joint temporarily with wood screws to get a feeling of how well I hit the point.

    Bildschirmfoto 2017-01-16 um 22.18.31.png

    I moved the joint back just some mm for the final attachment, but it had a big impact on the overall balance.

    Bildschirmfoto 2017-01-16 um 22.18.44.png
  13. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR - The Next Generation SimTools 2.0 Beta Tester

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    That may be true of some but not all, the 25:1, 50:1 and 60:1 wormdrive gearboxes commonly used by DIY builders are not hardened.

    The gearboxes pictured have a hole in the end so it would be worth seeing if a thread can be cut by hand with a tap tool.
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